- Thread starter
- #61
So does it look like my reeds need to be replaced?
I have 8 tooth extroverted drivers and a 19-45 right now.
Summer Sled Work on '04 Summit
- Thread starter ~Rowdy~
- Start date
So does it look like my reeds need to be replaced?
I have 8 tooth extroverted drivers and a 19-45 right now.
tex78
Active VIP Member
yes it needs reeds......
i would say if ur looking for lower i would say no..... i was at 19-47 with 9 tooth and a 151 and found track speed toped out to fast [ at a slower speed ]... so i put the 45 back in and seems better now.... i weigh 200 plus so
i would say if ur looking for lower i would say no..... i was at 19-47 with 9 tooth and a 151 and found track speed toped out to fast [ at a slower speed ]... so i put the 45 back in and seems better now.... i weigh 200 plus so
snopro
Active VIP Member
If you pull that bottom gear off don't forget to put some locktite on the retaining bolt when you put it all back together Rowdy. :d
- Thread starter
- #64
- Thread starter
- #65
So for the airbox, when the LHS opening was totally loose and slid right off, this seems bad to me. Do I need any new parts for my airbox?
Someone advised me to get an airbox off an '07 and use it. What benefit does this give me? Would I need the airbox off the Summit Adrenaline 800R, 2007?
Or is mine fine as is even though the LHS slid right off?
Someone advised me to get an airbox off an '07 and use it. What benefit does this give me? Would I need the airbox off the Summit Adrenaline 800R, 2007?
Or is mine fine as is even though the LHS slid right off?
Last edited:
maxwell
Active VIP Member
airbox is fine. just ensure the screws are tight. obviously they werent. or theree is a rubber grrommet in there that goes around the carb intake. possibly thatis missing or damaged.
07 intake will give you ZERO gain.
07 intake will give you ZERO gain.
tex78
Active VIP Member
what yes it does..... even on a 600ho..... it was enought that it leaned it out to screw a pistion.... and it was jetted rich [ stock before ]
- Thread starter
- #68
tex78
Active VIP Member
well no.... get one.... just keep the stock 400's in [ some guys went down to 380's with out the 07 airbox.... ] just need 20 pilots in stead od 17.5's
- Thread starter
- #70
Ok you are speaking greek to me. So get a new airbox for an '04? Whats this 400's and 380's and 20 pilots you are speaking of!?
tex78
Active VIP Member
the main carb jets and the pilots jets in the bowl of the carb....
stay stock 400's [ mains ] and go to 20 pilots from 17.5 pilots....
the pilots are for the above idle to midrange..... thats where doo's are lean [ have u ever noticed an haging high idle ect when not up real high [ elevation ] ??? cuase its running border killing the engine lean
takethebounce
Active VIP Member
If you don't want to throw away some money, don't go looking to buy an airbox from an '07. If you can get one for free then sure, throw it in there.
Don't expect any gains from it. Atleast any gains you are going to feel in the seat of your pants.
If you were wanting to fatten up the mid range you would shim the needle, but you are not going to.
Show me proof that an airbox caused an already rich sled to burn down. Could have been anything that cause it.
The '07 airbox isn't adding any more air to the carbs.
What you should do though is find out if your carbs jets have been changed away from the stock ones.
- Thread starter
- #73
maxwell
Active VIP Member
If you have factory 21-45 try 20-45 or 21-47 but bottom gears are more pricy
takethebounce
Active VIP Member
So I totally overlooked you went to 8 tooth from 10 tooths when you asked about gearing before.
I know you will get a few responses, but I had posted this for you already, maybe some gearing guru's on here can chime in.
Prior to doing any track and driver changes her sled was (and still is) geared 19/45 with the 10 tooths. Idealy a 19/47 is what I would run and is what I did run in my '04. Many others also run it.
Looking at the gearing ratio and speed calculations for that and now with 8 tooth drivers we can compare the results.. Yes I know top speed isn't the result we are looking for but using the top speed as an indication to what gear ratio to run with the 8 tooth drivers will help. Remember the 8t's will give almost a %20 reduction.
current 19/45(2.36 ratio) with stock 10 tooth (25.20 circumference) gives about an 82 mph top speed.
19/47(2.47) with 10t is about 79mph (which is good)
19/45 with 8t(20.16 cir) dropped to about 66mph.
To get back to the 79 mph range I would go to a 23/45 and a 74 link chain.
23/45 with 8t's is 79.8 mph, back in the (19/47 with 10t's) range of top speed.
my .02 cents.
I know you will get a few responses, but I had posted this for you already, maybe some gearing guru's on here can chime in.
Prior to doing any track and driver changes her sled was (and still is) geared 19/45 with the 10 tooths. Idealy a 19/47 is what I would run and is what I did run in my '04. Many others also run it.
Looking at the gearing ratio and speed calculations for that and now with 8 tooth drivers we can compare the results.. Yes I know top speed isn't the result we are looking for but using the top speed as an indication to what gear ratio to run with the 8 tooth drivers will help. Remember the 8t's will give almost a %20 reduction.
current 19/45(2.36 ratio) with stock 10 tooth (25.20 circumference) gives about an 82 mph top speed.
19/47(2.47) with 10t is about 79mph (which is good)
19/45 with 8t(20.16 cir) dropped to about 66mph.
To get back to the 79 mph range I would go to a 23/45 and a 74 link chain.
23/45 with 8t's is 79.8 mph, back in the (19/47 with 10t's) range of top speed.
my .02 cents.
- Thread starter
- #76
Depending on sled and conditions, the calcs are good on paper, as the theory is sound but don't forget your speedo is driven off the drive shaft which is the final drive of the motor rpm. If the top speed readings were measured from speedo in the example above, then they are incorrect because the speedo reading will be faster than actual ground speed if the drivers are smaller (less linear distance travelled for each rotation of the driveshaft).
The speedo drive is calc'ed to say that one revolution of the drive shaft is "X" number of feet/meters. Once you change the driver diameter, you pull more or less track around the drivers for each revolution, so if you are going off the speedo of the sled your gearing calcs will be off because your ground speed will be less with the smaller drivers.
Usually - bigger drivers you gear down to compensate, smaller drivers you gear up to compensate - so the 23/45 makes sense to me but not because of the actual math, but only on the theory. There is no magic calculator for this, its about real world testing, and things like clutching will also play a part in how your gearing works.
You want to be able to pull the gearing for a full hill at peak RPM, and most of the time you can only determine that by real testing. 23/45 will probably get it close, but keep in mind that it might be warranted to gear down slightly because 80 mph is almost 130 kph and there is not too many places I ride that I hit that speed. That for me is on the very outside of the top speed for a mountain sled, my preference is 115-120 kph max unless there is a lot of big open terrain. Only way to really know is to get it on the snow and try it.
The speedo drive is calc'ed to say that one revolution of the drive shaft is "X" number of feet/meters. Once you change the driver diameter, you pull more or less track around the drivers for each revolution, so if you are going off the speedo of the sled your gearing calcs will be off because your ground speed will be less with the smaller drivers.
Usually - bigger drivers you gear down to compensate, smaller drivers you gear up to compensate - so the 23/45 makes sense to me but not because of the actual math, but only on the theory. There is no magic calculator for this, its about real world testing, and things like clutching will also play a part in how your gearing works.
You want to be able to pull the gearing for a full hill at peak RPM, and most of the time you can only determine that by real testing. 23/45 will probably get it close, but keep in mind that it might be warranted to gear down slightly because 80 mph is almost 130 kph and there is not too many places I ride that I hit that speed. That for me is on the very outside of the top speed for a mountain sled, my preference is 115-120 kph max unless there is a lot of big open terrain. Only way to really know is to get it on the snow and try it.
takethebounce
Active VIP Member
The only reason I put the calculations were to help me explain why I would change my suggestion to gear up rather than down which is what I had suggested before.
Those are gearing/driver calcs based on maximum top speed at a given rpm.
I am not suggesting to try and go 80 mph everywhere if anywhere.
Modman's explanation of track vs ground speed makes sense. And gearing for best mph track speed at peak rpm at full shift is indeed what you want.
You can try and run the 19/47 as some other people suggest. It won't cost you anything as you can have the 47 I have sitting in the garage.
And yes real world testing is your only true way to confirm what will work best.
Those are gearing/driver calcs based on maximum top speed at a given rpm.
I am not suggesting to try and go 80 mph everywhere if anywhere.
Modman's explanation of track vs ground speed makes sense. And gearing for best mph track speed at peak rpm at full shift is indeed what you want.
You can try and run the 19/47 as some other people suggest. It won't cost you anything as you can have the 47 I have sitting in the garage.
And yes real world testing is your only true way to confirm what will work best.
I think your calcs are good, didn't mean that post to sound condescending in anyway, just trying to add more pieces of the puzzle. I really meant the statement "If the top speed readings were measured from speedo in the example above" because I don't know if they were, the track speeds listed are pretty precise so I thought maybe this was some flatland, straightline testing that was really done (which is totally fine we have to start somewhere and the theory stays the same for flat or vertical riding). The 80 mph would be about what an 800 class sled runs in the 500' range, so again, I was thinking this might be from real testing. 80 mph is fine if you can pull it and not trench off the start or at low speeds. I've got one sled with a ratio of 1.78 and it doesn't plug along at 20 mph very well.....
I only made my comments because I've seen it before where people increased the driver size, then couldn't pull the same trackspeed or RPM because they forgot that the speedo is calibrated to read off the stock diameter drivers (and I also have a box full of gears)...
- Thread starter
- #80
Here's my parts list so far. Doesn't include anything for clutching yet, taking them apart next week. Looking into new shocks and springs...ugh...pricey.
- RH Tunnel Stiffener, SKU: 518324096, $32.39
- Attache Dr, SKU: 518323187, $26.99
- Bracket, SKU: 518323188, $26.99
- Renfort de Coin, SKU: 518324181, $9.37 x 2
- Renfort de Plaque, SKU: 518324109, $71.54
- Front Plate, SKU: 518325422, $14.99
- Support Arriere, SKU: 506151854, $21.14
- Traverse Centrale, SKU: 518324093, $32.39
- Butee, SKU:512059738, $11.24 x 2
- Bumper, SKU: 502006679, $89.99 x 2
- Spark Plugs, SKU: 512059552, $4.80 x 10
- Belt, SKU: 417300383, $103.49
- 74 Link Drive Chain, SKU: 504151857, $78.74
- 22 Tooth Sprocket, SKU: 504091100, $38.24
- 21 Took Sproket from maxwell $20.00
If anyone has any line of any of this stuff cheaper, let me know! I am looking at CAD files to cut some of the bracing myself out of 1/8" aluminum.
- RH Tunnel Stiffener, SKU: 518324096, $32.39
- Attache Dr, SKU: 518323187, $26.99
- Bracket, SKU: 518323188, $26.99
- Renfort de Coin, SKU: 518324181, $9.37 x 2
- Renfort de Plaque, SKU: 518324109, $71.54
- Front Plate, SKU: 518325422, $14.99
- Support Arriere, SKU: 506151854, $21.14
- Traverse Centrale, SKU: 518324093, $32.39
- Butee, SKU:512059738, $11.24 x 2
- Bumper, SKU: 502006679, $89.99 x 2
- Spark Plugs, SKU: 512059552, $4.80 x 10
- Belt, SKU: 417300383, $103.49
- 74 Link Drive Chain, SKU: 504151857, $78.74
- 22 Tooth Sprocket, SKU: 504091100, $38.24
- 21 Took Sproket from maxwell $20.00
If anyone has any line of any of this stuff cheaper, let me know! I am looking at CAD files to cut some of the bracing myself out of 1/8" aluminum.
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