FastFarmer
Active VIP Member
Thinking that Kanedog is going for a gag payment from AC...with all this bad press would imagine he could get a fair chunk of change..
Thinking that Kanedog is going for a gag payment from AC...with all this bad press would imagine he could get a fair chunk of change..
I believe that is plumbers crackArctic crack???
Anyone old enough to remember the 700 wildcat ? Lol
Had a 1990 and clutch needed replacing at 300 miles due to it cracking up .
Complete junk as they vibrated so bad . Comet clutch’s back then .
Made good power though . Just a bit of porting and SLP twins and see you later . Lol
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Clutch issue? Maybe. A few bolts backed out and 3 or 4 photo's of cracks from the internet and now you are going to sink Arctic Cat?? I do admit this is a humorous thread. lol
I do know people who have had the clutches come apart on their cats, I do not know of anyone who have had cracked chassis.
Does anyone personally know of any cases other than pics on the internet?
Bad QC on parts, impacts etc can contribute to cracks. We saw it on the G4 and people said they did not hit anything.
Thanks for doing this, I had a similar plan but don't have time right now. This makes total sense to me. It would be interesting to check where on the primary the belt length will allow the max shift?I have a 2017 king cat with team clutching. I was putting the clutch kit in tonight and found a potential problem with this theory of the KBI. Perhaps Im missing something here, but what I understand the claim of the problem to be is as follows: when the clutch is fully shifted Ie: sheaves closest together as they will get ( say 1:1 ratio) which is normal, then its the cover that is taking the full brunt of the flyweights attempting to shift even further. As to say its the force of the flyweights that are stressing and damaging the cover ultimately/potentially causing the clutch to come apart when the cover fails. I cannot speak to anything except my sled but I assume the other cat primarys are the same as the one I have on my King cat. I see what the KBI is talking about, If you push the primary clutch sheaves together they do indeed hit the cover bushing which is what stops the sheaves from moving closer together. This however is Not putting excessive stresses on the cover, during normal operation the clutch halves do not come anywhere near hitting that bushing. When i push the sheaves fully together with the cover off and no spring installed that puts the Belt half ways or maybe more past the rim of the sheave. With the cover on and no spring sheaves together the belt is still sticking way out of the primary by nearly half the belt thickness. So during normal operation there is no point where the clutches are that close to each other. When i put the belt flush with the top of the primary’s rim there is a good 1/8 inch before the bushing contacts. This is All based on my assumption that the belt doesn’t ride half way out of the primary at full shift. Ive never actually seen for my self on this King cat, but on my summit 3/4 of an inch below the rim of the primary equals approx 1:1 ratio, you would be lucky to achieve getting the belt even flush, Nevermind 1/2 way above the rim...... these are just my observations and could be way out to lunch. Who knows. I attempted to put a picture in with this.... it may or may not be here. Not sure till I post
I have a 2017 king cat with team clutching. I was putting the clutch kit in tonight and found a potential problem with this theory of the KBI. Perhaps Im missing something here, but what I understand the claim of the problem to be is as follows: when the clutch is fully shifted Ie: sheaves closest together as they will get ( say 1:1 ratio) which is normal, then its the cover that is taking the full brunt of the flyweights attempting to shift even further. As to say its the force of the flyweights that are stressing and damaging the cover ultimately/potentially causing the clutch to come apart when the cover fails. I cannot speak to anything except my sled but I assume the other cat primarys are the same as the one I have on my King cat. I see what the KBI is talking about, If you push the primary clutch sheaves together they do indeed hit the cover bushing which is what stops the sheaves from moving closer together. This however is Not putting excessive stresses on the cover, during normal operation the clutch halves do not come anywhere near hitting that bushing. When i push the sheaves fully together with the cover off and no spring installed that puts the Belt half ways or maybe more past the rim of the sheave. With the cover on and no spring sheaves together the belt is still sticking way out of the primary by nearly half the belt thickness. So during normal operation there is no point where the clutches are that close to each other. When i put the belt flush with the top of the primary’s rim there is a good 1/8 inch before the bushing contacts. This is All based on my assumption that the belt doesn’t ride half way out of the primary at full shift. Ive never actually seen for my self on this King cat, but on my summit 3/4 of an inch below the rim of the primary equals approx 1:1 ratio, you would be lucky to achieve getting the belt even flush, Nevermind 1/2 way above the rim...... these are just my observations and could be way out to lunch. Who knows. I attempted to put a picture in with this.... it may or may not be here. Not sure till I post
Not sure what would happen? I imagine it would/could certainly smack the the cover’s bushing in that scenario. If you look at post #3 it shows the primary failed, and the belt fully intact.
I think you need to switch strains. All of these parts are isolated from each other. Engine is on rubber mounts, TCL has isolators, and the rail is literally supported on shocks from the chassis.KBI new evidence uncovered!
KBI has received one report of glue coming apart on the Alpha Rail.
The bonding agent, glue for short, is a highly engineered glue designed to bond two pieces of metal. It is almost as good as a single piece of metal. When combined with rivets, it’s as if the rail is one continuous piece of metal. If the glue fails, the strength is decreased and the rivets take the stress that the glue was taking. The stress is transferred to say, three small rivets. Failure, aka cracking, follows fairly quickly. The point with the most stress will crack/fail first and now we have a cracked rail.
The big issue is that the glue let go because of harmonics. It certainly isn’t stress because the glue has been extensively tested. What the glue factory didn’t test for was harmonics. Harmonics are causing the glue to fail with cracking soon to follow.
A second piece of evidenciary value is reports of manifold exhaust springs breaking. These are basically pieces of metal in a constant state of stress. The springs are pulled apart and stretched between the manifold and pipe. We can recall that most if cracks so far have occurred at the most stressed point of the sled. Remember the tunnel cracking at the chaincase? Remember the cracking of the TCL, the approximate 4” x 14” piece of 1/4” aluminum that attaches harmonic motor to the frame. The TCL is directly bolted to motor. The TCL is directly connected to jack shaft which is connected by a chain to the bottom gear which is made from Aluminum. Harmonics meets aluminum bottom gear and quickly eats away at the aluminum gear making a nice gray looking oil sludge and worn out teeth. The harmonics are transferred to the thick chaincase which is attached to the tunnel by two pieces of thin aluminum. Not surprisingly, the thin pieces of aluminum are cracking. Now the harmonics are travelling down the tunnel, through the four suspension mount bolts, into the suspension. Guess what gives now? Yep, the glue fails. Now the glue load is transferred to small rivets and boom, cracka lacka at the weakest point again.
It’s like watching electricity flow. You can follow the path of the harmonics and at each weak point along the way, damage happens.
Let’s follow the path of destruction shall we? Remember the reports of failure and how the harmonics are leaving the motor and flowing outward at each stop we make.
1. Primary clutch-fails
2. Secondary bolt backing out-causes clutch sheaves to come apart.
3. TCL cracks. How the heck does one crack 1/4” thick aluminum? Why is material now made of carbon fibre? It’s been advertised as two lbs lighter. Why would a company use expensive carbon fibre compared to cheap aluminum to save just two pounds. It’s humorous as they didn’t advertise a 1.3 gain by adding the bandaid faux harmonic balancer aka steel ring bolted to the the primary fixed sheave. I feel kinda lied to.
4. Brake rotor nuts backing off. Connected to tunnel thru the jack shaft bearing.
5. Aluminum bottom gear
6. Brake rotor nutz. The trackshaft is getting harmonics from both sides so I suspect that’s why a nut recall was issued. This issue probably showed up fairly quickly.
7. Tunnel cracking at chaincase attachment point.
8. Bolts backing out of suspension at tunnel attachment point.
9. Glue failing
10. Rails cracking.
Man that’s crazy when you follow the crack route. It’s so clear now how it’s going down.