Fix kit for 2013 pro

[Frankenytro]

damn I should do it then, it has about 2700 miles on the original belt and no spare. Dealer what's 350 for it though

At that price you are not “TOO” far off of a tki or c3 kit which run substantial cheaper belts and offer ratio changes plus a tensioner which eliminates the need for the install tools some people use for the quick drive belts. Might just be something to look into... I love my tki kit from chrisco @ parkland Motorsports.

 

[takethebounce]

damn I should do it then, it has about 2700 miles on the original belt and no spare. Dealer what's 350 for it though

I may have a spare kicking around that i would part ways with for a very discounted price.

 

[Diehardrmk]

How discounted we talking here? Pm me

i did look into the tki and c3 quick drives, I would love to go that route but for now I have to watch my money or the wife isn't even going to let me ride lol

 

[Diehardrmk]

Got most of my parts in so I'm starting my build today just had another question, if cylinders are in good shape do I really need to check my bore tolerances? I can't find a dial bore gauge anywhere in town.

 

[TDR]

I just put mine back together. I didn’t measure mine. Cylinders were in excellent shape. I did however run a light hone to clean them up. You need to run a hone meant for nikisil so its not too aggressive. It is ceramic not the typical diamond ones. Did 3 heat cycles and she is ready for a ride.

 

[JMCX]

These are what you want to add to your tool box:

https://www.google.ca/search?client...255...0j35i39k1j0i13k1j0i67k1.253.atHcNpvaOtA

 

[Diehardrmk]

So I tore the motor down and am just cleaning now which is tidious to say the least lol. I accidentally pull one of the injectors out of the fuel rail I immediately put it back in and seems fine, but I was told not to let them pull out should I take it back out and make sure it's good or what? Also all the cross hatches in the cylinder are still there and it's in great shape, I didn't touch it just cleaned it so I'm not going to do a hone. Pistons have nearly exact same tolerance but I haven't check my ring gap yet that's next. Any other tips/advice for putting it all back together ? Thanks again in advance

 

[TDR]

Ring gap is critical and make sure you put the pistons in the right way.

 

[Diehardrmk]

U Bet I already spotted the arrows and I'm going to check ring gap just wanted to clean cylinders first and ran out of time for the day. I didn't disconnect any of the oil lines either so I shouldn't need to bleed the oil system or am I wrong?

 

[Frankenytro]

U Bet I already spotted the arrows and I'm going to check ring gap just wanted to clean cylinders first and ran out of time for the day. I didn't disconnect any of the oil lines either so I shouldn't need to bleed the oil system or am I wrong?

You can pull pull the injectors out of the rail without any concern, you just have to ensure that you find and keep the green o ring located at the end of the injector. These are notorious for staying in the cylinder when injectors are removed and or falling where they can be a royal pain to locate. I would remove the injector again and ensure the o ring is on the injector. If the o ring stayed in the cylinder then I would pull it out with a seal pick being very cautious to not poke or tear it and then reinstall it on the injector prior to pushing it back into the cylinder. Also, a very light smear of 2 stroke oil (and I do mean very light, like just enough for it to look shiny but not be dripping) on the injector o rings will make it all slide back together smooth. If it is tricky to push the rail tight to the cylinder to bolt up DO NOT use the fasteners to put them together as this can severely damage your injectors.

As for ring gap, make sure you measure your ring gap with the ring completely square in the cylinder. You do this by using a piston in the hole to position the ring. If you were doing a rebuild without measuring tooling on hand you can always do a crude taper measurement just by checking ring gap at different positions in the bore. If I were to be going this route I would then be setting my ring gap to my spec of choice at the tightest spot in the hole to ensure no chance of squeaking a piston from too tight of a ring gap. I run 0.021” ring gap and have been very happy and had no issues but know others who have run as tight as a 0.017”-0.019” gap with the same results. Too tight is terrible and too loose is counter productive.

As for your oil situation after every rebuild I always wire the oil pump rod to be in the max position to ensure proper oiling of all engine components and for my turbo sled to ensure the turbo is happy too. This is an easy job and just makes sure that all bases are covered and everything is as happy as it can be. I also use my oil can filled with two stroke oil and oil all of my bottom end while I have the top end apart because it is easy and there are no negative reasons that I can see as to why you wouldn’t. Run the thing with the pump arm at full flow for one heat cycle and it will make sure there is no oiling issues that will come to bite you right after a rebuild.

hopefully this helps a bit. Best of luck!

 

[Diehardrmk]

Thanks for the advice I will do as suggested.
Another thing I noticed was that the new wiseco pistons have much thinner sleeves than the oem is that usually the case?

 

[ABMax24]

Thanks for the advice I will do as suggested.
Another thing I noticed was that the new wiseco pistons have much thinner sleeves than the oem is that usually the case?

Yup, that is the way they are.

 

[Diehardrmk]

So it's all back together but ran out of time to start it up lol. Just wondering what you all recommend for break premix? 32 oz for one tank or half of that?

 

[007sevens]

So it's all back together but ran out of time to start it up lol. Just wondering what you all recommend for break premix? 32 oz for one tank or half of that?

Factory break in would be 1L Blue Polaris two stroke in the tank. Ride it like you stole it from the neighbour after you dinked his daughter.

 

[Diehardrmk]

I heard heat cycling is very important for forged pistons? So you just let it idle to operating temp then shut down and let it cool ?

 

[JMCX]

I heard heat cycling is very important for forged pistons? So you just let it idle to operating temp then shut down and let it cool ?

More old wives tales. Just warm it up when you're going to ride.

 

[007sevens]

I heard heat cycling is very important for forged pistons? So you just let it idle to operating temp then shut down and let it cool ?

I bring it up to temp just to make sure coolant is full and you didn't forget anything. You will need to warm it up before you rip on it. I always watch for the thermostat to open on the first few miles in the morning. Never rip on it before that thermostat is open. You may four corner seize. My typical practice is to hold it around 5000-6500 on the trail watching temp rise, you will see it drop when it opens and just back off a little till it rises again and then hold it to the bar all the way to cabin. BRAAAAAAAAAAAAAP BRAAP

 

[JMCX]

That's good advice to warm it up good once to check for leaks. The best way to get the air out of the system is to lift the front of the sled higj enough that the tunnel slopes up toward the motor.

 

[Diehardrmk]

I had the front of the sled raised higher than the tunnel throughout the entire rebuild, I warmed it up to 120 and let it cool twice and no leaks. I'm bringing it home later this week and going for a rip on my property to make sure she runs tip top then we head to the mountains for a real break in

 

[007sevens]

I had the front of the sled raised higher than the tunnel throughout the entire rebuild, I warmed it up to 120 and let it cool twice and no leaks. I'm bringing it home later this week and going for a rip on my property to make sure she runs tip top then we head to the mountains for a real break in

You need to make sure you see the thermostat open. This will allow full coolant to flow.