Diesel engine oil

mclean

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Just make sure you hand calculate those economy numbers to verify the instrument cluster reads accurate.

Some tuners add power by modifying the injector pulse width table, so the truck may think it's injecting 110 mm^3 per stroke, but is actually doing 130 mm^3 per stroke, which can really throw off the instrument cluster fuel economy numbers.

I know with my power stroke there is a hard limit of 140 mm^3 per stroke in the ECU, after which modifying the pulse width table becomes necessary to add more fuel and make more power.
I just did it last week so i haven't had a chance to hand calculate it. I was goofing around a bit and idling a lot when it was crazy hot and I still got an extra 200-300ish kms on a tank.

That being said, with Spartan and KEM tunes on my 2010, it showed me getting 8-10l/100km. Way off haha.
 

MK4TDI

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5W40 T6 Rotella is on sale at Canadian Tire this week... Maxim Trucks used to be the place to get 15/40 T4 shell but since all the covid nonsense their prices are typically higher now.

Father inlaw buys his oil in drums... which I think will be the route I go in the next year, gets to be a pains in the ass trying to time the sales, I'd rather have the drums sitting there.
IMG_20240712_125343.jpg
 

sirkdev

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This is a girl my daughter goes to school with rig. New drop in engine at 850k it was commercial RV hauler in Ontario now a college kids truck. emissions were fully intact until engine was replaced, a few sensors and 3 def pumps.
 

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sirkdev

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510k on my 2017 work truck. Emissions intact. Change oil on the OLM, always 16k. 5-40 Rotella.
Without getting too carried away what are your driving trends? Seems to be working. Idling etc. starts? Weight? Truck config? You a pinner to winner guy or.. appreciate your thoughts
 

2kDoo

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So had an interesting chat with an oil salesman from Petrocan and some points that I never thought about. His comments were everyone gets stuck on having the most pimped out oil full syn. etc when in reality the biggest killer on emissions equipped trucks is fuel dilution and the only way to deal with that is change oil and good running engine. So.. his thoughts are, back down on the oil to a mid-tier type oil and change it more frequently. Unless you need the extreme protection that a full syn offers. There is pros and cons both ways as the full syn has better add packages to carry soot etc. But at the end of the day good combustion and frequent oil changes win.
Thinking out loud...
He actually commented also on running premium diesel and or regular with an additive as better combustion leads to less soot and wear which leads to less contamination in your oil to begin with.
I cant wait until warranty is up and get this deleted but until then..
thats what I said lol
Only run the expensive in high hp units
otherwise the cheapo is just fine for up to 10,000. Hell I sometimes go 13 to 14k beywene oil changes in my lly.
 

JMCX

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Without getting too carried away what are your driving trends? Seems to be working. Idling etc. starts? Weight? Truck config? You a pinner to winner guy or.. appreciate your thoughts
I don't drive it hard. The rear brakes are original, the front done once. Occasionally I'll boot on it just because l figure it's good for the VVT. Never had a trailer connected but about a thousand pounds in the back 24/7. Probably 80% highway. Idle hours are 11%.

I have some habits that would make some cringe. I run every tank of fuel past E. Change the oil on the OLM (16k always). No fuel additive. Never plug it in. Don't idle it to warm up even at -35. Hit remote start as I'm pulling my boots on, drop it in gear and go. Just drive easy. I wouldn't dream of changing a fuel filter before 60k is on it.

A few million km tallied up with these habits on various similar trucks of all three brands. No unusual problems.
 

2kDoo

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I don't drive it hard. The rear brakes are original, the front done once. Occasionally I'll boot on it just because l figure it's good for the VVT. Never had a trailer connected but about a thousand pounds in the back 24/7. Probably 80% highway. Idle hours are 11%.

I have some habits that would make some cringe. I run every tank of fuel past E. Change the oil on the OLM (16k always). No fuel additive. Never plug it in. Don't idle it to warm up even at -35. Hit remote start as I'm pulling my boots on, drop it in gear and go. Just drive easy. I wouldn't dream of changing a fuel filter before 60k is on it.

A few million km tallied up with these habits on various similar trucks of all three brands. No unusual problems.
agree with almost everything you said except 60k for a fuel filter.
30k tops !
 

JMCX

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agree with almost everything you said except 60k for a fuel filter.
30k tops !
I went 100k on the last set. Cut the engine mounted one open to check it out. There was a black film on the pleats. The tank mounted filter was spotless. If it wasn't wet you couldn't tell it from the new. Hard to say if I'll ever change them again. The company will get me a new truck if l ask.
 

2kDoo

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I went 100k on the last set. Cut the engine mounted one open to check it out. There was a black film on the pleats. The tank mounted filter was spotless. If it wasn't wet you couldn't tell it from the new. Hard to say if I'll ever change them again. The company will get me a new truck if l ask.
if its a company truck drive it into the ground then
 
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