bobsledder
Active VIP Member
Changed oil in mine. Pilled cover to have a look at what all the fuss is about. No signs of rubbing or gear wobble.
G5 turbo Gears and chain
- Thread starter Caper11
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FranktheTank
Active VIP Member
Pulled mine on my 23 and now my 24 no signs of rubbing either.
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- #203
Caper11
Active VIP Member
No I didn’t, realized I didn’t have it my phone on me when I went to take one, and the tech was putting everything back together.
I was quite surprised how much play was on that spline, I thought it was tighter fit on the spline.
Anyway the gearing was getting changed due to the 146 belt blowing issue, that 146 had some heavy slippage and black rings on the primary, he was trying 21/51.
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FranktheTank
Active VIP Member
Yeah seen the 146 Turbos are shredding belts. Not surprised deep pow, steep hills, short track and with thatTurbo power something has to give.
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greenthumb
Active VIP Member
1200km and still no tension adjustment needed. 
I actually backed it off and tightened back up just to see. weird.
Judging by the silence on this topic, and what Iv'e seen out riding, appears this isn't an issue anymore thankfully.
I actually backed it off and tightened back up just to see. weird. Judging by the silence on this topic, and what Iv'e seen out riding, appears this isn't an issue anymore thankfully.
maxwell
Active VIP Member
1200km and still no tension adjustment needed.
Judging by the silence on this topic, and what Iv'e seen out riding, appears this isn't an issue anymore thankfully.
the proper chain and gears wont take much if any tension adjustment. All seems good
Dawizman
Active VIP Member
Mine needed adjustment a few times in the first 300km. I've checked every ride now since break-in finished, and all good at 750km on my 24. Might pop the cover soon just because, and see the fitament of the slip joint. And how much wear if any.1200km and still no tension adjustment needed.
Judging by the silence on this topic, and what Iv'e seen out riding, appears this isn't an issue anymore thankfully.
Dazzler
Active VIP Member
Why would that happen?? Shorter track would take less power/torque to spin??
FranktheTank
Active VIP Member
Caper was saying the gearing is out to lunch on it. Correct less torque but spinning faster/more track speed= more heat more blown belts
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snoflake
Active VIP Member
Ya, somethings is fishy with the 146 freeride turbo. I have 2 buddies that have been doing a little experimenting with them. They both are eating belts. They even tried a new poo 155 3-1/4 track to see how they would work. For some reason cant seem to get any track speed out of the 155 poo track????
maxwell
Active VIP Member
Anyone messing around with the 146 gearing? Stock with 22/51 would be putting out a high track speed
They sure go through a lot of abuse to try to keep up to any 154/165; meadows and small climbs.... Not for me. i like the 165 turbo she chews.
Any feedback from the 21/51 -> seems the setup the 154's are running 51-53. Be hard to keep any skis down by gearing this thing down, but would pay off if the belt life is good.... 146's great for spring & low snow. but they take some serious belt heat WOT all day.
They sure go through a lot of abuse to try to keep up to any 154/165; meadows and small climbs.... Not for me. i like the 165 turbo she chews.
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- #213
Caper11
Active VIP Member
Between the clutch kit and the gearing Change, it was a big improvement over stock. The clutch kit had the biggest gain.
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NoBrakes!
Active VIP Member
Who’s kit did you go with?
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- #215
Caper11
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I was just repeating what I was told in the text, I am actually not sure what exactly was put in, I didn’t ask. The gearing was done first before the clutching.
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Teth-Air
Active VIP Member
Another one of those friend of a friend's sister's uncle stories? Just asking for a friend.
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- #217
Caper11
Active VIP Member
Wow, and some wonder why no info is shared on here. Tell me you don’t know anything about doo clutching without telling me.
Forget I mentioned anything. Stock setup if perfect
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Teth-Air
Active VIP Member
Just ribbing you. I am glad the gearing was done first as this tells me it was done in the right order.
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- #219
Matt's a reputable source Chris, he's a personal friend that knows what he is talking about.
ctd
Active VIP Member
Clutching is always first, especially reading previous comments how the sheaves are looking. Also taking into account Ski Doo's previous track record of poor calibration. Taking some time to look @ ramp profile & weight, spring rates in the drive & driven. Assuming the typical 40* in the secondary you can tell quickly how the calibration will work or not.
The 146 will spin quicker, so a little higher gear would still have the belt in the optimal position. Sharing equal sheave contact area between both clutches in a high load condition. I've always thought with the factory wobble in the fixed half of the primary it would be interesting to change the gear ratio up & down slightly from optimal. While shooting that sheave temperature with a heat gun. With belt problem starting in 2017 G4 & monitoring the sheave temp, that drive fixed half was always noticeably warmer, not hot as the calibration & set up improved. The wobble might like a greater sheave contact area than the driven & cool down.......that would support the lower ratio theory......if that is true.
You can calculate the gear ratio, including driver size to see if the ratio is close. It won't matter if the clutch calibration is bad. Gearing down is just a banded @ that point, heat is being generated in the clutches.
Just like the weight of track, a 174 T3 is probably near twice the weight of that wee 146. We have 174 T3 tracks in G4's with zero issue.
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