Just a little FYI on the Polaris CFI Engine and surrounding rumors

Deano670

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I should have been more clear in my explanation my apologies. The physical stroke of the rod is not being altered, what is being altered is the pin location in the piston creating more upward travel of the piston which changes your compression height between the piston and cylinder head. Hence the need for a spacer plate between the case's and cylinders. It will alter the angle of the connecting rod in relation to the cylinder and give us more cylinder porting options.

Deano
 

RK Tek

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I should have been more clear in my explanation my apologies. The physical stroke of the rod is not being altered, what is being altered is the pin location in the piston creating more upward travel of the piston which changes your compression height between the piston and cylinder head. Hence the need for a spacer plate between the case's and cylinders. It will alter the angle of the connecting rod in relation to the cylinder and give us more cylinder porting options.

Deano


The angle of the connecting rod will not change with any change in piston or cylinder spacer.. The only way to change any angles is with a rod length change or stroking of the crank. Just clearing that up.
 

Deano670

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I guess I will put it this way, do to the lower wrist pin location in the piston and the fact that the cat piston is fit tighter in comparison to say a stock oem piston we have noticed a very slight change in angles. The biggest benefit to using the cat piston is it changes how the thrust pressure is applied to both the cylinder wall and the piston skirt for the better. It has been said that the rings seem to be cheap and failing prematurely, IMO if you lower the pin location in the piston that is going to take pressure off the rings and cause less piston tilt/slap. None the less these engines will be locally tested and tuned for anyone interested in what we have to offer give us a call and we would be more than happy to help. 780 986 6370

Deano
 

RK Tek

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I guess I will put it this way, do to the lower wrist pin location in the piston and the fact that the cat piston is fit tighter in comparison to say a stock oem piston we have noticed a very slight change in angles. The biggest benefit to using the cat piston is it changes how the thrust pressure is applied to both the cylinder wall and the piston skirt for the better. It has been said that the rings seem to be cheap and failing prematurely, IMO if you lower the pin location in the piston that is going to take pressure off the rings and cause less piston tilt/slap. None the less these engines will be locally tested and tuned for anyone interested in what we have to offer give us a call and we would be more than happy to help. 780 986 6370

Deano


Deano, Sounds like a fine kit.. Best of luck to ya..

But since this thread is about INFORMATION on this engine and mods that state things that may not be correct.. I have to , again, point out a few things..

Not trying to be an A$$ just keeping true to the thread topic

1) Rod angles are NOT changed by the piston.. The rod angle is 100% dependent on the stroke and rod length.. Those are the ONLY determinents..

2) The CAT piston is the SAME dimension (bore wise) as the Polaris OEM piston.. So, they do not fit any tighter in the cylinder.. They are taller than the Polaris piston but the sizing is the same. So, there is no tighter fit with the CAT piston over the OEM Polaris.

Many shops are using the CAT piston or a version thereof with these engines.. We choose not to use it for various reasons.

We need to keep the technical information as correct as possible so people can be informed

Just trying to stay true to the thread topic... Please do not take offense because I am not trying to offend.

Good luck with your kit I am sure it willbe a nice improvement.
 
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Deano670

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No offense taken Kelsey at all. Good luck to you and your products this season. For all you readers and potential customers I hope you take the time to review the information here and make the best decision for your your application.

Thank you

Deano

MAD MOTORSPORTS
 

LennyR

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Information is great, but keep in mind, "you read it on the Internet". Has that always turned out well for everyone. Some people make great performance enhancing parts, some people talk on forum chat lines. Maybe there are people that do both, maybe some are better at talking than producing results.
Heard lots of big claims and big promises with technical sounding explanations, that were bit lacking, but bottom line, .......... Salesman gotta sell !!!!
Oh, And no offense meant, strictly an opinion.
 

rmscustom

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Rkt got my money today... Some because of the info here and other places but mostly because I know first hand how his AC stuff runs in the mountains... I hoping his Polaris stuff works as well.
 

Rustifer

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What about the fuel mapping?? Should I also be getting an aftermarket fuel controller? If so which is best?
 

scrfce

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Information is great, but keep in mind, "you read it on the Internet". Has that always turned out well for everyone. Some people make great performance enhancing parts, some people talk on forum chat lines. Maybe there are people that do both, maybe some are better at talking than producing results.
Heard lots of big claims and big promises with technical sounding explanations, that were bit lacking, but bottom line, .......... Salesman gotta sell !!!!
Oh, And no offense meant, strictly an opinion.

Hey lenny quit tippy toeing, doesnt suit u. Say ur piece, some cant read between the lines
 

RK Tek

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What about the fuel mapping?? Should I also be getting an aftermarket fuel controller? If so which is best?

we like the Boondocker fuel control boxes. The Power commander control boxes also work well,, But unless you have a 2013 or 2014 sled, you do not need a fuel control box
 

Rustifer

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we like the Boondocker fuel control boxes. The Power commander control boxes also work well,, But unless you have a 2013 or 2014 sled, you do not need a fuel control box

Slightly off topic, but I heard a rumor that the fuel mapping from 08 to 10 was too lean in the midrange, has that been fixed with the latest polaris flash? if no controller is required what is the best flash?? some say the april 2010 and some say the 2008.
 

Shitfly

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Sure I'll get corrected here..but I think the midrange lean issue on the earlier CFI was due in part to the 4injector set up(leaning out switching between the upper&lower injectors). Not sure what the fuel map for that set up would do on the newer 2inj set up..anyways, just trying to keep this thread going, lots of good info on here!
 

Rustifer

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Sure I'll get corrected here..but I think the midrange lean issue on the earlier CFI was due in part to the 4injector set up(leaning out switching between the upper&lower injectors). Not sure what the fuel map for that set up would do on the newer 2inj set up..anyways, just trying to keep this thread going, lots of good info on here!

Im just curious as I have a 2010 dragon with a failed crank and I wanna know the best fix for reliability
 

E-Zmoke

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Im just curious as I have a 2010 dragon with a failed crank and I wanna know the best fix for reliability

Sell it, and buy a Pro! I would give Chris a call @ Parkland Motorsports in Stony, he knows the dragons inside and out, and knows what works and doesn't on them.

I like Deano's idea @ Mad Motorsports of raising the cylinders out of the case. That kit should work very well and will allow for some great porting options. Can't wait to hear more about it!
 
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Rustifer

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Sell it, and buy a Pro! I would give Chris a call @ Parkland Motorsports in Stony, he knows the dragons inside and out, and knows what works and doesn't on them.

I like Deano's idea @ Mad Motorsports of raising the cylinders out of the case. That kit should work very well and will allow for some great porting options. Can't wait to hear more about it!

Im seriously gonna think about the pro, still want to fix it properly for whoever gets it next, I'm pretty sure my wife wont allow another Polaris in the garage after all the problems I've had with this one haha.
 

RK Tek

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Sure I'll get corrected here..but I think the midrange lean issue on the earlier CFI was due in part to the 4injector set up(leaning out switching between the upper&lower injectors). Not sure what the fuel map for that set up would do on the newer 2inj set up..anyways, just trying to keep this thread going, lots of good info on here!

Could not agree more...

The Dragon and the Pro share the same poor designed pistons and the same crank.. But the 4 inj system was a problem..

My suggestion is to get a fuel control box to help with the poor stock mapping

Get the some good pistons in there

Get a better crank in there (2013 crank)

Then you have a good sled that will be much more reliable..
 

neilsleder

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Sell it, and buy a Pro! I would give Chris a call @ Parkland Motorsports in Stony, he knows the dragons inside and out, and knows what works and doesn't on them.

I like Deano's idea @ Mad Motorsports of raising the cylinders out of the case. That kit should work very well and will allow for some great porting options. Can't wait to hear more about it!

If Deano is selling it the kit will work! He don't sell stuff doesn't work!


Sent while sitting on the toilet when I should be working!
 
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