haha.. the good ole cold start puke.. mine used to do that before i got my injectors done. I replaced my air intake with a AFE stage 2.. theres a big restriction in the intake tube to the turbo.. put that apart and you'll see what i mean. :d
Good and Bad 2006 Dodge Diesel?
- Thread starter OVERKILL 19
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haha.. the good ole cold start puke.. mine used to do that before i got my injectors done. I replaced my air intake with a AFE stage 2.. theres a big restriction in the intake tube to the turbo.. put that apart and you'll see what i mean. :d
T.O.B.C
Active member
I'm on my second dodge, it's a 2006 3500Megacab Laramie with the cummins 5.9 . It's at 100000KM with no problems. I specificaly got a standard because of the reliabilty. I won't drive anything but a Dodge but I don't think there automatic trans are that great, especially in a diesel application. I would expect to get at least get 400000KM out of a standard, just my two cents.
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- #43
OVERKILL 19
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If you chip a 5.9, air filter and nothing to crazy HP wise what tranny mods do you have to do. Can you throw a torq converter in and good to go, or do you have to change a bunch of internals?
fat tire
Active VIP Member
I have an 05 with 120k on it full load 2500 cummins........Bought an 07 and ended up gettin rid of it ( too many problems to be reliable) so then we bought a new ford..... long story should have kept the dodge .... a buddy of a buddy ended up with the thing off of fords lot for about 8 grand more then what they gave me on the trade..... he's never had an issue witht he thing............. but the 05 has been a great truck and I can't bear to part with it ......
for mild hp.. you would be safe with a torque converter and a valve body. anything more than mild your going to want upgraded clutch plates m billet internal etc. i went the route with mild upgrades and it held fine but when i stacked it was enough to hold the power. id also reccommend a deep tranny pan to help keep it cooler.. heat kills these transmissions. well it kills all of em :d
rockiemountainmike
Member
Get a 5.9 with a manual transmission and you will have no problems.
'Pushing clutches' is better than opening ones wallet way too often for dodges well known weak automatic transmissions.
Especially if you want to let the Cummins breathe with complete intake, exhaust, and a moderate chip.
Front end OEM suspension wear is normal, a Cummins is very heavy engine. Replace the OEM ball joints, U-joints, and rod ends with top quality aftermarket. And be sure u can gresae them and do grease them regularly and your costs will plummit.
'Pushing clutches' is better than opening ones wallet way too often for dodges well known weak automatic transmissions.
Especially if you want to let the Cummins breathe with complete intake, exhaust, and a moderate chip.
Front end OEM suspension wear is normal, a Cummins is very heavy engine. Replace the OEM ball joints, U-joints, and rod ends with top quality aftermarket. And be sure u can gresae them and do grease them regularly and your costs will plummit.
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- #47
OVERKILL 19
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My wife will drive the truck once and awhile so the manual is out of the ?, I have no problem pulling the tranny and putting a converter/shift kit in or what ever else it may need.
What aftermarket ball joints ,etc are you suggesting?
Carli for ball joints no question if you will keep the truck. They are offering a package deal for $800 for all four, but they will outlast the truck so they are WELL worth it. U-joints i'm not overaly partial, I went with non greaseable considering how many km I got out of my originals and I am a bit scared of breaking some u-joints because some greaseable ones it affects the strength (not a problem for a near stock truck). I went with the 08 upgraded steering, $450 from dodge it is a good setup, I had 140k on my old stock stuff (non upgraded) and it was still fine I just needed an alignment from a lift and 1 had a torn boot so I just replaced it, but all joints were in good shape. Moog stuff is no better, yea it is greaseable and the stock isn't, but it will still last a LONG time and moog isn't anything great. If you want much power and pull with a auto, be prepared to pay $6000-$8000k for a tranny. I personally would take a 6 speed even if you need to teach the wife how to drive it. All you need is upgraded hydralics and a good clutch and my truck will be fine for 600 RWHP, that is in the near future :d
The front end isn't as bad as everyone claims. I am at 140k and i've done axle shaft u-joints and 1 rear driveshaft u-joint, and steering (but the rods still had a LOT of life left). Ball joints, front driveshaft is all stock. And I have 8" lift on 38's with a heavy front bumper so my truck isn't exactly easy on these parts.
The front end isn't as bad as everyone claims. I am at 140k and i've done axle shaft u-joints and 1 rear driveshaft u-joint, and steering (but the rods still had a LOT of life left). Ball joints, front driveshaft is all stock. And I have 8" lift on 38's with a heavy front bumper so my truck isn't exactly easy on these parts.
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- #49
OVERKILL 19
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Anyone know the payload/towing specs on a 2500 vs 3500 can't seam to find a 3500 that has not been beat to death! I bet I've looked at 10 trucks so far from Edmonton to Brooks. Its getting old! Thinking about going to a 2500. I even looked at a 2008 Ford...........Good lord, not sure what I was on that day LOL. But I want to be able to haul 2 quads/sleds and pull a trailer...some day!
Mr.Plow
Active VIP Member
I got a 2005 and have to replace the front ball joints, what manufactural do you guys recomend using? Looking for ones that can be greased.
not interested in OEM if they are going to wear out again.
Junior Highmark
Active VIP Member
Pm Summitric overkill, He has a 2006 3500 mega cab.
I got a 2005 and have to replace the front ball joints, what manufactural do you guys recomend using? Looking for ones that can be greased.
If your going to keep the truck for long enough, buy carli, all 4 for $800 US. Never ever worry about ball joints again.
Mr.Plow
Active VIP Member
good to know, thanks. plan on keeping it for at least the next 5 years. Is there a distributor in Canada or are they mail order only???
Not really sure, but chances are anyone in canada will pillage you on the price anyways. Maybe look on carlis site they might list some? I think HRT or something in okotoks might?
I am still trying to find out for sure, but the 2500 and 3500 SRW is the EXACT same drivetrain the only difference is overloads on the 3500. The door stickers say 9000 gvw on a 2500 pending the year and 9900 on a 3500 srw pending the year. Towing is a bit different to. However the axle ratings together are about 11600. I am not 100% sure on this, but I THINK you can LEGALLY haul 11600 on either, as long as tires, etc are good for that. Someone correct me if i'm wrong......But even 9900 on a 3500 is nothing, I have had my truck over 11000 so many times, it's nothing for weight.
Mr.Plow
Active VIP Member
Got price form HRT Offroad (Okotoks, AB) on a set of CARLI upper and lower ball joints, $600 for each set. $1200 for ball joints is a little much. does any one know of another brand who provides grease able ball joints for a Dodge???
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- #57
OVERKILL 19
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Found a 08 with 28000km full load with $4000 in extras for $42 but someone beat me 2 it....
That's the problem, places in canada are stupid with a lot of prices. There is XRF and dynatracs that seem to be ok, but if I remember right both had recalls on them and having problems. XRF are around $300 I think, dynatrac around $600, all US prices. When did you get that price? Carli pretty recently offered the package deal for both of them and the price dropped a TON from what it was expected to be. Before I think it was about $600 for just the lowers.
Regardless, the carlis are the best hands down. For me i'd rather spend a couple hundred more and never ever worry about ball joints again. With shipping, exchange, brokerage you could have carlis on your doorstep for $950 max. It really depends though, I am buying them because I will keep my truck for another 10 years atleast, and I run 38" tires so I know I will be doing the front end again if I don't buy the best parts.
Regardless, the carlis are the best hands down. For me i'd rather spend a couple hundred more and never ever worry about ball joints again. With shipping, exchange, brokerage you could have carlis on your doorstep for $950 max. It really depends though, I am buying them because I will keep my truck for another 10 years atleast, and I run 38" tires so I know I will be doing the front end again if I don't buy the best parts.
If your looking to spend that much why don't you check to see if any dealers got any new 09's left? You could buy a 08 fully loaded new for 50k when it was a model year old....If anyone has a 09 left it will be cheap.
Otherwise what exactly are you looking for that you can't find? I will keep my eye out.
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- #60
OVERKILL 19
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Most dealers want$42000- $46000 plus tax for a 07 with 80000km Sherwood park dodge want $over 60 for thier 08's
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