G5 turbo Gears and chain

drew562

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Clutching is always first, especially reading previous comments how the sheaves are looking. Also taking into account Ski Doo's previous track record of poor calibration. Taking some time to look @ ramp profile & weight, spring rates in the drive & driven. Assuming the typical 40* in the secondary you can tell quickly how the calibration will work or not.

The 146 will spin quicker, so a little higher gear would still have the belt in the optimal position. Sharing equal sheave contact area between both clutches in a high load condition. I've always thought with the factory wobble in the fixed half of the primary it would be interesting to change the gear ratio up & down slightly from optimal. While shooting that sheave temperature with a heat gun. With belt problem starting in 2017 G4 & monitoring the sheave temp, that drive fixed half was always noticeably warmer, not hot as the calibration & set up improved. The wobble might like a greater sheave contact area than the driven & cool down.......that would support the lower ratio theory......if that is true.

You can calculate the gear ratio, including driver size to see if the ratio is close. It won't matter if the clutch calibration is bad. Gearing down is just a banded @ that point, heat is being generated in the clutches.

Just like the weight of track, a 174 T3 is probably near twice the weight of that wee 146. We have 174 T3 tracks in G4's with zero issue.
If you have a skidoo, spitting belts, it is not fixable. Imo. Been down that road on multiple sleds. I had a free ride that did 16 belts one year. Turbo Al Clutch, and geared it. Mad Motors sports Leduc clutched and geared it. Specialty motorsports Edmonton clutched and geared it. And Martins spent half a season on it. 75 km belts. We’re good ones. It was on warranty so the fix for skidoo was to sell me belts for 100 each lol. Oh, and I even put a PA 85 Polaris clutch on it. Lightweight clutch took out the crank.
 

Teth-Air

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Those 146 sleds appear to be slipping belts in the primary from the high heat shown in the video I saw. The longer, lower geared sleds seem fine so this indicates to me that it is a position in the sheaves that might be a problem related to clutching. At 60 kmph on the short sled the belt will ride lower in the primary compared to the longer, lower geared sled, at the same speed. Chances are with the belt so low there is just not as much belt grip to avoid slippage. At this low position there is much less sheave/belt contact area. This is opposite to the idea that a short track allows shift out and higher track speeds but I am not saying here that the sled won't do that, rather I believe the heat is being generated at lower speeds. Once hot this makes a belt greasy and then when shifted out it is too hot and slippery to recover so now it slips even at the higher positon in the sheaves. Of course this is all theory but I would be gearing down or increasing both primary weight (clickers) and primary spring rate (read more belt clamp) to offset and maintain rpms, to test the theory. I always wondered why my buddy's 175 got the high belt temperture warning when we go really slow through the trees on a twisty ridge top trail. I now expect the longer sleds are slipping too but being at much lower speeds we usually blow through that speed and most of our riding is much faster. Previously I thought it was just that there was not enough air movement through the enclosed belt guard.
 
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MP Kid

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Those 146 sleds appear to be slipping belts in the primary from the high heat shown in the video I saw. The longer, lower geared sleds seem fine so this indicates to me that it is a position in the sheaves that might be a problem related to clutching. At 60 kmph on the short sled the belt will ride lower in the primary compared to the longer, lower geared sled, at the same speed. Chances are with the belt so low there is just not as much belt grip to avoid slippage. At this low position there is much less sheave/belt contact area. This is opposite to the idea that a short track allows shift out and higher track speeds but I am not saying here that the sled won't do that, rather I believe the heat is being generated at lower speeds. Once hot this makes a belt greasy and then when shifted out it is too hot and slippery to recover so now it slips even at the higher positon in the sheaves. Of course this is all theory but I would be gearing down or increasing both primary weight (clickers) and primary spring rate (read more belt clamp) to offset and maintain rpms, to test the theory. I always wondered why my buddy's 175 got the high belt temperture warning when we go really slow through the trees on a twisty ridge top trail. I now expect the longer sleds are slipping too but being at much lower speeds we usually blow through that speed and most of our riding is much faster. Previously I thought it was just that there was not enough air movement through the enclosed belt guard.
A pile of riders would be shocked if they actually knew how little their clutches had shifted out in the high load/low ground speed situations like those that are experienced during steep/deep tree riding…
That 146 with tall gearing isn’t shifting out like they think..
 

ctd

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Those 146 sleds appear to be slipping belts in the primary from the high heat shown in the video I saw. The longer, lower geared sleds seem fine so this indicates to me that it is a position in the sheaves that might be a problem related to clutching. At 60 kmph on the short sled the belt will ride lower in the primary compared to the longer, lower geared sled, at the same speed. Chances are with the belt so low there is just not as much belt grip to avoid slippage. At this low position there is much less sheave/belt contact area. This is opposite to the idea that a short track allows shift out and higher track speeds but I am not saying here that the sled won't do that, rather I believe the heat is being generated at lower speeds. Once hot this makes a belt greasy and then when shifted out it is too hot and slippery to recover so now it slips even at the higher positon in the sheaves. Of course this is all theory but I would be gearing down or increasing both primary weight (clickers) and primary spring rate (read more belt clamp) to offset and maintain rpms, to test the theory. I always wondered why my buddy's 175 got the high belt temperture warning when we go really slow through the trees on a twisty ridge top trail. I now expect the longer sleds are slipping too but being at much lower speeds we usually blow through that speed and most of our riding is much faster. Previously I thought it was just that there was not enough air movement through the enclosed belt guard.
Are these comments based on P Drive & QRS experience? My experience is only TRA, P Drive & few driven clutch's Ski Doo has produced. These are different breeds to calibrate & some of your comments in the post are not going to help.

Ski Doo has gone from gearing too high in days gone by to almost the most the opposite now. You have some low ratio's in the CC & now those tiny drivers.....very low ratio when you include those small drivers in the overall calculations.

Other factors get involved such clamping force, shift speed & belt pressure. These are calibration issues & limited influence by gear ratio if you are in a good target area.

Ski Doo's solution to belt issue's has always been we need a more expensive belt....that's why we have a $300.00 drive belt. Solving the 2017 problem Ha! I can probably the pervious years Ski Doo had belt problems solved with a new more expensive belt :)
 

ctd

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A pile of riders would be shocked if they actually knew how little their clutches had shifted out in the high load/low ground speed situations like those that are experienced during steep/deep tree riding…
That 146 with tall gearing isn’t shifting out like they think..
You have to do the calculations, if the clutch calibration is poor they won't shift. The heat is energy not going to the track.
 

MP Kid

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You have to do the calculations, if the clutch calibration is poor they won't shift. The heat is energy not going to the track.
Thanks tips…


So .. you’re saying SD didn’t do the calibrations.. shocking.
Lots things they didn’t do right
 

maxwell

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Thanks tips…


So .. you’re saying SD didn’t do the calibrations.. shocking.
Lots things they didn’t do right


Manufacturers also have to put out a calibration that works for 99% of people in lots of varying conditions. There will always be tweaks to be made for your individual likings. Generally speaking the g5 calibration is good. Belts are lasting longer with way more HP and most people aren’t dickering with the calibrations including myself. It works


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

snoflake

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It’ll definitely last longer than any of those built in the last 8 years …
:unsure: :LOL::ROFLMAO:. That some funny $h!T right there. AC build quality reminds me of the Canadian Tire Quads for kids back in the day. The only difference, was you could get 2 seasons of the the Canadian tire stuff.
 
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Bnorth

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What is worst about it? buddy had the alpha. what a POS I towed it off mountain twice with my ski doo and his previous cat before that three times. Now he got a polaris, can't stand a ski doo though but will take a tow from one :ROFLMAO:
You're confusing reliability with chassis performance.

Both 2023 G5T's I rode with last season had chaincase failures and needed to be towed as well.
 
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