Clutching

~Rowdy~

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I would clean your clutches, try the adjustable pins, see what weight works, and also get a set of quick clickers. After that, if it doesn't work, then you are not out any $$$ and can still get a full kit. You are going to need some button holders, might have a set or two kicking around.......LOL...I'll put them in your goody bag.

Perfect! Thats the route I will go! And thanks! I think I owe you a bottle of scotch now!
 

maxwell

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Woah woah woah! Lol!! I didn't read the thread on my blackberry otherwise ill never be able to see again. I'm sure its already been mentioned but fawk the clutch kit you have an underlying issue. Let's get that sorted out first. Throwing a clutch kit in the mix will only complicate things.
 

bayman

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Like Maxwell said, something else is causing the sudden rpm loss. Did you change the length of track when the new one was installed, check rave valve hoses, check the bushings in the primary forsure.

My Xp wouldn't pull rpms either. Went through the clutch, rollers, o-rings, pucks....for the first time since i installed the DJ kit, I had to change the clickers from 4 to 5 to 6. Pulled cords on two belts even with a floating secondary.Sled was telling me something, actually screaming at me, but I was too dumb to listen. Motor is on the work bench now and will be going to Terra Alps for a crank rebuild and big bore. Lost the mag side connecting rod bearing and fawked the jugs.

Anyway, what I'm saying is, it might not be the clutches. The guy in Airdrie with the clutch kits is "dropthehammer" on here and dootalk....Brad Cadiuex,his number is listed on dootalk forsure in his signature. Good Luck:beer::beer:
 

my mod

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Don't make too many changes at once. Changing your track, snow conditions, as well as temperature all will have some bearing on what the sled will do and RPM's. Regular maintenance is a big thing that a lot of people don't do, and then they throw on a new clutch kit and say how much better it is that the old one that was not maintained and worn out.
Clutching is fairly basic, but tricky. The clickers on the primary just change the angle of the ramps inside the clutch. and the pin weights are on the end of the leavers that run up and down the ramps. There is also a spring in there that holds back the leavers. The first place to start is to replace the springs (both). They are continually being compressed, and after a while they get weak alowing the leavers to squeeze harder or allow the seconday to open too fast and therefore changing your RPM's.
Those springs should be replaced at least once a year. They are no different than the springs on a chair or couch. the older they are or the more they are sat on and squished, the weaker they get.
That is the first place to start.
Once that is done, and you still want to lower your RPM's, you can take a little pin weight out ( make sure you take the same amount out of each leaver), making the engine rev higher, so you will have to lower the clickers making the ramps a little steeper and load everything up so the revs will come back down. It will not take very much at all to make major changes so remember or write down what you have done and see what has happened so you know if it is better or worse.
Do not make changes at the end of this year and try it next year because there will be snow and temperature conditions that will not be the same.
This is based on there is no other issues with the sled like time to replace pistons or some other issues like other people have said

This is some of the basics.
 
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mxz sledhead

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It wouldn't hurt to rebuild your clutch I did my 01 mxz for about $300 its not a hard job to do it really improve the old girl its safe to run at 7850 rpm I seen people run it on the red line ride after ride not recommended it I did spend money on some tools to hold buttons in place and made some tools hold the main spring in place which all it was a peice of all tread and big washers
 

maxwell

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300 bucks to rebuild what did you replace?

either way shes out 1000 rpm. thats more than a pin weight issue. i think a bushing issue or a few other things.

what type of belt are you running?

what is the current ride height of the belt in the secondary?

any idea how many shims are in the secondary?

what gearing combination is in your chaincase?

what type of drivers did you change too? size teeth etc.

what track did you switch to?

when was the last time your clutch was apart and inspected?

does the rpm hit 8100 then fade to 7000 or is it a consistant 7000rpm?

what is the fitness of the bearings in your jackshaft and trackshaft?

what is the compression on both engine cylinders?
 

teamgreen

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300 bucks to rebuild what did you replace?

either way shes out 1000 rpm. thats more than a pin weight issue. i think a bushing issue or a few other things.

what type of belt are you running?

what is the current ride height of the belt in the secondary?

any idea how many shims are in the secondary?

what gearing combination is in your chaincase?

what type of drivers did you change too? size teeth etc.

what track did you switch to?

when was the last time your clutch was apart and inspected?

does the rpm hit 8100 then fade to 7000 or is it a consistant 7000rpm?

what is the fitness of the bearings in your jackshaft and trackshaft?

what is the compression on both engine cylinders?

Maxwell is gay

From Teamgreen and T-team
 

dirtball08

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Ok, you put in new engine, chan6ged track, and now your not reaching a specified rpm. Primary bushing wear, roller to pin busging wear, weight to pin bushing wear, spring tension on both primary and secondary clutchs, and belt width will all have factors on rpm.

First and foremost, is to make sure both clutchs are ok. Make sure your reeds are good, not broke or bent up when you pull them put.Once you are sure the clutchs and reeds are ok, then you can look at clutch kits.

My own work with my 04 summit highmark x 800 159", is that you have to check your clutchs wear every year to make sure your good. How much you ride is going to be the varible. Bought sled 2nd hand, rebuild both clutchs, 1400kms later, changed belt, and primary spring. To let you know, did not treat the sled nicely.

2nd year, 900 kms, everything ok. 3rd year, rebuilt primary and new belt. Installed Dj clutch kit,and 7pc vent kit, could not beleive the difference. I have no experience with RB, just know that if you set Djs up the way he says, it rocks.

Just remember, no clutch kit kit is going fix anything if the basics are not right.

PM me if you have any questions.
 

OOC ZigZag

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300 bucks to rebuild what did you replace?

either way shes out 1000 rpm. thats more than a pin weight issue. i think a bushing issue or a few other things.

what type of belt are you running?

what is the current ride height of the belt in the secondary?

any idea how many shims are in the secondary?

what gearing combination is in your chaincase?

what type of drivers did you change too? size teeth etc.

what track did you switch to?

when was the last time your clutch was apart and inspected?

does the rpm hit 8100 then fade to 7000 or is it a consistant 7000rpm?

what is the fitness of the bearings in your jackshaft and trackshaft?

what is the compression on both engine cylinders?

I think he's onto something here Rowdy. You did change track and drivers, i didn't see that at first, Sooo you could possibly need gearing change. Maxwell knows his chit with the Doo's :beer::d
 

pipes

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Clutching is very simple. Changing clicker positions will affect your rpms by about 200. Normally around home you would be on 1 or 2. in the mountains 5 or 6. Your sled runs optimal at 7800 I believe.

To change clicker position take a 10 mil wrench and loosen the three nuts on the primary DO NOT REMOVE the nut completely just enough so you can spin it to the new postion which are marked around the nut. Do one at a time taking care that the nut is not removed.

I was wondering how long it was before some one actually gave her an honest answer
 

maxwell

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I was wondering how long it was before some one actually gave her an honest answer

Ya that's how the clicker works but that's not the issue

out 1000rpm

on clicker 4

math doesnt even add up to pull proper rpms unless she has a magic 10 point clicker.

if your out 1000 rpm on any clicker this is a sign of something else. 200rpm per clicker is a rough estimate but depending on your sled going up a clicker may only effect it 50rpm. depending on snow conditions and temp. it may just load it enough to pull a more consistant rpm without changing the peak rpm by 200 or even 100 for that matter.
 
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~Rowdy~

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300 bucks to rebuild what did you replace?

either way shes out 1000 rpm. thats more than a pin weight issue. i think a bushing issue or a few other things.

what type of belt are you running? --> 383
what is the current ride height of the belt in the secondary? --> how do I measure this?

any idea how many shims are in the secondary? --> no idea

what gearing combination is in your chaincase? --> no idea

what type of drivers did you change too? size teeth etc. --> no idea, lol. extroverted drivers. see pic below

what track did you switch to? --> camo plast 9940 2.313 paddles 2.52 pitch

when was the last time your clutch was apart and inspected? --> last summer
does the rpm hit 8100 then fade to 7000 or is it a consistant 7000rpm? --> faded
what is the fitness of the bearings in your jackshaft and trackshaft? --> no idea

what is the compression on both engine cylinders? --> no idea

wow I'm not much help... :(
 

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~Rowdy~

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So basically maxwell I should bring my whole sled up in the summer, feed you beer and figure this out? :beer: I had no idea all those things had so much effect on the clutches.
 

OOC ZigZag

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So basically maxwell I should bring my whole sled up in the summer, feed you beer and figure this out? :beer: I had no idea all those things had so much effect on the clutches.

Now you got a project:beer::d
 
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