For Side Winder rider's

[Clode]

I don't know if this helps, but when I first built my t-nytro I ran the stock gearing, and I popped a belt. I geared it up to take advantage of the added hp and to load the motor and the clutch heat was less and belt life is great.

 

[Lund]

Pretty quiet thread this season unfortunately...

Myself, I had a slow winter on the working front so I was able to ride around 800 miles so far this season on the Sidewinder annnd it was great.

I was able to track down a full set of Fox Float QS3's which made a world of difference once I got them dialed in. That lockout shock is an awesome option to have.

For riding out west I went with Lunds recommendations on the 8LR yam weight loaded to 73grams. Was very consistent higher up in elevation, but I did manage to hit the rev limiter a couple times in the right circumstances at lower elevation in the trees.

58-62 MPH track speed was what I was seeing in the different snow conditions and temps. Sled is running CR intake and exhaust, stock tune and stock MTX gearing of 21/49 and the stock powerclaw 3" track.

Which brings me to my next issue that I'll need some insight on, the track. I must have tagged something under the snow on the last day we were out west. My track started coming apart on the way out of renshaw, first a strip on the inside, then a whole lug....

So the big question is... what track to go with.. options are somewhat limited for the 162x3 3.0 pitch from what I've been able to find.

So what does a guy get ?
Another powerclaw?
Epic 280 (9407M) ?
ChallengerX3 (9220M)?
ChallengerX 3.2 (9319M)?

Orrrr go to 3.5 pitch and try and get ahold of the 2.75 poo track ?

Do these single ply tracks last on the boosted 4 strokes ?

Thanks for any insight.
View attachment 224055View attachment 224056View attachment 224057View attachment 224058View attachment 224059View attachment 224060

Nice job on the track, I have a similar problem and will be replacing it for next season except I run a 174 and last time out it turned over 4,000miles.
The track you want is the 9220, its the best track to run on a turbo Yamaha.
The Powder claws are way to soft for the torque the SW makes, under load it folds over.
Stay away from single ply's, the SW will rip that up in no time and as for the Challenger 3.2" I have not heard much about it as not many installing them.

 

[Lund]

For the guys that doo ride around home (3000 feet and below) I was able to make the 8LR weights work relatively well.

First off the 8LR at 73 grams they are a huge improvement over the stock MTX weights. Way less belt dust too, I was still hitting the rev limiter way too often.

I found a set of 8FS weights locally, loaded them to 80 grams using the yam rivets... and that was a no go, slammed the rev limiter at half throttle... alright out with those back to the 8LRs

I went and visited a few of my local suppliers and tracked down some different rivets to use instead of the yam ones. Found a few options that worked, metric rivets are a huge PITA to get so standard 1/4" it was.

In order to make the 1/4" rivets fit into the yam weights you will have to drill out the weight a 32nd to let the 1/4" rivet to slide through.

I was able to load up the 8LR to 78 grams using a rivet and a couple washers. This worked quite good. Would maybe hit the rev limiter maybe once per ride ride, other wise rpms are right around 8900-9000, so I think I'll get a longer rivet and shoot for 80 grams overall.

I'm not sure whether to add some weight to the middle to achieve this or to keep it all at the tip...

I did also try the 24/50 gearing with the 8LRs at 78grams at home... lost some track speed in 2' of snow full load,full cat walk. However that day when I tested the gearing I was getting the SD26 code anytime I held the throttle wide open for more than 4 seconds.

I spoke with my dealer about it and yamaha has a bulletin out for the recirculating vacuum line that goes from the recirc valve assembly to the air box. It is to be unhooked from the air box and let vent to atmosphere due to ice forming in that line.

So we did that, and dielectric greased all the connections by the ECU, tightened up all charge pipe clamps, and I did not have those code come on again in 6 days of mountain riding.

I did switch back to the 21/49 gearing before heading west...

What fun that chaincase is with the damn engine oil tank being part of the coverView attachment 224062View attachment 224064View attachment 224065

Once you find a profile you and your sled likes, its ok to use hardware with loc-tite(nuts and bolts) in the holes. A few of my hardcore crew have setup clutches that way using steel, brass and aluminum hardware to find their perfect tune to suit their riding.
Just remember the hole at the heel(base) is low end, middle hole is mid range while the tip hole is 2/3 throttle to WOT.

 

[Lund]

One issue I have been having is the Pimary rollers, the bushing keeps pushing itself out of the roller. First it was just the one, I pressed the bushing back in once, was good after that ride, and back to the same after the second. Pushed it back in again a second time and it only made half the ride before it moved again. Replaced that one and went to the hills.

Halfway through the trip, another one started pushing it's way out, so changed that one out and everything was good for the rest of the trip.

One thing consistent is that bushing is sliding out in the direction of engine rotation.

Soo what's the fix for this little headache ??View attachment 224067View attachment 224068View attachment 224069

Replace all the bushing's together. Its not an uncommon problem even though they might feel good the bushing will travel out when the press fit is no longer.
Don't forget, there is a cost to big power and torque, parts like bushings are under more extreme stresses.

 

[Lund]

I don't know if this helps, but when I first built my t-nytro I ran the stock gearing, and I popped a belt. I geared it up to take advantage of the added hp and to load the motor and the clutch heat was less and belt life is great.

Gearing up when you have the power is never a bad thing, like you say done correctly it will wake the power up. I run tall gears in the SW for a 174.

 

[Lund]

Thank you guys for all the great posts. I'm just running through mine right now as we're calling it a season. We didn't get in the normal number of ride days but was good for what it was.

My sled is all stock tune, clutching and gearing, just over 3000 kms on it. Pulls like a G-D freight train.

Mods done:
-update to 2018+ intake mesh extra panels beside steering post
-CR Resonator pipe (with muff pot yo!)

I would like to play with a clutch setup this year and looking for advice. Unless traction is decent, I can get the sled on the rev limiter. We ride mostly trees and play areas, and do like to climb but it's smaller part of our typical day.

What do you guys think for weights, springs, etc.? I am going to replace primary rollers as they don't sound great, what else should I do while in there?

Cheers guys

If the sound your hearing is a kind of rattle at idle you might be hearing the stub shaft rattle. It is a very common noise from both the Genesis 1049 and 998 motors.
I would inspect the clutch but more likely it will be ok with only 3,000km from the kind of riding you describe and its likely the stub shaft making the noise.

 

[brettallen517]

This is an older post and hasn’t been added to in a few years, got my setup where I think it’s pretty good. I ride trees and do a fair bit of climbing. My setup was pulling 79-83mph of track speed this last weekend in 2-3’ of fresh snow. I’m running the mcxpress stage 3 at 21psi. Currently have the stock sidewinder primary with black and blue dalton spring, sting ray mods flat profile weights loaded to 105g. Secondary is off a nytro with a straight cut 47 helix and epi purple spring wound tight. Tki belt drive running 2.42 ratio, stock drivers and a 174x3 track. Sled is clutched to hold 8750-8900 and pulls like a freight train.

 

[MK4TDI]

This is an older post and hasn’t been added to in a few years, got my setup where I think it’s pretty good. I ride trees and do a fair bit of climbing. My setup was pulling 79-83mph of track speed this last weekend in 2-3’ of fresh snow. I’m running the mcxpress stage 3 at 21psi. Currently have the stock sidewinder primary with black and blue dalton spring, sting ray mods flat profile weights loaded to 105g. Secondary is off a nytro with a straight cut 47 helix and epi purple spring wound tight. Tki belt drive running 2.42 ratio, stock drivers and a 174x3 track. Sled is clutched to hold 8750-8900 and pulls like a freight train.

Saw your video, that sled rips....

 

[brettallen517]

Saw your video, that sled rips....

Thanks! There’s still more to get out of it for sure, I’ll be in Revelstoke mid March, see how she pulls out of a few of the bullpen chutes

 

[Kibbels]

Thanks! There’s still more to get out of it for sure, I’ll be in Revelstoke mid March, see how she pulls out of a few of the bullpen chutes

I’ll meet you there I will message u … I will bring the 310 MCX Nytro 174 see comparison on yur beast ( we just put my old 310 MCX box on this sled) be cool to compare.. NOT in handling lol… you’ve had the nypigs
also running 47 purple - will bring the door stop along (shockwave) never had perfect success with it but may use when we run out of weight…

 

[brettallen517]

I’ll meet you there I will message u … I will bring the 310 MCX Nytro 174 see comparison on yur beast ( we just put my old 310 MCX box on this sled) be cool to compare.. NOT in handling lol… you’ve had the nypigs
also running 47 purple - will bring the door stop along (shockwave) never had perfect success with it but may use when we run out of weight…

Sounds good! Gonna be a good time, should be 8-10 high horsepower 4 strokes between a few of us coming up and the Creek Werx crew.

 

[Kibbels]

Sounds good! Gonna be a good time, should be 8-10 high horsepower 4 strokes between a few of us coming up and the Creek Werx crew.

Yikes those guys nuts lol… but we will try some chutes if timing works out.

 

[Boostday]

Hi guys. I have a standard Sidewinder BTX 153 LE 2020 model year sled. I ride on rivers and deep snow. My belts are constantly tearing up. The clutch is very hot. What can you advise to get away from the problem? The upper gear is 24T, the lower 50T. Perhaps stiffer springs and a different helix will get rid of the problems?

 

[Lund]

Hi guys. I have a standard Sidewinder BTX 153 LE 2020 model year sled. I ride on rivers and deep snow. My belts are constantly tearing up. The clutch is very hot. What can you advise to get away from the problem? The upper gear is 24T, the lower 50T. Perhaps stiffer springs and a different helix will get rid of the problems?

The gearing is too tall for what your trying to do, the weights, primary spring and cam(helix) are fine but you should be running the EPI PURPLE spring.
Give that a whirl.

 

[Boostday]

EPI PURPLE on the secondary clutch?

Can I set the gear train to 21T and leave the standard chain of 92 links?

 

[Lund]

EPI PURPLE on the secondary clutch?

Can I set the gear train to 21T and leave the standard chain of 92 links?

Yes, secondary.
21T is good, the chain you will have to do your homework. It maybe too long, but maybe not.
Its a trial and error.

 

[Boostday]

Can anyone tell me how to properly adjust the torsion of a standard spring, while I'm waiting for the EPI PURPLE spring. The standard spring was 3-3. What parameters are needed to ride in deep snow on a standard spring? 6-1? 6-2?