Oil injection oil

[pete gads]

I run ski-coo mineral oil from dealer, Buy 20l when they have there sales. Been running it since 2002 and have had no issues. I get 1 free jug by buying 20l on sale

 

[mxz800x]

I didn't think you could still get mineral oil from doo.

 

[skid]

I know it works

I don't recommend it

hahaha.. I'm kidding, I use royal purple 2 stroke

 

[X-it]

Two sleds I owned I used that cheap Castrol Oil crap in them, if only the speedometer did not quit in one of them. Well over 10,000 kilometer on both of them and still running. I bet the bravo has closer to 20000 kilometers on it.

 

[ZRrrr]

Shell full synthetic has always been good to me with my cats, have had an 08, 11, 12, and two 14's and all of them have ran well and logged many miles


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Used Shell Ultra Advance full synthetic for many, many years, on numerous two smokers. Excellent cold flow, low smell, and powervalves always stayed clean. Would buy a seasons worth when C-Tire would put it on sale in the fall. An excellent oil! Tried iPone, Blue Marble and numerous other really expensive synthetics. Always went back to the Shell Ultra Advance.

I run the leftover iPone in all the gas powered yard tools. Strawberry smell makes everyone think I'm being environmentally friendly...lol.

 

[meierjn]

Used Shell Ultra Advance full synthetic for many, many years, on numerous two smokers. Excellent cold flow, low smell, and powervalves always stayed clean. Would buy a seasons worth when C-Tire would put it on sale in the fall. An excellent oil! Tried iPone, Blue Marble and numerous other really expensive synthetics. Always went back to the Shell Ultra Advance.

I run the leftover iPone in all the gas powered yard tools. Strawberry smell makes everyone think I'm being environmentally friendly...lol.

I use it as well but its regular price at Walmart is cheaper than the sale price at Canadian Tire. $43 for a 5 liter jug.

 

[imdoo'n]

run polaris synthetic in all my skidoo's,

 

[sirkdev]

Used Shell Ultra Advance full synthetic for many, many years, on numerous two smokers. Excellent cold flow, low smell, and powervalves always stayed clean. Would buy a seasons worth when C-Tire would put it on sale in the fall. An excellent oil! Tried iPone, Blue Marble and numerous other really expensive synthetics. Always went back to the Shell Ultra Advance.

I run the leftover iPone in all the gas powered yard tools. Strawberry smell makes everyone think I'm being environmentally friendly...lol.

FYI there are differences with air cooled and liquid cooled or injected 2 stroke oil not the same I thought.... Maybe I am off base?

 

[Lund]

Something someone who is very particular about these sort of things may want to consider is how the manufacturer calibrates their oil injection system. Now is oil viscosity that important to oil pump function? I don't know, I am not an engineer so I leave it up to the internet wizards to deploy their wealth of knowledge on.

Just eye balling the pouring of my XPS Full Syn into the XM vs. the pour of my Polaris VES gold I would believe the XPS is "thinner" or lighter weight than the VES and pours quicker even when cold. I do not have a viscometer sitting on the self to actual quantify that eye ball observation but I would suspect an oil not of the same range of viscosity of the OEM suggested product could transfer differently. Yes there are manufacture equivalents and standards other non OEM oils are able to meet which have varying categories like flash point and detergent contents and so on.

So for that, I run what the manufacture suggests because I do not have the time or level of interest to actually search and find out what equals what. Oh yes I must be a sheep for doing such.

X2
Just wanted to add......are some of you so cheap that this thread has to even happen. DUH LETS SEE MAN...i BOUGHT MY toy for a POOP load of $$$$$, now LET ME GO CHEAP on OIL!!!.....maybe there is no $$$ for oil LOL hahaha
I'm not an engineer either, but i know not all oils are created equal.
OOH come on Danny you can't see the viscosity of that thinner oil, hold the bottle higher when you pour it LOL.

 

[Lund]

FYI there are differences with air cooled and liquid cooled or injected 2 stroke oil not the same I thought.... Maybe I am off base?

You are 100% correct and not off base.

 

[Lund]

I didn't think you could still get mineral oil from doo.

Ideally on any new motor that is the best oil to use for break in. Then after break in using the "same" brand oil you can introduce a semi or full synthetic oil.
The problem with going with full synthetic oil during break in is you stand a chance of never getting the piston rings to seat 100%. A very common problem with Nikasil plating and are at a higher risk of glazing the cylinder wall's. An issue you would not notice other then your motor will never make full potential power and in fact top end life can be shorten substantially. I have contribute this issue to performance differences between two of the same sleds in many cases more often then non.
And YES contrary to some belief's, you can just add the synthetic to the mineral after break in. It will mix but i only recommend that with the same brand oil's.

 

[X-it]

I have used shell ultra in my last sled... burns clean, and am using skidoos expensive stuff now. But man I am going to say it again that cheap Castrol crap the sleds motors last a long time with it. And if anyone cares to read all these threads, it is not just me commenting on this cheap oil and their sled motors lasting.

 

[Lund]

I have used shell ultra in my last sled... burns clean, and am using skidoos expensive stuff now. But man I am going to say it again that cheap Castrol crap the sleds motors last a long time with it. And if anyone cares to read all these threads, it is not just me commenting on this cheap oil and their sled motors lasting.

The cheaper oil's will work well on older sleds that are already worked in or even on newer sleds with a lot of K's on the motor. The biggest issue you will find with some of these low cost oil's is their inability of cleanliness, smoke and smell and heavy carbon deposits.
Generally these oils will cause your motor to run dirty and in time components like power valves will start sticking. Another indicator of a poor lubricant is the black goo that comes out of the pipe onto the shop floor when your sled sits. A simple check of how a motor is doing on the oil being used is looking through the Y pipe and checking the piston skirting and coloration of the piston below the rings. Also carbon buildup on the piston crown. Heavy black deposits is a big clue to poor oil, while a completely cleaned off crown will show a over fuel issue what your actually looking for is light tan or brown coloration that looks dry.

Over the years i have repaired motor for people who have used cheaper oils and during the tear down it is no problem to know this just by looking at pistons, piston rings and power valves. These are usually heavily carbon'ed and piston's show a lot of carbon below the rings, which is the #1 indicator of worn unseated rings. In most cases this can be directly related to poor oil being used as said above carbon is an issue with cheap oils. Carbon is unavoidable in motor's but something to remember is carbon is equivalent to your motor ingesting outside dust. Carbon will grind a motor in time to its death. So why use cheapo oil's in your loved investment?

BTW, cheap oil's generally will not cause bottom end issue as much as top end issues. Its not the lack of lubricating but more the inability to burn cleanly that causes many problem's. This also becomes very apparent with newer motors pushing very high HP, the oil needs to burn very clean or else carbon will win.

 

[tmo1620]

The cheaper oil's will work well on older sleds that are already worked in or even on newer sleds with a lot of K's on the motor. The biggest issue you will find with some of these low cost oil's is their inability of cleanliness, smoke and smell and heavy carbon deposits.
Generally these oils will cause your motor to run dirty and in time components like power valves will start sticking. Another indicator of a poor lubricant is the black goo that comes out of the pipe onto the shop floor when your sled sits. A simple check of how a motor is doing on the oil being used is looking through the Y pipe and checking the piston skirting and coloration of the piston below the rings. Also carbon buildup on the piston crown. Heavy black deposits is a big clue to poor oil, while a completely cleaned off crown will show a over fuel issue what your actually looking for is light tan or brown coloration that looks dry.

Over the years i have repaired motor for people who have used cheaper oils and during the tear down it is no problem to know this just by looking at pistons, piston rings and power valves. These are usually heavily carbon'ed and piston's show a lot of carbon below the rings, which is the #1 indicator of worn unseated rings. In most cases this can be directly related to poor oil being used as said above carbon is an issue with cheap oils. Carbon is unavoidable in motor's but something to remember is carbon is equivalent to your motor ingesting outside dust. Carbon will grind a motor in time to its death. So why use cheapo oil's in your loved investment?

BTW, cheap oil's generally will not cause bottom end issue as much as top end issues. Its not the lack of lubricating but more the inability to burn cleanly that causes many problem's. This also becomes very apparent with newer motors pushing very high HP, the oil needs to burn very clean or else carbon will win.

Cant say all cheap oils, shell advance full synthetic is cheap and works excellent...... in cats anyways, cant speak for others


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[pete gads]

picked up 19 litres today of ski-doo synthetic for 149.00. 7.84 a litre compared to 14.86.

 

[tex78]

picked up 19 litres today of ski-doo synthetic for 149.00. 7.84 a litre compared to 14.86.

Where was that at, that's a good deal

sent while drinking tea's

 

[pete gads]

riverside honda