Lets see your enclosed

CUSO

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I haven't yet. I hear the 3m self adhesive works best on raw aluminum. I was thinking of getting some heavy gauge sheet metal or extruded 1/16x1 and foam taping that to the ceiling. Or I guess you could use that foam double sided glazing tape. That $hit holds like jack the bear.
 

zal

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I stuck them to the roof. But in some places, they are coming undone. I'm also thinking about putting a strip of aluminum on the roof and sticking them to it.
 

maxwell

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So then do you just run a spare batt in trailer or what........

ya the setup i made has a battery with a solar panel so its self sustaining. but when plugged into the truck everything runs off the truck and charges the battery, or i plug into the wall and the battery maintainer kicks in and keeps the battery healthy.
 

mach123

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Thanks, so what would I run from batt to truck plug, what wires on 7 prung do I tap into. I do have a little solar panel I can use on roof..THX
 

maxwell

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depends if your trailer is wired via the frame ( ground ) mine has no ground connections all the lights all have 2 wires feeding them etc. so depending on the trailer you may also need a neutral (ground) and like mentioned above the constant 12v source that comes on with the ignition.
 

CUSO

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Your truck will never charge up your battery. That power source is mainly for the brake battery. I talked to an auto electric shop and they said that you would have to drive on the highway for like 8 hours to get the RV battery back to proper useable levels.

I have a smart battery charger in my trailer hooked up to the battery. I ran 120v plugs inside and will plug in the trailer when I get back to the hotel/home.

I put a switch on my truck power source after the brake battery, because if you do kill the RV battery, your trailer brake will stay charged. I switched it , just in case the RV battery dies and I need some power inside. Not sure if it would run the furnace....

Those solar packs are great if you don't use your trailer for some time and need a maintainer.... as long as you get a regulator so you don't overcharge. If it's for just one weekend, and brought back home where you can charge it back up, you may as well save your $$
I was also told it is a good idea to take the batteries out and store them in your garage if it's gonna drop below -20.. for longevity sake.
 

gibsons

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see if this works.file://localhost/Users/FamilyFolder/Desktop/trailer lights pic's/IMG_0013.JPG
 
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maxwell

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Your truck will never charge up your battery. That power source is mainly for the brake battery. I talked to an auto electric shop and they said that you would have to drive on the highway for like 8 hours to get the RV battery back to proper useable levels.

I have a smart battery charger in my trailer hooked up to the battery. I ran 120v plugs inside and will plug in the trailer when I get back to the hotel/home.

I put a switch on my truck power source after the brake battery, because if you do kill the RV battery, your trailer brake will stay charged. I switched it , just in case the RV battery dies and I need some power inside. Not sure if it would run the furnace....

Those solar packs are great if you don't use your trailer for some time and need a maintainer.... as long as you get a regulator so you don't overcharge. If it's for just one weekend, and brought back home where you can charge it back up, you may as well save your $$
I was also told it is a good idea to take the batteries out and store them in your garage if it's gonna drop below -20.. for longevity sake.

ya i believe that about the charging from the truck. our truck camper depended on truck power only to charge the batteries when not plugged in. and from driving from Edmonton to kelowna they were fully charged. but for driving back and forth to the hill it should replenish what you used on lights and stereo.

also. not sure which breakaway system you have. i run the engager. it WILL NOT discharge power out of the 2 power leads. will only allow power in for charging. the only place it will let power out is from the breakaway switch to trigger the brakes. just what i found in my testing.

good to know about the -20. but how does this differ from a vehicle battery that sits out in -30?

the one thing i havent figured out yet is how to make it so my rv battery doesnt charge by breakaway battery when i have 12v battery source switched on. pain in the butt because i want to be able to leave the 12v battery switch on so that when the truck is disconnected i can flick on the light switch at the door. rather than having to walk into the dark trailer, flick the switch theeeen turn on the lights. i thought about a diode inbetween but then it wouldnt charge from the truck either.
 
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CUSO

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That is the same as me I think. Good point. Could you run a selector switch, right next to your main light switches?
I think the low temps aren't great for any battery, and if you don't use them regularly, I think it gets worse. I think the theory of storing inside is supposed to increase the life. Also being too hot is not supposed to be great for one either.
 

gibsons

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IMG_0013.jpg

finally, here's one of the pic's.
 

plio7

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How does the Titan pull that kind of trailer when the weather is crappy? I've got a KC Titan just like yours (plus 'big tow' package. Judging from your mirrors, yours does not have the package?) and I'm looking to get an enclosed in the 14'-19' range. Just trying to decide if I should even bother with an enclosed before I can get myself a 3/4 ton.

I have yet to tow this one in chitty weather but have towed a 15' x8' v nose all last winter and the winter before to and from sylvan lake regularly and it did a great job. I dont have 4x4 so when loaded she sometime spins but a little bit off the gas and ease back in and she has no issue hookin back up. I have nothing bad to say about the truck pulling this one in the summer at all though
 
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