greenthumb
Active VIP Member
These are off my Buddy Tim's 2019 M8000.
So Jerry is going to Magnaflux it and let him know.
Magnaflux does not work with aluminum. You need to use a penetrating dye method. It's often not as definitive.
These are off my Buddy Tim's 2019 M8000.
So Jerry is going to Magnaflux it and let him know.
Magnaflux does not work with aluminum. You need to use a penetrating dye method. It's often not as definitive.
Interesting theory. That's the moveable sheave however. I may have to order the alignment bar to check that out though.I have seen this before and its usually caused by an alignment issue, the cracks develop on the stationary sheave of the clutch(engine side) because the heat from the engine and the belt scrub, in which you have(black rubber marking) over heats the area the cracks develop.
Make sure your alignment is correct.
I have also seen this by timid operators, essentially riding slightly off engagement a lot before really engaging the clutch. If that's the case you might need to recalibrate the clutch for her. I found the best cure was regear to a lower ratio if that's the case.
Interesting theory. That's the moveable sheave however. I may have to order the alignment bar to check that out though.
She is definitely a timid rider. Will gearing make that much of a difference?
Also, I threw my freshly cleaned clutches on her machine yesterday, and gave it enough throttle to pull ahead about a foot in my shed before I realized I didn't release the parking brake after torquing the secondary. There's a matching black mark on the primary now. So it seems it doesn't take very much?
I wonder if gearing down in general wouldn't be a bad idea. As it is these sleds will go way faster than I need to go on flat ground for track integrity. Would gearing down increase performance even for a more aggressive rider?I have had a few over the years even with the older Suzuki do the same. Usually on the none moving side but i would think that the effect would be the same on the moveable side.
They required replacing the sheave. What i found in common was the belt deflection was too tight and some alignment were off.
Gearing down for a timid rider works well, it reduces the stress on the clutch and belt when a rider is more tended to feather the throttle then just getting on it.
I wonder if gearing down in general wouldn't be a bad idea. As it is these sleds will go way faster than I need to go on flat ground for track integrity. Would gearing down increase performance even for a more aggressive rider?
These are off my Buddy Tim's 2019 M8000.
He came with me to drop mine off at Central Sled and cycle today. And we were going to pick his up (seeing it was my bill to pay on his).
Before we loaded his up we figured lets check the clutch. As mine gernaded.
We aren't sure if these are casting marks or cracks.
So Jerry is going to Magnaflux it and let him know.
I hope Cat is good and honors us unfortunate riders that have clutch issues, with or without warranty.
Where did you get that balanced, and what was the cost?:.......
Where did you get that balanced, and what was the cost?
Where did you get that balanced, and what was the cost?
Can you repost that link in English? I don’t have crapatalk.Clutch Balancing Shop
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/to...ead.php?t=124311&share_type=t&link_source=app
I have the same ZRP cover on my clutch, here’s the thread that should have all the info you need.
Can you repost that link in English? I don’t have crapatalk.