I just did it last week so i haven't had a chance to hand calculate it. I was goofing around a bit and idling a lot when it was crazy hot and I still got an extra 200-300ish kms on a tank.Just make sure you hand calculate those economy numbers to verify the instrument cluster reads accurate.
Some tuners add power by modifying the injector pulse width table, so the truck may think it's injecting 110 mm^3 per stroke, but is actually doing 130 mm^3 per stroke, which can really throw off the instrument cluster fuel economy numbers.
I know with my power stroke there is a hard limit of 140 mm^3 per stroke in the ECU, after which modifying the pulse width table becomes necessary to add more fuel and make more power.
im at 70k going to wait until 160k warranty is overHow many kms left until you delete?
I just did my 2017. Forgot how much of a difference it makes. The 4L/100km extra helps too
Ugh. The damage will be done by then hahaim at 70k going to wait until 160k warranty is over
Its hard to say but I hear you... I know a few 6.7's that have 450k emissions intact. Minor maintenance issuesUgh. The damage will be done by then haha
that's super interesting! I'll have to do some hand calculations, but I am seeing a tank of fuel going further KM wise.
510k on my 2017 work truck. Emissions intact. Change oil on the OLM, always 16k. 5-40 Rotella.Its hard to say but I hear you... I know a few 6.7's that have 450k emissions intact. Minor maintenance issues
Without getting too carried away what are your driving trends? Seems to be working. Idling etc. starts? Weight? Truck config? You a pinner to winner guy or.. appreciate your thoughts510k on my 2017 work truck. Emissions intact. Change oil on the OLM, always 16k. 5-40 Rotella.
thats what I said lolSo had an interesting chat with an oil salesman from Petrocan and some points that I never thought about. His comments were everyone gets stuck on having the most pimped out oil full syn. etc when in reality the biggest killer on emissions equipped trucks is fuel dilution and the only way to deal with that is change oil and good running engine. So.. his thoughts are, back down on the oil to a mid-tier type oil and change it more frequently. Unless you need the extreme protection that a full syn offers. There is pros and cons both ways as the full syn has better add packages to carry soot etc. But at the end of the day good combustion and frequent oil changes win.
Thinking out loud...
He actually commented also on running premium diesel and or regular with an additive as better combustion leads to less soot and wear which leads to less contamination in your oil to begin with.
I cant wait until warranty is up and get this deleted but until then..
I don't drive it hard. The rear brakes are original, the front done once. Occasionally I'll boot on it just because l figure it's good for the VVT. Never had a trailer connected but about a thousand pounds in the back 24/7. Probably 80% highway. Idle hours are 11%.Without getting too carried away what are your driving trends? Seems to be working. Idling etc. starts? Weight? Truck config? You a pinner to winner guy or.. appreciate your thoughts
agree with almost everything you said except 60k for a fuel filter.I don't drive it hard. The rear brakes are original, the front done once. Occasionally I'll boot on it just because l figure it's good for the VVT. Never had a trailer connected but about a thousand pounds in the back 24/7. Probably 80% highway. Idle hours are 11%.
I have some habits that would make some cringe. I run every tank of fuel past E. Change the oil on the OLM (16k always). No fuel additive. Never plug it in. Don't idle it to warm up even at -35. Hit remote start as I'm pulling my boots on, drop it in gear and go. Just drive easy. I wouldn't dream of changing a fuel filter before 60k is on it.
A few million km tallied up with these habits on various similar trucks of all three brands. No unusual problems.
I went 100k on the last set. Cut the engine mounted one open to check it out. There was a black film on the pleats. The tank mounted filter was spotless. If it wasn't wet you couldn't tell it from the new. Hard to say if I'll ever change them again. The company will get me a new truck if l ask.agree with almost everything you said except 60k for a fuel filter.
30k tops !
if its a company truck drive it into the ground thenI went 100k on the last set. Cut the engine mounted one open to check it out. There was a black film on the pleats. The tank mounted filter was spotless. If it wasn't wet you couldn't tell it from the new. Hard to say if I'll ever change them again. The company will get me a new truck if l ask.