KawisakiRider
Active VIP Member
Anytime I'm home send me a pm, I've been know to enjoy a beer from time to time.
Arff, any reason they aren't using tyvec under the siding? Who is the siding company, I could use a few more quotes.
Trades are still too busy, hard to get people to return calls or show up when they say they will. Still getting quotes to fix the original framers screw ups. Not sure how they build houses for a living, maybe the big companies don't notice the floor joists are unlevel by 7/16th of an inch over 4 feet and windows are out by 5 feet!!!!
Looks like I might have to pull all the floor trusses next week myself and fix.
Retodd just wondering if you priced out the infloor heat stuff. I am looking around right now for my place, just wondering where you found the best price at. Thanks :d
Retodd just wondering if you priced out the infloor heat stuff. I am looking around right now for my place, just wondering where you found the best price at. Thanks :d
I found to have the best price around Edmonton. You can find lots of DIY kits online but who knows what you're going to end up with, kinda hard to go back and fix it later.
crazy, who dug your basement? that hoe looks familiar
I'm an big DYI'er but I'm not too sure that 2200 square feet of in slab hot water heating is some thing I'd ever take on...to your point...one chance at it. The zone length and pattern calculations are usually done by the manufacture's engineers as done in this case.
I hope it's not too hard, it's one of the projects I'm doing on my build. I did it on my garage, and it wasn't that bad. Zoning already layed out in hydronics design.:d
I hope it's not too hard, it's one of the projects I'm doing on my build. I did it on my garage, and it wasn't that bad. Zoning already layed out in hydronics design.:d
Yeah same here. I'll do all the grunt work and let the pro's tie it all in. I don't see the need to pay $80/hr for a plumber to lay out rigid foam and pex.
Its very simple, on the outside edges go closer together say 6" then the rest are 12" apart. As far as zones if you have a rough idea what your doing for rooms lay them out that way. Try and have each loop similiar in length as that will produce more even heat.
Other small things .... once you finished connecting everything be sure to pressure test for a couple days to ensure no leaks!!
I also put a hose bib on one of the intake manifolds to make adding glycol to the system easy. Also afterwards it can take a little adjustment to get the psi right by adding more water. Should run about 7 - 10 psi.
It was Kai, Big Sky Excavating. He does a lot of residential work in Stony Plain area.
Mine is running low then... i thought between 3-7 PSI. I have to check when i get home. All my piping was put in by a plumber as i was out of town but i tied it all in myself with alittle help of the net. Pretty easy i thought.