1994 PHAZER 2 LE PROJECT

NoBrakes!

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It’s coming together! I got the hood mounted again and reinforced with some flat aluminum. Nose cone should be here this week and then some minor pipe repairs…
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Give it to me straight… can a guy cut this bend out of the pipe, and patch it? The bottom half is fine, it’s the top half.

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It could be done. But why not look for a Bender or Aaen pipe.
100% looking but also trying not to spend a bunch. Honestly would put a stock pipe on for now to get it running and on the snow
 

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yea that will be the next task. get it red? Ill have to make some bungs for the ends...
 

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I ordered some 7 tooth drivers and I have a used 1-1/4" ripsaw track for it too... lots of time before November 23!
 

pipes

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I’ll give my buddy a call tonight and ask him if he still has that 92 Phaser II that I sold him. I sold it to him with the Aaen pipe and threw in the Stock pipe. Maybe can swing a deal with him.
 

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I’ll give my buddy a call tonight and ask him if he still has that 92 Phaser II that I sold him. I sold it to him with the Aaen pipe and threw in the Stock pipe. Maybe can swing a deal with him.
Thank you!
 

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I had a buddy successfully repair the stock pipe and I warmed the sled up, on a stand with the track off the ground, it still only revs to 5100rpm….

Compression test and go from there…
 

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Sitting at work wondering if the choke cable setting could make it so fat it won’t rev out? The machine responds to the choke though…
 

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Sitting at work wondering if the choke cable setting could make it so fat it won’t rev out? The machine responds to the choke though…
They can hang open just a little, spray some brake clean down the choke circuit and make sure they seal. If they don't remove the choke cable and check again, maybe the cable is dragging. I am not sure if the choke plungers on that year have the rubber seat surface or the rubber o-ring in the middle of the plunger, if it does they are likely toast. Those carbs may also have had a rubber plug in the one circuit in the carb bowl next to the main jet circuit, are they there?
 

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They can hang open just a little, spray some brake clean down the choke circuit and make sure they seal. If they don't remove the choke cable and check again, maybe the cable is dragging. I am not sure if the choke plungers on that year have the rubber seat surface or the rubber o-ring in the middle of the plunger, if it does they are likely toast. Those carbs may also have had a rubber plug in the one circuit in the carb bowl next to the main jet circuit, are they there?
No joke, I was waiting for your input/opinion.

I want to say it has the rubber surface plungers not o rings and they were still soft and flat when I looked last. I did put the black rubber plugs in the right spots but I am going to have to confirm that again...

Any tips to adjusting the chokes correctly?
 

Clode

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No joke, I was waiting for your input/opinion.

I want to say it has the rubber surface plungers not o rings and they were still soft and flat when I looked last. I did put the black rubber plugs in the right spots but I am going to have to confirm that again...

Any tips to adjusting the chokes correctly?
To adjust the cable back off the adjusters at the carb plungers and at the choke lever there should be some free play. The free play is checked when the choke is in the off position and you lightly pull out on the piece that the lever attaches to. Do not flip the choke lever at all, leave it in the off position. With the choke adjuster nuts backed off you should be able to pull this out quite a bit until resistance is felt. That resistance is the plunger starting to lift and the spring above the plunger compressing. You only want to be able to pull the cable out to about 2-3mm of free play. I will adjust one at a time, you will be able to feel the reduced free play as you go. When I feel the change initially I stop and adjust the other side until I feel it starting to take up some free play. Then adjust both slowly until the 2-3mm is achieved. I then confirm the choke operation with fluid at the closed position.
 

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Are the TORS wires still plugged in? These are yamahas throttle safety switch. They cause lots of issues.
 
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