dragonweld28
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the softer spring allows the power valves to fully open at elevation. The orange spring is too stiff to open all the way.
Fix Kit Install First Timer
- Thread starter Jorgy
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007sevens
Active VIP Member
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- #63
No dice with the new bellows. Also changed back to stock clutching. I'm down to something with injection or electrical. Fuel air or oil. I'm at a loss and suppose to be riding this weekend...
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007sevens
Active VIP Member
Dumb question but you did install the pistons facing the correct way.
Just ruling this out.
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- #65
007sevens
Active VIP Member
Sorry I went back and re read your first post and seen that. I also asked if your positive on piston alignment. Not saying your a bad wrench turner just want to rule this out.
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- #67
I'm pretty confident with my install. Piston to cylinder clearance was good and same with ring gap. Wouldn't it run bad thoughout if I had an install that pour to make it bog right away. I'm no mechanic but seems off. My thought is that it's maybe tps. How much does it take to knock that out of whack?
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007sevens
Active VIP Member
A TPS out of adjustment will not allow your sled to Idle properly, or go into reverse well.
The pistons have cut outs where the Wrist pin is. Those cut outs should face your injectors. If you look back at your pictures when you took it apart you will see the cutouts.
I have never witnessed what a sled runs like with pistons in backwards however. If you have all this install correctly and compression is good, we can maybe rule out the pistons and a few other parts. Have you confirmed proper compression yet. I would say rings are set by now and you should be seeing 115-120psi per side.
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- #69
Yes the inner wrist pin that goes directly into the top of the crank? A I don't know if I noticed a grove on there, or If I was told to do it a specific way. The rings are facing the injectors which I believe is correct? Haven't confirmed compression as the new gauge still says 105-106 on both sides. And still says my bothers has 95-96. Gut says cheap Canadian tire gauge is not showing what I want to see.
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007sevens
Active VIP Member
The wrist pin is the pin that hold the piston to the connecting rod. The cutouts I was referring to are part of the piston. If you have the ring caps facing the injectors you have the pistons aligned right.
Like I said before a gauge is just a gauge. I'm gonna say your compression is fine. So this rules out reeds. Injectors gone bad I believe will cause more then just a bog at mid throttle. I had a sled once that had problems because one of the two bolts that hold the fuel rail which also holds your injectors in fell out. Have a look and make sure they are snug. They will strip easy so loctite and snug them up is all I ever do. The Injector wires are glued to the injector themselves, Polaris sells them as a complete package. Injectors and wires. I have heard of people tring to pull the wires off the injector who have caused themselves problems. I can't stress enough about checking all you electrical connections. Pay special attention to the plugs on the ECU that they went on snug and tight. You said your idle is 1800, this is bang on and rules out TPS.
Highclimber
Member
Just a thought, if your kit is the MTNTK performance kit, did you put the off set timing key in the proper way??
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- #72
First of all thanks for the great info! I agree with ruling out any internal issues. Also feel that reeds should be good. As far as injectors go this was the one place where I thought my problem may be if all else fails. Tip of the mag side made contact a couple times with the cylinder while putting back on. I completely took out the pto side from the fuel rail and moved it off to the side. Was carefully but could have done something then. Ensured my o rings were in the port holes and sqaired up, I'd have a bad idle if oke wasn't. My next thing to do is like you say, double check again everything electrical. My last thought is that I simply have to much oil in the tank and ouler turned up for a lean mid range, causing a big until enough fuel is present when I give it more throttle...built on a coupe assumptions but you never know
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- #73
I did not get a timing key, this is the performance fix kit not the full mod, no pipe or head
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Highclimber
Member
Your right, i checked the MTNTK web site, mine was called the drop in kit with head and timing key.
007sevens
Active VIP Member
I seen that In your picture, good luck I hope you find it. I've been there and a small little problem can be a bitch to find and can ruin a lot of trips. If all else fails take it to Chris he will make it right.
007sevens
Active VIP Member
Any luck 
- Thread starter
- #77
- Thread starter
- #78
Well decided against taking it to the dealer, want to get a couple more tests out of the way. I think I can rule out the exhaust valve solenoid. Did some research and some guys have tested it by disconnecting out feed hoses from the exhaust valves and replacing with a single line connecting the two, eliminating the solenoid altogether. Did this but left the solenoid plugged in (can I disconnect without having to have dealer remap?) this unfortunately did not solve my issue. No leak in the ves system. Not looking bright right now lol
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- Thread starter
- #79
What's weird is how consistent the bog is on the stand or on the hill. It's dead on 5050-5800 and it's the same characteristics almost every time, except for the odd time when boondocking Id go to grab a handful it'll continue to bog. This was maybe 4-5times all last weekend. Once again making me lean towards injectors. One other thing is oil consumption. I have oiler turned up 2.5 turns from last season, no change this year. I put on 50 miles oil tank started right full and is now down hallways to the add line. Wonder if my oil line is wide open if I maybe knocked it during install, see photo below.
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