Just picked up me a new ride! Out for a rip are ya, bud?

[ferniesnow]

Nice ride Joey! Think about putting a piece of plywood across the back window for some type of protection. Ya' gotta have something there because as sure as there are little green apples, there will be a broken back window and/or more damage. Just trying to help you out.......

 

[joey]

Nice ride Joey! Think about putting a piece of plywood across the back window for some type of protection. Ya' gotta have something there because as sure as there are little green apples, there will be a broken back window and/or more damage. Just trying to help you out.......

Excellent idea, although not sure if it's legal to block out your window like that....?

 

[Old-Soul]

Lots of 670 info online Joey. Very popular machines, lots of guys still using them. Maybe hit up the Doo-Talk forums.

Not sure if those arms are the same on multiple years but I would think the sled junkyards would have one that isn't bent for a reasonable price.

 

[Modman]

Lots of 670 info online Joey. Very popular machines, lots of guys still using them. Maybe hit up the Doo-Talk forums.

Not sure if those arms are the same on multiple years but I would think the sled junkyards would have one that isn't bent for a reasonable price.

There's lots of info right here on this forum, I had a few of them and also built a couple, one was a race prepped Split Second motor, fully ported, high compression, blah blah blah, and one had a 740. Dean at Mad Motorsports had a few, so did SummitRic....tune it right and keep the RPMs under 7800, had over 8,000 kms on one of mine and it was only on the second set of pistons (swapped at 6,000 kms). The cranks were not good for high RPM, lots of guys that twisted them up to 8100 seemed to have issues, and they were well out of the power band by then so no point really going that high.

Joey, I still have a full custom dash for an S-chassis, you can mount all your gauges in it and run without a hood in the spring time. I will send it to you for free, its just sitting around the shop, just happened across it the other day. I also have a clutch alignment tool, holder and a clutch puller for that sled as well that I will send you. I also have a spare secondary clutch with a 49 degree helix in it, ready to go. I probably have a couple other parts as well (gears and clutch springs etc) I'm pretty sure. No a-arms though but there are tons on kijijii or ebay - it will be easy to find one from the same year and model s-chassis for cheap.

40:1 is good, don't go any higher than that. I ran mine with a 35:1 and 1 range hotter on the plugs for the sleds that I had pipes on, but if its stock then just run it at 40:1 and use the "9" range plugs (think they are BR9ES). You may want to consider a gear swap, will help your belt run a lot cooler, those sleds were geared stupid high from the factory. My first one in 1995 had the "Eastern gears" and I had it up over 100 mph when the belt let go....geared it down and no more belt issues.

 

[Absledder]

Excellent idea, although not sure if it's legal to block out your window like that....?

Most big rigs have no rear window, same with dump trucks, small picker trucks, tons of other vehicles. I'm not a cop but I can't see there being a problem with it. Can't see sh!t when the beds loaded up anyways. .

 

[MADMAN]

What brand is your sled deck

 

[joey]

There's lots of info right here on this forum, I had a few of them and also built a couple, one was a race prepped Split Second motor, fully ported, high compression, blah blah blah, and one had a 740. Dean at Mad Motorsports had a few, so did SummitRic....tune it right and keep the RPMs under 7800, had over 8,000 kms on one of mine and it was only on the second set of pistons (swapped at 6,000 kms). The cranks were not good for high RPM, lots of guys that twisted them up to 8100 seemed to have issues, and they were well out of the power band by then so no point really going that high.

Joey, I still have a full custom dash for an S-chassis, you can mount all your gauges in it and run without a hood in the spring time. I will send it to you for free, its just sitting around the shop, just happened across it the other day. I also have a clutch alignment tool, holder and a clutch puller for that sled as well that I will send you. I also have a spare secondary clutch with a 49 degree helix in it, ready to go. I probably have a couple other parts as well (gears and clutch springs etc) I'm pretty sure. No a-arms though but there are tons on kijijii or ebay - it will be easy to find one from the same year and model s-chassis for cheap.

40:1 is good, don't go any higher than that. I ran mine with a 35:1 and 1 range hotter on the plugs for the sleds that I had pipes on, but if its stock then just run it at 40:1 and use the "9" range plugs (think they are BR9ES). You may want to consider a gear swap, will help your belt run a lot cooler, those sleds were geared stupid high from the factory. My first one in 1995 had the "Eastern gears" and I had it up over 100 mph when the belt let go....geared it down and no more belt issues.

Wow thank you so much! I will pm you my address if you don't mind, I would appreciate it a lot!

Sounds like a sled worth modding eh? If I can get this thing into the places I wanna go than I won't buy a new sled (at least for a few seasons anyway) Seemed like it had a little bit of bottom end bog, could be old gas, could be dirty carbs, could be dirty (Rave?) valves, I will rip it apart next weekend and go through all that stuff. But once you hit like 30 k and cracked it she'd pull your arms out of socket! haha I will link you a video from saturday and if you wouldn't mind listening for a bog in the bottom end? I don't know how these sleds are supposed to feel or sound as I have always had triples and my old MM would try and pull the skis off the ground off the line. I like the sled so far, just gotta tune it up, it also has some kind of altitude tuner mounted to the dash? I will get a pic tomorrow and post it, again I know not much about these sleds

 

[Dazzler]

Those are a wicked good sled, geared down a little and that 670 will pull like a mule. Only thing I recall being an issue on them was if you park them with the nose down hill or in back of pickup with the track up on a closed tail gate the little bastard would flood and play out three good men taking turns pulling it over to get it running!!! Good luck with your new ride!!!
Also you can cover over your back widow without issues with the law.

 

[lloydguy]

Welcome to the S- chassis club Joey.That's what I ride,it doesn't get me into the cool guy club
but it's good enough for me.Mine has the racer's edge oil delete kit in it,there's prob afew of
those still kickin around.

 

[joey]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m9XOJ86PEQU&feature=youtu.be

Anyone hear a bog in the bottom end? feels like it doesn't really get going until your moving and punch it

 

[MADMAN]

Major bog yes

plugs, jets? How's the compression Joey?

 

[joey]

Haven't checked the compression yet, like I said I am ripping it apart next weekend, cleaning the carbs, rave valves and changing the plugs.

 

[CatMan16]

Check the belt too and the secondary it almost sounds like it is shifting up too soon


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[CatMan16]

The display that is mounted on the dash is a race pack it displays exhaust temp and water temp. If you get that working you should be able to see if you are jetted properly.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[joey]

The display that is mounted on the dash is a race pack it displays exhaust temp and water temp. If you get that working you should be able to see if you are jetted properly.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

It works! Just have no idea how to use it
lol

 

[CatMan16]

I have never had one but someone should be able to tell you what the ideal exhaust temp should be for it to be running properly.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Modman]

Here are the Digatron instructions - look on the side or the back and figure out what model it is, then download the instructions for it. Digatron - Performance Data Acquisition Systems - lap timing & engine monitoring gauges In the exhaust pipe you will have either a single probe, probably about 8-10" from the cylinder, near the y-pipe junction. If there are 2 probes, they should be in the y-pipe legs themselves. Here are some instructions on mounting the probes (bottom of the page, right hand side) Aaen Performance : Gauges and Tachs for Snowmobiles

The temps need to be correlated to the plug readings, depending on probe placement. measure from the back of the cylinder to the probe and tell us what the distance is. Generally, these sleds run good at around 1250-1300 at full throttle, My race motor liked it around 1350, but that was av gas and high compression.

I agree with Catman, it seems like it revs quick (like when you jump something) but then bogs after. This is pretty clear at the 20 sec mark of the vid, you hit a bump and it revs quick, then as you land it seems to bog down under load. Secondary probably needs some TLC, it could be that the RAVE valves are pulled fully open (this will result in some bottom end bogging) but usually not that bad. My suspicion is clutching without seeing what kind of condition the sled is in.

Was going to mention yesterday, even with an oil injection system deleted (is the tank and everything off the sled?), you still need to fill the center cavity with oil to keep the rotary valve lubed up (if the previous owner didn't tell you this). Here's how - on the motor, behind the carbs, there is a round looking "plate". On the top and bottom of this "plate" are 2 metal barbs sticking out from behind it. Connect a hose to the bottom one, use a hose clamp, and fill it about 2/3rds full with injection oil (whatever kind u r mixing in your gas), then connect it to the top barb. Use clear tubing so you can see the oil level. You will have to top up the hose every now and then (few times a season). This keeps the rotary valve gears (and center crankcase bearings) behind the carbs lubricated, it doesn't get oil through the oil and gas mix, so you need to keep it lubed by using a tube.

How many KM's? Is the sled clean looking? Has the motor been rebuilt?

 

[MADMAN]

Google it, I google everything lol

It works! Just have no idea how to use it
lol

 

[Bogger]

Google it, I google everything lol

I would advise being a little more specific in your search.....

https://www.google.ca/#q=everything

 

[joey]

Here are the Digatron instructions - look on the side or the back and figure out what model it is, then download the instructions for it. Digatron - Performance Data Acquisition Systems - lap timing & engine monitoring gauges In the exhaust pipe you will have either a single probe, probably about 8-10" from the cylinder, near the y-pipe junction. If there are 2 probes, they should be in the y-pipe legs themselves. Here are some instructions on mounting the probes (bottom of the page, right hand side) Aaen Performance : Gauges and Tachs for Snowmobiles

The temps need to be correlated to the plug readings, depending on probe placement. measure from the back of the cylinder to the probe and tell us what the distance is. Generally, these sleds run good at around 1250-1300 at full throttle, My race motor liked it around 1350, but that was av gas and high compression.

I agree with Catman, it seems like it revs quick (like when you jump something) but then bogs after. This is pretty clear at the 20 sec mark of the vid, you hit a bump and it revs quick, then as you land it seems to bog down under load. Secondary probably needs some TLC, it could be that the RAVE valves are pulled fully open (this will result in some bottom end bogging) but usually not that bad. My suspicion is clutching without seeing what kind of condition the sled is in.

Was going to mention yesterday, even with an oil injection system deleted (is the tank and everything off the sled?), you still need to fill the center cavity with oil to keep the rotary valve lubed up (if the previous owner didn't tell you this). Here's how - on the motor, behind the carbs, there is a round looking "plate". On the top and bottom of this "plate" are 2 metal barbs sticking out from behind it. Connect a hose to the bottom one, use a hose clamp, and fill it about 2/3rds full with injection oil (whatever kind u r mixing in your gas), then connect it to the top barb. Use clear tubing so you can see the oil level. You will have to top up the hose every now and then (few times a season). This keeps the rotary valve gears (and center crankcase bearings) behind the carbs lubricated, it doesn't get oil through the oil and gas mix, so you need to keep it lubed by using a tube.

How many KM's? Is the sled clean looking? Has the motor been rebuilt?

It has twin pipes, and they do not connect anywhere. The oil jug is still there, empty; you're saying just keep it at least half full?

Its not terribly pretty, but its not beat or a piece of junk, just not perfect, has about 5100 k and to my knowledge it has not been rebuilt.

again thanks for the info