wheel alignment
- Thread starter wiffler79
- Start date
DaveB
Active VIP Member
I'm sure there is a proper spec in a manual somewhere...but I always set my 4x4 machines the same: zero toe. We all know that a bit of toe-in is better for control/steering....I go zero so that when in 4x4 with the front wheels pulling, it likely has a bit of toe-in. My 0.02.
tex78
Active VIP Member
ya daves right u want toe in..... as the tires are pushed out [ from the force against the tires it then toes out ] .... never toed out ever....
Garryese
Active VIP Member
0 to 1/8 toed out. NEVER toed in. Toe in will make the steering unstable at speed, especially when you touch the front brakes. Too much toe out will give you a little wobble under hard acceleration.
tex78
Active VIP Member
ya but if ya have it toed out [ standing still ] then when ya drive and the force on the tires will make it too toed out............
no different the cars.... there is no car or truck that has a toe out spec...
allways toed in 1/16 to 1/8
no different the cars.... there is no car or truck that has a toe out spec...
allways toed in 1/16 to 1/8
sledderdoc
Super Senior Member
Sleds are toed out a tiny bit quads are toed in. Each one is different though. Best to go to the OEM website and take a look at the listed alignment procedure. My Arctic Cat was a 1/8 th to 1/4 in. toe in measured to the frame and each tire. My Rhino is 10mm. etc.
Good thread - when my Honda Foreman was new in 2006 I noticed it was toe-ed out considerably. I inquired about this to a few sources including Honda service at Extreme Honda and inspected a few other Honda Foremans 2006 and newer and they are now a toe ed out spec ( compared to the previous toe-ed in spec) . I agree it does not make sense but I changed it anyway. The toe-ed out makes it easy to steer in 4X4 at lower speeds but darts around at higher speeds on hard pack especially with after market tires. The toe out catches small ruts and you really have to hang on to the bar at high speeds. I still have some toe-ed out but only half as much as the factory spec. Steering is more stable but a little heavier.
Cheers
:
Cheers
:
Garryese
Active VIP Member
wiffler79, pm sent with honda specs
DaveB
Active VIP Member
Why not just post them if you have them? Sounds like Honda requires a toe-out...contrary to most other quads and vehicles....share the knowledge.
seano11
Member
how do you guys go about doing a alignment ?
brutematt750
Active VIP Member
Adjust the tie rods
sledderdoc
Super Senior Member
Basically center your steering wheel and secure with strap if needed. Make sure quad is not jacked up. Measure from the center of the rear of the tires to the frame to ensure they are straight. Then measure from the rear tire to tire from the center line. Then measure from the front center to center for exact toe in or toe out depending on what your manual says. As stated you adjust tie rod ends to adjust. Hopefully thats somewhat clear ........ made sense to me lol. :d
crisscross1
Active VIP Member
Sledderdoc is correct, there is just one more thing that I do and that is to put about 30lbs on the front racks, which loads up the springs. Simulating a person on the quad, I also take the wrenches with me just for fine tuning. Some of your joints may have some play in them, and once you have done it you will see how quick it will be to adjust. good luck
X2 I use a ratchet strap ( with light tension) to keep the handle bar straight and measure from the frame to the edge or center of the tire tread ( at the rear of the tire ) to ensure both tire distances are equal ( relative to the frame ) . Then measure between the tires ( either edge or centerline of the tread ) - One measurement at the rear of the tire and then compare it to the measurement at the front of the tire. I think it is a good idea to load up the front rack to simulate a rider on the quad for usspension load . I am not sure if this is how the shops do the alignment but I have tried this method and it worked for me.
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