Just bought a super-charged Apex....now what??

[recguy]

i have one. give MPI a call they will fix you up. Anything over 7lbs will require 50/50 or you will run into problems. The superchargers pull real hard too, you will surprise alot of turbo's.

 

[INSTGUY]

I run a turbo nytro....10-12 pounds boost max on premium fuel...you will not need anything else done until you hit 14+

 

[shiznitt100]

ok now you are talking 2 different things here. not trying to be rude but a s/c is totally different from a turbo. yes you can do boost all way to 14 on turbo sled pump gas. you can NOT on a s/c sled. apex or nytro you must mix fuel. Maybe when the programmers get more advanced and you can ensure your a/f below 12 you may get away with it, but for now all fuel must be mixed

 

[burnt toast]

So what if your apex is stage 2 with head shim still must mix fuel?

 

[shiznitt100]

yes you must run a mix of 110 or higher, just to boost up the pump fuel premium. MPI says to run 50-50 but i find that is way to much so i run 30-70, 30 being the 110 or 112. I have a drum that i am looking at getting rid of $550. let me know if interested

 

[burnt toast]

Shiznitt100, does race fuel fuel not go bad? I don't know if I would use that much. How much would a guy go through? Were u located? I am looking at apex with mpi s/c on it. The guy is saying it runs on preimum. It has a thousand K on it, Newly installed RB3 and BOV with pro lite software done by powderlites. (What ever that is)

 

[shiznitt100]

if you are riding it everyweekend you will go through aprox 30l of race fuel per weekend, depending on how much you ride and how hard. the s/c sleds use a ton of fuel. the rb3 will help your fuel situation huge. i would still run race fuel even if head shim. at altitude you probably will not have a problem but on the trails you will burn it down.some people i know tryed the cheap way out and cost them a mint to rebuild the eng. as far as i am concerned race fuel is cheap insurance. I have beat the crap out of my sled, stage 2 17psi, head shim, bov and recent rb3(still tuning) and i have yet to have issue. i just free poor the 110 to it.Before the rb3 i fought with the gems programmer and it never ran good and i know my a/f were out to lunch very lean and very rich and sled is still alive. if you need help tuning the rb3 let me know, i have some good base maps for stage 1

 

[shiznitt100]

sorry i did not answer all your questions,, race fuel does go bad but it is sealed in drums right now and should be ok for aprox year. i would not want to keep it around for ever, also i am in bc castlegar, bring the sled down and we can tune if you are in area

 

[Modman]

if you are riding it everyweekend you will go through aprox 30l of race fuel per weekend, depending on how much you ride and how hard. the s/c sleds use a ton of fuel. the rb3 will help your fuel situation huge. i would still run race fuel even if head shim. at altitude you probably will not have a problem but on the trails you will burn it down.some people i know tryed the cheap way out and cost them a mint to rebuild the eng. as far as i am concerned race fuel is cheap insurance. I have beat the crap out of my sled, stage 2 17psi, head shim, bov and recent rb3(still tuning) and i have yet to have issue. i just free poor the 110 to it.Before the rb3 i fought with the gems programmer and it never ran good and i know my a/f were out to lunch very lean and very rich and sled is still alive. if you need help tuning the rb3 let me know, i have some good base maps for stage 1

burnt toast - keep in mind that where shiznitt is riding the elevation starts at about 1500 ft and goes up from there, so he does (and should) mix more race gas in his tank. If the seller of your sled was riding from 5000 ft upward, he might have been able to run premium from the parking lot, but this is not always the case for everywhere you ride so you have to know when to mix fuel.

Listen to what shiznitt has to say, and if you buy that sled don't cheap out on fuel. This is the biggest mistake that owners of turbo/supercharger/big bore with high compression heads make - spend $5,000 - $10,000 on a motor and then run cheap fuel in it. All you get is an expensive paperweight if you don't run the right fuel. Do it right or don't do it at all.

 

[burnt toast]

Modman, Shiznitt100. Thanks for all of your input. I unstand that it is better to spend the little extra on fuel than to bo sorry. But just so I have this straight say your riding 5000 to 8000 ft with 10 psi boost you could be running premium fuel? with head shim. Or am I totally wrong. Shiznitt100 are u pretty hapy with yours and do you run a blow off valve?

 

[shiznitt100]

I love the s/c. I had stage one before and i actually liked that kit better then stage 2. regaurdless of altitude you should still invest in some race fuel. and buy fuel from esso, shell or petro, dont buy any of that funny stuff. I am running a blow off valve, i have it set at 7"hg to open so on the trails it will blow off all that extra boost enstead of going through the s/c again. it also helps keep the oil cooler and less load on the s/c. I just installed the rb3 and doing some tuning. I do feel there is a better system then teh rb3 but need to invest some time and money into a different set up. Dont get me wrong i am sure when the rb3 is set up properly i am sure it will do the job and work well. The rb3 has already made improvements to the sled over teh stock programmer., what does that sled come with for goodies and how much does he want for it?, also consider the weight of the apex and with the s/c it adds weight to the nose. can be a pain in the a$$ to ride some days due to conditions.

 

[Modman]

Modman, Shiznitt100. Thanks for all of your input. I unstand that it is better to spend the little extra on fuel than to bo sorry. But just so I have this straight say your riding 5000 to 8000 ft with 10 psi boost you could be running premium fuel? with head shim. Or am I totally wrong. Shiznitt100 are u pretty hapy with yours and do you run a blow off valve?

Don't know about the 10 lbs at 5000 ft, there is a boost calculator for this that I think might give you the answer. I'm not a s/c guy so I'm not going to say yes for sure, but as you go up in elevation your octane requirements go down. You could call MPI if that is the S/C that the sled comes with and ask them what they recommend. Sounds like a safe bet is 50/50 (race/pump)though, from what shiznitt and recguy has said above ^^^. "anything over 7lbs means 50/50" but not sure about what elevation this is good to.

 

[TomKat72]

I just wanted to do an update concerning the fuel octane situation. TORCO Fuel Accelerator works great (as advertised)!!! Heathe at MPI also stated that they have had nothing but good luck with it as well. He stated that many flatlanders that don't have access to race fuel are using it with good results.:d

 

[mdwils]

Is this rb3 you speak of a MPI product?

 

[shiznitt100]

no the rb3 is a piggy back system that dumps fuel adds or removes timing from your stock computer. there are other systems out there that people are trying,, power programmer but only does up to 15psi boost. I would like to try a different system that can be used as a stand alone complete controll or a piggy back system too. at 1/3 the cost.

 

[TomKat72]

Is this rb3 you speak of a MPI product?

The RB3 is not from MPI. Here's a link for it.

 

[TABSTER]

I have a brand new RB3 and the pro software for sale......

 

[burnt toast]

Been out a few times with the super now.. runs wicked on 30 to 50/50 mix, i will be installing a BOV as per Shiz, would like to see some one with one on before so i know what I am doing. Shiz did u get the welding of the flange done yourself or did u send it into MPI?

 

[shiznitt100]

I had mine welded at a local calgary welding shop. just find some one to tig alum weld it into the charge tube under the bulk head. this will take some measuring and fitting before you weld it. Then after the bung was welded i holesawed the center out. it is better to do it that way so if there is a problem with the WELDER he wont blow through the sides into the hole you have cut. also may have to modify the bung so it fits on charge tube better.
To make it fit correct in the bulk head it will take aprox 2 hours of custom fitting and modifing the bung. it is easy to do. Look at vulture motor sports out of austraila. they have blow off valves for 200$ shipped to your door. thats the one i got for my sled,and it works great. when you do get it take the body apart and remove the LARGE spring, set the adjusting screw so it just touches the diafram. this will achieve aprox 5"hg to open valve under no pressure. so on trail aprox 6000rpm-8000rpm the valve will open under light to mod cruise, when throttled hard the valve will close and the motor will see full boost. when climbing and backing out of throttle the valve will open instantly releasing all back pressure so eng does not die any more.

works well, give me a shout 24-7 when you get the valve and i will explain better on phone
250-304-7441 cell 250-304-2220 house
colin

 

[burnt toast]

Shiz thats the model vm 50mm?