Storing your sled

[LandonNedeljak]

I have 2011 M8, i want to get ready to store it for the summer here, what should be done, drain the gas or use a stabalizer, and just leave the 2 stroke oil alone? and what is fogging mean? thanks for any input..

 

[MATTIAC]

It also depends whether it's indoors or outdoors. Most guys add stabilizer and leave the oil alone. Fogging is adding a heavy oil cost sort of speak to the engine to keep it well lubricated while it sits. You can go out and fire up your sled once a month if you don't fog it.

If its in your garage or something fogging isn't really required. More so if it's outside under a tarp or something.


I didn't fog mine last summer rather just went and fired it up once or twice a month and let it idle to operating temp. I stabilized the fuel but didn't fill it up so that I could put mostly fresh fuel in for first ride. I think filling the tank is proper to avoid condensation in there which adds water to your fuel. Not sure. Mine stayed in my garage all summer. I also grease it change chain case oil and clean clutches

 

[plio7]

I never fog... Put in stabilizer, change Dd oil depending on miles you put on this year. Run it with the stabilizer until it warms up, grease and tarp

 

[gibsons]

once a month I just go fire them up, thats all i've done for the past 10 years and seems to work fine.

 

[Pawel]

once a month I just go fire them up, thats all i've done for the past 10 years and seems to work fine.

X2 just fire it up once a month

 

[polarisdragon800]

X2 just fire it up once a month

X3 start it once a month. Leave a bit if gas in it at the end of season. Then put fresh in at the beginning if the season.

 

[briguy99]

a lil stabil...1/4 tank of fuel.....hit the summerize button.....store with track suspended....thats all for my E-Tech
.........but thats not happening for at least a month yet........

 

[Mike270412]

I'll think about summerizing when I'm done riding

 

[hevy_chevy67]

I run an etec, so my summerization is pretty straight forward.

But everyone seems to be for starting them once a month. I might be in the minority here, but my opinion is that I would not want to run my sled every month. Even with stabilizer in the fuel, I wouldn't want to run poor fuel through my sled. I would add fuel stabilizer and fill the tank right up so no condensation can build in the tank, park it and do not run it during the summer, and then in the fall drain and add fresh fuel.

 

[neilsleder]

I like the idea of starting it once a month, that's what I do! And that way you get to smell two stroke smoke to help you through the summer!

 

[Mike270412]

Ok I'm done now.I siphon out as much fuel as I can,put some stabalizer in what's left,and fire them up once in a while.

I'll think about summerizing when I'm done riding

 

[Showtime]

Here's my procedure......wash sleds down, blow off with air, drain majority of fuel and add stabilizer......run the sled for awhile to bring it right up to temperature, this alows the stabiler to work its way through out the fuel system. Grease all the suspension components forcing out any water, mine is stored in a shop so once its parked i put roughly a table spoon of oil down each cylinder and spin the clutch a few times, reinstall plugs, duct tape off exhaust for pesty mice, suspend sled front and back so no weight on suspension, give the hood tunnels etc a final detail/ polish job, throw on the tarp and walk away til next year. Usually i will change the chaincase oil in the fall before the next season.

 

[~Rowdy~]

Here's my procedure......wash sleds down, blow off with air, drain majority of fuel and add stabilizer......run the sled for awhile to bring it right up to temperature, this alows the stabiler to work its way through out the fuel system. Grease all the suspension components forcing out any water, mine is stored in a shop so once its parked i put roughly a table spoon of oil down each cylinder and spin the clutch a few times, reinstall plugs, duct tape off exhaust for pesty mice, suspend sled front and back so no weight on suspension, give the hood tunnels etc a final detail/ polish job, throw on the tarp and walk away til next year. Usually i will change the chaincase oil in the fall before the next season.

Do you fog your sled too? I'm trying to decide if I should fog mine this summer or not and also if I should fill up the gas tank or drain it. My sleds always been in pieces in the summer, but this should be the first time I won't have to tear her apart! Yay!

 

[SidewaysInto3rd]

Do you fog your sled too? I'm trying to decide if I should fog mine this summer or not and also if I should fill up the gas tank or drain it. My sleds always been in pieces in the summer, but this should be the first time I won't have to tear her apart! Yay!

How are you going to put in your 860 big bore and drop your chaincase for the 3" track without tearing her apart ?

 

[~Rowdy~]

How are you going to put in your 860 big bore and drop your chaincase for the 3" track without tearing her apart ?

haha is that what you are doing P? No parts for me aside from a wire set. Hallelujah! About friggin time. Spend my money making my garage purty instead.

 

[SidewaysInto3rd]

haha is that what you are doing P? No parts for me aside from a wire set. Hallelujah! About friggin time. Spend my money making my garage purty instead.

I was planning on doing that .. but then I rode the damn XM and had to get one

 

[Trax 2 Treadz]

For us a full tank of fuel with stabil, grease the suspension, and desiccant plugs in the cylinders. I then check the plugs once in a while during the summer and regenerate the plugs as needed. Oil changes on the chain cases and/or diamond drive in the fall.

 

[RMK Junky]

I have 2011 M8, i want to get ready to store it for the summer here, what should be done, drain the gas or use a stabalizer, and just leave the 2 stroke oil alone? and what is fogging mean? thanks for any input..

Do as your owners manual says. This will cover your a$$ if there are any warranty issuses. As you can see alot of riders do the same thing. Clean, service, fog, cover, and then store. There are a few little things to consider also but to each their own. This is my ritual...

1) Wash unit by hand. This gets you up close to go over the sled for any small injuries or inperfections you missed through out the season. Make a list and repair.
2) Grease all available pivot points. I also use WD-40 on all ball joints to small for a grease nipple. Check the chaincase for excess filings on the mag tip. Clean and or change chain case oil if neccessary. It might be do anyway according to mileage. Wipe excess grease from fittings and lube from ball joints. It's also good to check all your electrical connections for moisture and apply electrical grease if you see fit to combat moisture. I also clean my clutch's at this point.
3) Start and fog the engine. When I do this the mileage and hours are documented for service records. I then drain the fuel and top off the oil. I don't use any fuel stableizer and haven't fouled a plug yet upon startup. I also pull the belts out and store them on the shelf. Then the sleds are put in the garage. The track is blocked up off the floor (prevents curling of lugs) and then it's covered.

Fogging your sled is good if you don't plan on starting it through out it's hybernation. This lubes bottom end bearings and seals. But if you want to put fresh gas in and start it up that works to. I've done this in the past. I'd bring them out and put the belt back on. Fire up and rotate the track just a little. After all, that two stroke smoke smells good

 

[Modman]

Do as your owners manual says. This will cover your a$$ if there are any warranty issuses. As you can see alot of riders do the same thing. Clean, service, fog, cover, and then store. There are a few little things to consider also but to each their own. This is my ritual...

1) Wash unit by hand. This gets you up close to go over the sled for any small injuries or inperfections you missed through out the season. Make a list and repair.
2) Grease all available pivot points. I also use WD-40 on all ball joints to small for a grease nipple. Check the chaincase for excess filings on the mag tip. Clean and or change chain case oil if neccessary. It might be do anyway according to mileage. Wipe excess grease from fittings and lube from ball joints. It's also good to check all your electrical connections for moisture and apply electrical grease if you see fit to combat moisture. I also clean my clutch's at this point.
3) Start and fog the engine. When I do this the mileage and hours are documented for service records. I then drain the fuel and top off the oil. I don't use any fuel stableizer and haven't fouled a plug yet upon startup. I also pull the belts out and store them on the shelf. Then the sleds are put in the garage. The track is blocked up off the floor (prevents curling of lugs) and then it's covered.

Fogging your sled is good if you don't plan on starting it through out it's hybernation. This lubes bottom end bearings and seals. But if you want to put fresh gas in and start it up that works to. I've done this in the past. I'd bring them out and put the belt back on. Fire up and rotate the track just a little. After all, that two stroke smoke smells good

Pretty much same procedure as you and Showtime. Jacking up sled on blocks is a must to take weight off suspension. If you can't jack up the rear, then at least slip a 2x4 on edge between the lugs, this will prevent them from curling (as mentioned above) as the weight will be on the 2x4 and rails. Fogging is up to the individual, I personally don't, just start it now then, keeps fresh(er) fuel in the lines/carbs, any etec owners don't need to worry about it, just hit summerize on the panel and the sled does it automatically. I would also add:

Check and spin all bearings, replace as required.
Fix anything that is broke or worn (sliders etc)
Take the tension off the track adjusters and let the track sag, roll it around every now and then
Check coolant and replace if too acidic, not good for aluminum blocks

I read about this "Fluid Film" in a sled magazine and they were raving about it Fluid Film® | Corrosion Preventative, Lubricant and Rust Inhibitor I think I'm going to try it for storage this year, apparently it will keep things from corroding, oxidizing, rusting etc (like bolts, polished alum, chrome etc), just give the sled a good spray with it on the metal parts and it will keep them like new. Can get it Acklands up here it looks like.

 

[neilsleder]

Canadian tire sells fluid film. I like that stuff, I use it more then wd40! And it kind of smells like root beer. Lol