Clutching for 2700 engagement speed is Mint (for most people)

Dynamo^Joe

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Start engine
Slowly rev engine up to you see the slide sheave touch the drive belt. The slide sheave should touch the drive belt at 2700 rpms. The sheave ever so gently pushes on the belt till you see around 28~2900 and the sled starts to move.
…should be around there, depends on how grippy the skis are engaging the concrete.
With 250 pound rider, the sled moves at 2900, about 100 rpms more to move the sled with the rider on it.

Tree riding, low rpms at part throttle. More confident to "stop". Hmm, I know I can stop with this setup. Think, and go again. Before, had to keep moving because I know if I stop, I probably ain't goin again. Getting unstuck with the ol' "push your helmet on the riser bar" actually works to push the sled ahead 6 inches, hahaha...and then re-set and do it again, push your helmet on the riser bar, gently pressing throttle and move another 6 inches. And a few more times, now I gots me a runway to go back and forth to pin and wiggle it out of stuck.

I’ll be doing a video to show the difference between the 903, 994, 951 ramps.
Here is 965 ramps.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8MjuqGnnsPM
 

JungleJim

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Thanks for sharing your information on clutching! Can't wait to receive your clutch kit I ordered and see the difference on my Turbo Freeride 165
 

pete gads

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Ran This kit on my 19 and now on my 20 expert 165. I really like in, engages low so in deep snow you don't spin down right away, shifts nice and hold rpm well, down hill braking work good at about 3500 rpm. easy to just weight for rpm.
 

Heavybrewster

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I found when i rode my 2020.5 that the backshift is pretty harsh, almost throwing me over the handlebars several times. Actually hurt my knee when i let off the throttle one time. Does this clutching help with that?
 
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