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If you really want to got with a inside wheel kit, i'd go with a 3 wheel instead of 2. I've seen broken wheels before, and it's pretty hard to ride out with only 1 wheel. Also i'd stay with the stock wheels, aluminum ones tend to ice up sometimes.

On my 08 at 5000km I put a new top end in, and at close too 8000kms new bottom end crank was going.Now with close to 10 000kms and still going strong I'd first check your compression and your crank runout and see where it is at.

Puck board, j bing some sort of plastic, etc are just band aids. They help but you need to do more. Make a L bracket from the toe hole and rivot or bolt to the side of the belly like in the pic. 4year of riding and no hole yet. Plus if you flop it on its side kill the motor. Amazing how many...

I bet it is your crank, my 08 was way out of spec with 7500kms + on it (it shooked like hell). Way smoother now with the new crank in.

Have you checked your crank run out?

I also have been think on pulling of the ring gear. Those that have did you have to change clutching after?

If you pulled the motor out, I'd check the wires that you had to pull out of the clip behind the chaincase and make sure you put them the right way. I had the same problem, the two wires pushed out when I put the clip back together.

I guess i'm doing good at replacing them around every 3500 or every season. This last chain lasted maybe 1200km and I checked the tension the night before, but it was a low priced chain they brought in. Seemed really cheap too me.

Some of us do inspect every ride and still crap happens. Close to 10 000kms on it and very few issues.

Consider yourself lucky thats all it did and not blown out the chain case. I'd say your looking more around $200 +- for parts. Average 90 to 150 for the chain 50 for the top gear and whatever for the tensioner. Few tools and do it yourself. I just blew my whole case up and quoted 970 for parts...

update your rear skid to the 2010 or if you really like to get the front end down more get a timbersled skid, pull the riser back to almost inline of your steering post (don't run then straight up), maybe soften up the front shocks abit. Plus I would get some slp powder pro skis down the road...

Depends on what elevation you are at. Stock at sea level ive be told 150. Myself here at 1800' I should have done a test on my new motor to see what it was at fresh. But before the new top end went in I was at 120 cold and 115 hot, starting to get alittle low I need ring but did the pistons too...

I'd also check the tunnel cooler. I've replace 2 with them leaking at the back underneath, bad welds.

Have you replaced the exhaust doughnut? They do wear out.

I don't think it matter where you go, there are always whinners. Saw a good on a few weekago at our local spot. A large goup comes in close to 30 of them +- for there little boozin day, (some little event that the were doing for someone). A good part of them were at one of the main ways up and...

I got a very close set up on mine. With all the extra air coming in when I had stock jetting (480 I think they are) still in and needle seting my egt's would easy be 1300 plus once it got up to 1650. Super lean in the mid range. Now with 500's in and .20 shims I havent seen any hotter than 1300...

Yup another great BRP design, just rider till she dies or track your km's. I got a pretty good idea when it's time to put the extra fuel in. I wish they would have done a sight tube instead of this dumb gauge that never reads right...

the entertainment for the season so far.....

Depends on how much you wanta spend? DJ is a good all around, but if you want a kit that works for the mt's in the area go to H20 in Sicamous, Dale know his stuff. I've rock both of them on two idenical machines, H2O is on top, more $$$ but it really works. It does inclued custom ramps, springs...

X2, sounds like the clutch needs cleaning and at the same time do the rave valves too. Most of the time it's those two.