Low Budget Back Up Sled Build Up

[Modman]

looking good modman, once i finish school and start my apprentis for HD mechanics, i want to build a sled right from scratch and you have giving me alot of ideas, thank you for this build and information

Thanks man!! knowing that it's helping someone is always good motivation. I appreciate the kind words.

 

[gotboost]

nice job there mod man didnt know u were building a t cat too my t cat grass dragger is comming alone to cant wait to finish it what tunnel did u use

 

[Modman]

nice job there mod man didnt know u were building a t cat too my t cat grass dragger is comming alone to cant wait to finish it what tunnel did u use

Tunnel is just the stock tunnel with the extension riveted on. Need to do a little buffing on it to clean it up but there was nothing wrong with the stock one so I re-used it.

 

[ss_badaz]

Great post Modman! Looking sweet. Plenty of good info on this build, ya a few guy’s I know decided to put there money into either mods or picking up an older sled this year it’s amazing what a little bit of coin you can do with them and somewhat over looked at the power and capabilities you can gain from them.
We have to hook up for a ride down in the Kootenays and see this for myself.

 

[Modman]

Motor is in and buttoned up. Fit all the coolant lines and changed electrical. Made a coolant drain for the bottom of the motor at the air trap (pic #1). Line on the left is the check valve and air trap bleed for the coolant system, clear line on the right is for a ball valve to allow me to remotely drain the system instead of trying to suck it out from the top down from within the filler neck area.

Painted the pipes and fixed some dents in them. Tore apart and cleaned up carbs, set all cables and fixed broken choke lever.

Welded steering post, more pics and update on that tomorrow.

Fixed busted handwarmer and tied up all wiring, put dielectric grease on all contacts. Checked for spark in motor, all cylinders sparking good.

Pic #2 is with the seat sitting on it, still have to tighten it down and suck it into the tank, but you get the idea. Have to make a plate for the back of the seat in trunk area. Seat is off an 08 M8 with the tipped up tunnel.

Fab and install gas rack and snowflap, install front plastic and make a mesh hood for it and I'm done. Hope to have it all done, except mesh hood by this weekend.

Will update more tomorrow, gotta get out to the garage and get some things done!!!

 

[Thunderguy BOOSTED]

Motor is in and buttoned up. Fit all the coolant lines and changed electrical. Made a coolant drain for the bottom of the motor at the air trap (pic #1). Line on the left is the check valve and air trap bleed for the coolant system, clear line on the right is for a ball valve to allow me to remotely drain the system instead of trying to suck it out from the top down from within the filler neck area.

Painted the pipes and fixed some dents in them. Tore apart and cleaned up carbs, set all cables and fixed broken choke lever.

Welded steering post, more pics and update on that tomorrow.

Fixed busted handwarmer and tied up all wiring, put dielectric grease on all contacts. Checked for spark in motor, all cylinders sparking good.

Pic #2 is with the seat sitting on it, still have to tighten it down and suck it into the tank, but you get the idea. Have to make a plate for the back of the seat in trunk area. Seat is off an 08 M8 with the tipped up tunnel.

Fab and install gas rack and snowflap, install front plastic and make a mesh hood for it and I'm done. Hope to have it all done, except mesh hood by this weekend.

Will update more tomorrow, gotta get out to the garage and get some things done!!!

looking go man!~! Your just as far behind as iam!! LOL!!

 

[note]

motor is in and buttoned up. Fit all the coolant lines and changed electrical. Made a coolant drain for the bottom of the motor at the air trap (pic #1). Line on the left is the check valve and air trap bleed for the coolant system, clear line on the right is for a ball valve to allow me to remotely drain the system instead of trying to suck it out from the top down from within the filler neck area.

Painted the pipes and fixed some dents in them. Tore apart and cleaned up carbs, set all cables and fixed broken choke lever.

Welded steering post, more pics and update on that tomorrow.

Fixed busted handwarmer and tied up all wiring, put dielectric grease on all contacts. Checked for spark in motor, all cylinders sparking good.

Pic #2 is with the seat sitting on it, still have to tighten it down and suck it into the tank, but you get the idea. Have to make a plate for the back of the seat in trunk area. Seat is off an 08 m8 with the tipped up tunnel.

Fab and install gas rack and snowflap, install front plastic and make a mesh hood for it and i'm done. Hope to have it all done, except mesh hood by this weekend.

Will update more tomorrow, gotta get out to the garage and get some things done!!! :d

i wish i could do this!!! Thanks you have insperd me!

 

[raceu4it]

is that your block heater plug-in hanging under the bulkhead,:d would make it easier to pull over that bad boy.

 

[Thunderguy BOOSTED]

what year is that bulk head?? (my dad wants to know)

 

[powerteker]

is that your block heater plug-in hanging under the bulkhead,:d would make it easier to pull over that bad boy.

I had one on 97 summit when I was a kid sled would get purty hard to start in -25-30. plug it in pull it over like u wer just runnin it.

 

[shawnmcgr]

You would probably be making better progress if your buddies weren't over drinking your beer asking dumb questions, eh!

If you don't make it this weekend we can always hit cataract for a little test & tune.

 

[Modman]

Update:

I gave my sled some CPR ("Cord Pulling Resuscitation") this weekend and its now alive and kicking. Fire up really nice, 4th pull and she was idling a little high, so I dropped the slides with the throttle cable adjustment (I don't use the idle screw).

Haven't been going to crazy with it lately (XMAS stuff you know...) but some recent work was finish mounting everything and sync the carbs, finished up the wiring, had to make a new ground from the motor to the frame, mounted all fuel lines and fired it up. Had an air lock in the cooling system that necessitated pulling the lowest hose (that's why the bellypan is still off in the video), seems good now and coolers got hot so circulation seems good.

Tensioned chain and aligned gears, capped and filled chaincase with fluid.

Final mounted rear axle, aligned track and adjusted track tension.

Cleaned and played with secondary clutch. Finished painting pipes - here's where I'll insert a learning tidbit - Pipes. Painting pipes. Like most painting projects, it comes down to the prep. I always sandblast my pipes, then a wipe down with alcohol about 30 mins before painting. Sandblast as late as possible before painting them so that they don't have time to rust on you. A couple days ahead of time is OK if you're going to keep them in the garage or a cool, non-humid location, but ideally, sandblasting would happen the day before or the day of painting. I let them air dry after wiping with alcohol and then paint them with stove paint. You can get it at any BBQ store, DON'T use the "high heat" VHT crap from Canadian Tire, its junk IMO. The stove paint comes in flat or gloss black, and will easily stand up to sled exhaust temps. About $10 a can. I use "Stove Paint Black" comes in a can with flames on the side. Stands up really well, I get it at BBQ's Galore here in Calgary. Probably works good on the BBQ too but I've never used it for that!!

Other items completed:

Cleaned up the tunnel a little. Replaced one handwarmer.

The back of the new seat tips up a little off the tunnel (1/2" gap) and so I had to make a plate to fit under the compartment at the back so that nothing would slide out during riding. (see pic)

Sorry, no new photos right now, will get some more this week.

There's the vid of it running and a little thank you for some of the guys that - there will be a vid of it on the snow hopefully this weekend. 29th for sure

Will try and add link again later - not sure why it didn't work here but we will give youtube some time to process and try again. Update:

I gave my sled some CPR ("Cord Pulling Resuscitation") this weekend and its now alive and kicking (see attached vid). Fire up really nice, 4th pull and she was idling a little high, so I dropped the slides with the throttle cable adjustment (I don't use the idle screw).

Haven't been going to crazy with it lately (XMAS stuff you know...) but some recent work was finish mounting everything and sync the carbs, finished up the wiring, had to make a new ground from the motor to the frame, mounted all fuel lines and fired it up. Had an air lock in the cooling system that necessitated pulling the lowest hose (that's why the bellypan is still off in the video), seems good now and coolers got hot so circulation seems good.

Tensioned chain and aligned gears, capped and filled chaincase with fluid.

Final mounted rear axle, aligned track and adjusted track tension.

Cleaned and played with secondary clutch. Finished painting pipes - here's where I'll insert a learning tidbit - Pipes. Painting pipes. Like most painting projects, it comes down to the prep. I always sandblast my pipes, then a wipe down with alcohol about 30 mins before painting. Sandblast as late as possible before painting them so that they don't have time to rust on you. A couple days ahead of time is OK if you're going to keep them in the garage or a cool, non-humid location, but ideally, sandblasting would happen the day before or the day of painting. I let them air dry after wiping with alcohol and then paint them with stove paint. You can get it at any BBQ store, DON'T use the "high heat" VHT crap from Canadian Tire, its junk IMO. The stove paint comes in flat or gloss black, and will easily stand up to sled exhaust temps. About $10 a can. I use "Stove Paint Black" comes in a can with flames on the side. Stands up really well, I get it at BBQ's Galore here in Calgary. Probably works good on the BBQ too but I've never used it for that!!

Other items completed:

Cleaned up the tunnel a little. Replaced one handwarmer.

The back of the new seat tips up a little off the tunnel (1/2" gap) and so I had to make a plate to fit under the compartment at the back so that nothing would slide out during riding. (see pic)

Sorry, no new photos right now, will get some more this week.

Here's the vid of it running and a little thank you for some of the guys that - there will be a vid of it on the snow hopefully this weekend. 29th for sure

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fQ0VmZDi5hA

Anyone got any tips for me? First video I have uploaded to youtube.

 

[dezmitchell]

Cant watch vid ......It says its private only

 

[Modman]

Cant watch vid ......It says its private only

dang youtube, ok will try and change it.

Thanks man!!!

 

[Rucky]

Youtube is a b!tch to get anything to upload. What's your reason for not using idle screws if you don't mind me asking?

 

[Modman]

Youtube is a b!tch to get anything to upload. What's your reason for not using idle screws if you don't mind me asking?

Don't like to use idle screws because they cause throttle delay. If there is cable slack with the slide sitting on the screw, then there will be a slight delay when you hit the gas from idle as the cable slack gets taken up in the throttle pull. Also, I feel it introduces another variable in the equation - Are the carbs pulling off the idle screws at the same time?

Also, without the idle screw and cable slack, throttle response off idle is instant, since when you hit the throttle there is no delay, it is always pulling the slides up. Effectively you are "hanging" the slides from the cable and lowering them to the idle height, instead of "resting" the slides on the idle adjuster screw and then "raising" the slides to the idle height.

When you synchronize (sync) the carbs (really important on a triple - more so than any other engine), if you use the idle adjustment, you have to sync the carbs once for the height of the idle screw (usually about 3/16"), then you have to sync the cables in each carb to one another so that they all lift off the screws at the same time (by using the adjuster/locknut on top of the carb). By backing the idle screw all the way out, the slides will drop down as far as the cable will let them (or until they bottom in the carb throat). Then you just sync the slide as you would have done before, but make the height at which you sync them, the same height as the idle screw (about 3/16"). I think I'm making this sound more complicated than it is.

2nd try explanation - Easy version: take a 3/16" or 1/8" drill bit and put it under the carb slide. Back out the idle adjuster screw all the way, then, only using the cable adjuster on the top of the carb, adjust the slide height so that it just touches the drill bit. Make sure that the cable pulls the slide right out of the way at wide open as well. Now repeat for other carb(s), ensuring that half throttle and wide open measurements are the same across all the carbs. Double check that all slides move up the instant you touch the throttle. Now you're done.

Another benefit of doing it this way is that if you have an aftermarket cable like mine (RSI / Gravity Worx), with a cable adjuster above the junction box (where your carb cables come together and then go from 2 or 3 into 1), you can use the upper adjuster to raise or lower all the slides the exact same amount.

An example of this was when I fired this sled up, idle was about 3200 RPM, instead of adjusting all three idle screws or all three cables, I just backed in the adjuster on the upper cable and it lowered the idle (because it lowered all the slides - all the same amount). Hope I have made this clear, (its not hard trust me), if not let me know I'll add some pics to clarify.

Obviously this ^^^ procedure is for individual cables on each carb, but can easily be adapted to rack carbs, same procedure still applies but racks will be already sync'd together but you can still eliminate throttle delay off idle - back idle screw adjuster all the way out and then just adjust the single throttle cable so that it opens the slides/butterflies from "idle" height, making sure there is no slack.

That's the long version Rucky!! Sorry about the long read.

 

[Modman]

added link back for video - pls try and let me know if it works. S&M Tube won't let me upload the M4V file. WTH???

 

[Rucky]

Don't like to use idle screws because they cause throttle delay. If there is cable slack with the slide sitting on the screw, then there will be a slight delay when you hit the gas from idle as the cable slack gets taken up in the throttle pull. Also, I feel it introduces another variable in the equation - Are the carbs pulling off the idle screws at the same time?

Also, without the idle screw and cable slack, throttle response off idle is instant, since when you hit the throttle there is no delay, it is always pulling the slides up. Effectively you are "hanging" the slides from the cable and lowering them to the idle height, instead of "resting" the slides on the idle adjuster screw and then "raising" the slides to the idle height.

When you synchronize (sync) the carbs (really important on a triple - more so than any other engine), if you use the idle adjustment, you have to sync the carbs once for the height of the idle screw (usually about 3/16"), then you have to sync the cables in each carb to one another so that they all lift off the screws at the same time (by using the adjuster/locknut on top of the carb). By backing the idle screw all the way out, the slides will drop down as far as the cable will let them (or until they bottom in the carb throat). Then you just sync the slide as you would have done before, but make the height at which you sync them, the same height as the idle screw (about 3/16"). I think I'm making this sound more complicated than it is.

2nd try explanation - Easy version: take a 3/16" or 1/8" drill bit and put it under the carb slide. Back out the idle adjuster screw all the way, then, only using the cable adjuster on the top of the carb, adjust the slide height so that it just touches the drill bit. Make sure that the cable pulls the slide right out of the way at wide open as well. Now repeat for other carb(s), ensuring that half throttle and wide open measurements are the same across all the carbs. Double check that all slides move up the instant you touch the throttle. Now you're done.

Another benefit of doing it this way is that if you have an aftermarket cable like mine (RSI / Gravity Worx), with a cable adjuster above the junction box (where your carb cables come together and then go from 2 or 3 into 1), you can use the upper adjuster to raise or lower all the slides the exact same amount.

An example of this was when I fired this sled up, idle was about 3200 RPM, instead of adjusting all three idle screws or all three cables, I just backed in the adjuster on the upper cable and it lowered the idle (because it lowered all the slides - all the same amount). Hope I have made this clear, (its not hard trust me), if not let me know I'll add some pics to clarify.

Obviously this ^^^ procedure is for individual cables on each carb, but can easily be adapted to rack carbs, same procedure still applies but racks will be already sync'd together but you can still eliminate throttle delay off idle - back idle screw adjuster all the way out and then just adjust the single throttle cable so that it opens the slides/butterflies from "idle" height, making sure there is no slack.

That's the long version Rucky!! Sorry about the long read.

I didn't really require that info for personal use cause I'm on an EFI sled, but good food for thought for others out there, and something to remember when working on buddy's sleds. Thanks!

 

[Thunderguy BOOSTED]

That thing is sick!!!

 

[FossY]

video stil says privat only