Just a little FYI on the Polaris CFI Engine and surrounding rumors

[RK Tek]

Id say I can make this happen. I will contact Chris next week for your kit I do some business with him currently. Just to make sure i have this correct i need to order pistons and head correct?? What comp ratio?? Stock base gasket?? I just want be sure I have all the correct parts to achieve 15 hp. Thank you Kelsey

Deano

MAD MOTORSPORTS

Awesome..

Just to be fair.. I want to order your High HP kit that you offer and dyno it as well. (option 1 for now.. maybe option 2 later).

Please call me so we can arrange this 208-852-3221 Thanks Deano...

 

[RK Tek]

Now that all that is done with and we will both be dynoing each others kits....

Does anybody want to get this thread back on topic and have an informative discussion on this engine without all the BS?? Afterall... this thread was NEVER about anybody's kits.. it was ALWAYS about information on this particular engine in stock form

 

[sledneck_03]

So 14 piston is the beefed up skirt 13 piston with new rings? Whats better about rings? Do not flake as easy?

 

[bbecker17]

what are you guys clutching for as far as target rpm 7800?

 

[Deano670]

You have my number Kelsey, you basically told me to go #$%^ my hat in your previous post so if you want to talk please call me. Further more if you read my first post #80 I have made NO such claim as to having a HIGH HP KIT as you call it. Further more if your pistons are different than the off the shelf wossners you must have found a benefit over the hp levels they made and designed your own so really I see no benefit to you dynoing them again as you should have this information already. But I will send you a set none the less. IMO as you say alot I believe there is ALOT more work need to be done on this engine to achieve 15hp or more which is why we are cylinder porting,increasing compression, running aftermarket exhaust. Further more it appears our option one kit is not going to be highly sot after although it addresses the piston/ring failures its not going to be much of a hp adder as the cylinder sleeves are still in the cases a 1/4" past the intake runners. None the less sorry to all of you who have had the displeasure of reading the last 2 pages of this thread as facts have apparently have turned into key board banter. Again do your research on the products you spend your money on and let common sense prevail. For any of you interested in what we have to offer you can pm me or call me at the shop 780 986 6370

Thank you

Deano

MAD MOTORSPORTS

 

[RK Tek]

So 14 piston is the beefed up skirt 13 piston with new rings? Whats better about rings? Do not flake as easy?

My Sources at Polaris have informed me that...The 13-14 piston and the 2011-2012 piston are the same piston.. there have been no skirt alterations on the piston itself...The rings changed to help with sealing and longevity. Our experience has shown the rings (old rings that is) out last the pistons (not always but usually)

 

[sledneck_03]

My Sources at Polaris have informed me that...The 13-14 piston and the 2011-2012 piston are the same piston.. there have been no skirt alterations on the piston itself...The rings changed to help with sealing and longevity. Our experience has shown the rings (old rings that is) out last the pistons (not always but usually)

I thought that guys pulled them apart and notes the skirts are beefier on 13s? Then what changed 11/12 to 13?

 

[RK Tek]

I thought that guys pulled them apart and notes the skirts are beefier on 13s? Then what changed 11/12 to 13?

CYLINDER skirt (intake side only) is thicker on the 2013 and 2014 but the piston (which we see is the main problem) has remained the same

 

[sledneck_03]

CYLINDER skirt (intake side only) is thicker on the 2013 and 2014 but the piston (which we see is the main problem) has remained the same

Ahhhh i c i c. So a better piston upgrade will still be a good idea on my 14 at about 1500 miles then.

 

[RK Tek]

Ahhhh i c i c. So a better piston upgrade will still be a good idea on my 14 at about 1500 miles then.

Not sure on the 1500 mile part, we see the skirts begin collapsing very quickly .. Anytime you add ANY better internal engine component, it is a good thing,, at what stage in the engine's life you decide to do it, is entirely up to you...Hope this helps

 

[sledneck_03]

Not sure on the 1500 mile part, we see the skirts begin collapsing very quickly .. Anytime you add ANY better internal engine component, it is a good thing,, at what stage in the engine's life you decide to do it, is entirely up to you...Hope this helps

Well i say 1500 cause the magic failure numbers seemed like 1800-2200 miles till a skirt drop. But i know that one guy on snowest put your head piston kit on from day one. A friend of mine has your 858 on his 13 and your piston and head kit on his 11. His 11 sounded like its got too high compression head, can you get stock compression but your head for better cooling? Or just 12.5 for lowest? Running at 1500 ft

 

[RK Tek]

Well i say 1500 cause the magic failure numbers seemed like 1800-2200 miles till a skirt drop. But i know that one guy on snowest put your head piston kit on from day one. A friend of mine has your 858 on his 13 and your piston and head kit on his 11. His 11 sounded like its got too high compression head, can you get stock compression but your head for better cooling? Or just 12.5 for lowest? Running at 1500 ft

we find the gains in the head to come more from the chamber design than compression increase,, if you look on the website you will see that there is a solid 7-8HP gain in this engine with the STOCK compression... no increase... as you climb n elevation, compression can help but we do not like high compression on this engine. again, the gains are found in chamber design.. Why do you think he has too high of compression?? what mods are done to this engine.. airbox, pipe,can.. etc?

 

[sledneck_03]

we find the gains in the head to come more from the chamber design than compression increase,, if you look on the website you will see that there is a solid 7-8HP gain in this engine with the STOCK compression... no increase... as you climb n elevation, compression can help but we do not like high compression on this engine. again, the gains are found in chamber design.. Why do you think he has too high of compression?? what mods are done to this engine.. airbox, pipe,can.. etc?

Was hitting det alot. Put some av in and ran right. Not sure on what bolts ons on it.

 

[Rhodesie]

just want to post a pic of what ultimately happens as the piston collapses. this year alone on a 12 pro and an 11 pro I have inspected the cylinders during a preseason and found this. in both cases the sleds had less than a 1000 miles. piston measurements at skirt were .2mm or .0079" collapsed. remove everything from the intake and use a mirror with a bright light. look closely. if you are nearing the end of warranty or are off already think about the remainder of the season. if the cylinder skirt drops, then its mass destruction. this is not a scare tactic but what I have found last year and already this year.

 

[RK Tek]

Was hitting det alot. Put some av in and ran right. Not sure on what bolts ons on it.

Well have this guy cal me and we can sort it all out...

 

[Quicksand]

How many mountain miles do you feel you can SAFELY get out of your pistons before you reccomend changing them out? Or is it just a matter of watching compression numbers.

 

[RK Tek]

How many mountain miles do you feel you can SAFELY get out of your pistons before you reccomend changing them out? Or is it just a matter of watching compression numbers.

Great question

We ride between 2500 and 3200 MOUNTAIN miles every season.. the pistons are replaced after every season and they , by inspection, could still be run without issues.. we just choose to change them out every season when we sell the sled..
So, in short, I would figure on every 2500 MOUNTAIN miles and about double that for the non-mountain areas

 

[E-Zmoke]

Great question

We ride between 2500 and 3200 MOUNTAIN miles every season.. the pistons are replaced after every season and they , by inspection, could still be run without issues.. we just choose to change them out every season when we sell the sled..
So, in short, I would figure on every 2500 MOUNTAIN miles and about double that for the non-mountain areas

I believe demonspeed was wondering about the stock pistons...?

 

[trebelNtig]

Hey Kelsey

Can u look at #102, and give me your opinion on my situation.

Thanks

 

[RK Tek]

I have a question regarding the cranks......

I have a 2011, Pro 800 RMK 155, with approximately 1200 miles on it. I live in Saskatchewan (Flatlander), and this sled only has 2 trips on it to the mountains.
Last spring (MARCH) it started idling high, so I took it to the dealer, as I still have extended warranty. PTO crank seal gone, so it was sucking air, (reason), PTO end bearing was on the way out and took out the seal. They dropped in a complete new engine.

The Polaris tech asked me if I did lots of carving in deep snow.... Pissin around slow....Less under hood air movement. Yes I do... He said that happened because the clutches/belt heat up, transferring that heat to the crank and PTO bearing, and the heat causes bearing failure.

Will a clutch side vent kit help to prevent this from happening again??? Looking at installing a MO FLO Vent Kit, 6 panel, with pre-filters.

Is there anyway of telling if I have the Fuji crank in this new drop in?

The sled has been great and is in mint shape, Polaris has not come out with anything great, that makes me want to upgrade, or that I won't break ie(driveshaft and the belt drive).

BTW, great thread, with lots of useful info. I will be definitely be putting in the piston/head kit, in this new drop in.

Venting never hurts.. but the I can not agree with the idea of the heat under the hood taking out the seal... No way to really tellon the Fuji without knowing the color of the journals... or part #..