I would clean your clutches, try the adjustable pins, see what weight works, and also get a set of quick clickers. After that, if it doesn't work, then you are not out any $$$ and can still get a full kit. You are going to need some button holders, might have a set or two kicking around.......LOL...I'll put them in your goody bag.
300 bucks to rebuild what did you replace?
either way shes out 1000 rpm. thats more than a pin weight issue. i think a bushing issue or a few other things.
what type of belt are you running?
what is the current ride height of the belt in the secondary?
any idea how many shims are in the secondary?
what gearing combination is in your chaincase?
what type of drivers did you change too? size teeth etc.
what track did you switch to?
when was the last time your clutch was apart and inspected?
does the rpm hit 8100 then fade to 7000 or is it a consistant 7000rpm?
what is the fitness of the bearings in your jackshaft and trackshaft?
what is the compression on both engine cylinders?
Maxwell is gay
From Teamgreen and T-team
I agree. He seems happy, almost joyousMaxwell is gay
From Teamgreen and T-team
300 bucks to rebuild what did you replace?
either way shes out 1000 rpm. thats more than a pin weight issue. i think a bushing issue or a few other things.
what type of belt are you running?
what is the current ride height of the belt in the secondary?
any idea how many shims are in the secondary?
what gearing combination is in your chaincase?
what type of drivers did you change too? size teeth etc.
what track did you switch to?
when was the last time your clutch was apart and inspected?
does the rpm hit 8100 then fade to 7000 or is it a consistant 7000rpm?
what is the fitness of the bearings in your jackshaft and trackshaft?
what is the compression on both engine cylinders?
Clutching is very simple. Changing clicker positions will affect your rpms by about 200. Normally around home you would be on 1 or 2. in the mountains 5 or 6. Your sled runs optimal at 7800 I believe.
To change clicker position take a 10 mil wrench and loosen the three nuts on the primary DO NOT REMOVE the nut completely just enough so you can spin it to the new postion which are marked around the nut. Do one at a time taking care that the nut is not removed.
I was wondering how long it was before some one actually gave her an honest answer
300 bucks to rebuild what did you replace?
either way shes out 1000 rpm. thats more than a pin weight issue. i think a bushing issue or a few other things.
what type of belt are you running? --> 383
what is the current ride height of the belt in the secondary? --> how do I measure this?
any idea how many shims are in the secondary? --> no idea
what gearing combination is in your chaincase? --> no idea
what type of drivers did you change too? size teeth etc. --> no idea, lol. extroverted drivers. see pic below
what track did you switch to? --> camo plast 9940 2.313 paddles 2.52 pitch
when was the last time your clutch was apart and inspected? --> last summer
does the rpm hit 8100 then fade to 7000 or is it a consistant 7000rpm? --> faded
what is the fitness of the bearings in your jackshaft and trackshaft? --> no idea
what is the compression on both engine cylinders? --> no idea
I shoulda put this thread in where ski-doo stuff is I guess too. whoops.
So basically maxwell I should bring my whole sled up in the summer, feed you beer and figure this out? I had no idea all those things had so much effect on the clutches.