more bottom end?

note

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well I took my 98 rmk 600 out this weekend. I was happy with everything BUT bottom end. I raced some 700's and our top speed was the same but I didnt get much off the start. I would like for MORE low mid power. What mods can I do for this?
 

Pappillion

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well I took my 98 rmk 600 out this weekend. I was happy with everything BUT bottom end. I raced some 700's and our top speed was the same but I didnt get much off the start. I would like for MORE low mid power. What mods can I do for this?

This is the problem with 600's. I don't think that small mods will help you much. You could change your gearing to get more on the bottom end but you will loose the top end. A different pipe and can combo may increase the midrange power but not guaranteed. You could go as far as porting and polishing the motor but once again this may not help. Bigger motor is what you need.
 

maxwell

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gearing...will loose some top speed. but not that many mods for low end....clutch kit i suppose would help you out of the hole. also your suspension setup and track type is important for hooking up
 

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my 98 600 rmk beat 700's on bottom end but losst on top by 10 kmh. all it had was a can and a shift kit and some jetting:cool:
 

note

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gearing...will loose some top speed. but not that many mods for low end....clutch kit i suppose would help you out of the hole. also your suspension setup and track type is important for hooking up

how so for track setup? I have a 136" with 2" paddel. I have a snow stuff can on it and a altitude compinsator now. what gearing should I run? my speed on my sled is the same is a 700, I just loose off the start.
 

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You're down 100cc's, not sure why you're trying to compare to a 700. Clutch engagement might be a little low, which could be why you are slower off the line, you could bump it up but you're going to sacrifice some top end probably at full shift unless you can get a spring with the same finish rate. Could drop gearing and gain on the bottom end but then you'll lose top end. Carbs might be a little rich, you could maybe lean it out and it might have better response down low.

Too lean and KABOOM! so be careful...

Tighten up limiter straps to keep front end down and that will help you not wheelie. When you wheelie your sled, energy used for forward momentum gets transferred into upward momentum. When you're going up, you ain't going forward.

Or you could just ride it, enjoy it and not worry about trying to compare it to bigger sleds. If you were losing to 550's I would be concerned but if you are keeping up pretty well with a sled with 100cc's more then I wouldn't get too upset. :)
 

my mod

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You're down 100cc's, not sure why you're trying to compare to a 700. Clutch engagement might be a little low, which could be why you are slower off the line, you could bump it up but you're going to sacrifice some top end probably at full shift unless you can get a spring with the same finish rate. Could drop gearing and gain on the bottom end but then you'll lose top end. Carbs might be a little rich, you could maybe lean it out and it might have better response down low.

Too lean and KABOOM! so be careful...

Tighten up limiter straps to keep front end down and that will help you not wheelie. When you wheelie your sled, energy used for forward momentum gets transferred into upward momentum. When you're going up, you ain't going forward.

Or you could just ride it, enjoy it and not worry about trying to compare it to bigger sleds. If you were losing to 550's I would be concerned but if you are keeping up pretty well with a sled with 100cc's more then I wouldn't get too upset. :)

I agree with modman, but there is a few things you can do safely. If this sled is bone stock, you can jet it down one to two sizes. Every sled, no mater who manufactured it, comes from the factory a little fat for safety and reliability and less waranty claims for the manufacturer. Bring up the engagement a little so the engine is already reved up and does not have to work as hard. primary spring and or heavy hitter weights do work good. and if done right, you will not lose any top end but with a higher engagement you will come out of the hole quicker. If you can find a quick change clutch that would work real good for what you want to do. It's all about playing with the clutching.
 

note

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You're down 100cc's, not sure why you're trying to compare to a 700. Clutch engagement might be a little low, which could be why you are slower off the line, you could bump it up but you're going to sacrifice some top end probably at full shift unless you can get a spring with the same finish rate. Could drop gearing and gain on the bottom end but then you'll lose top end. Carbs might be a little rich, you could maybe lean it out and it might have better response down low.

Too lean and KABOOM! so be careful...

Tighten up limiter straps to keep front end down and that will help you not wheelie. When you wheelie your sled, energy used for forward momentum gets transferred into upward momentum. When you're going up, you ain't going forward.

Or you could just ride it, enjoy it and not worry about trying to compare it to bigger sleds. If you were losing to 550's I would be concerned but if you are keeping up pretty well with a sled with 100cc's more then I wouldn't get too upset. :)

it seems to be a bit ritch, how can you tell if it is too lean?
 

Modman

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it seems to be a bit ritch, how can you tell if it is too lean?

Spark Plugs

Basically you want your plugs to look like 14 through 19. If they are white/light grey then you are too lean. Often times you will get a lean "pop" as well, just as you start to back off the throttle after your run.
 

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If you are seriously worried about beating some 700s in a race, you could add a little nitrous. Sled will stay very ride-able until you hit the button. Nitrous has come a long way the last few years and is fairly safe if sled is in good condition and you don't get carried away. The 700s won't know what hit them. LOL;)
 
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