Clutching

[~Rowdy~]

Rowdy, the guy to ask is Duck...I call him "O'Wise One". He'll be able to tell you exactly what to doo. I'd be lost without his help...
J

is he on here J?

 

[~Rowdy~]

Now you got a project:d

haha yeah...just what I need. lol. nah it should be good. I hope it won't cost me a lot.

 

[teeroy]

if you come to revy I can pop your clutch off and have a look Rowdy. takes minutes to remove and inspect the guts.

 

[fatguy1]

wow I'm not much help...

Your picture shows 8 tooth drivers on your "trackshaft" or driveshaft.

Is this the exact same you had before the track swap?

 

[~Rowdy~]

Your picture shows 8 tooth drivers on your "trackshaft" or driveshaft.

Is this the exact same you had before the track swap?

No it's completely different. The old driver was smooth and round, no teeth. And I should mention that the guy that sold me the f**king sled had the wrong track on it too...one from an '01 skidoo with 2" paddles.

 

[fatguy1]

I knew you swaped tracks but didn't realize you went with a longer track.
The 9940 is a 151" correct???

Did your 1000 rpm drop happen right after your track upgrade (the next ride out), or were your rpms the same as before and now all the sudden they dropped?

 

[~Rowdy~]

I knew you swaped tracks but didn't realize you went with a longer track.
The 9940 is a 151" correct???

Did your 1000 rpm drop happen right after your track upgrade (the next ride out), or were your rpms the same as before and now all the sudden they dropped?

Yes it's a 151" track. No I didn't go to a longer track. Just larger paddles. My first ride with the new track my rpms dropped. Was at Forester and went to climb a hill and my rpms were up then faded off. Dropped down to about 7000. I clickered up to 6 and then it seemed to be ok afterwards, but still not pulling ideal RPM's. It was weird. But could have been the snow we were in that day. Next day found some pow in a secret stash and she seemed to pull fine. I was still clickered up.

 

[maxwell]

Pull off your chaincase cover and count the teeth on each gear. Who knows what the last guy did

 

[~Rowdy~]

Pull off your chaincase cover and count the teeth on each gear. Who knows what the last guy did

K will do. After May long...lol. I took off the cover, cleaned it all out and tightened up the chain when I threw on the new track and what not.

 

[fatguy1]

Pull off your chaincase cover and count the teeth on each gear. Who knows what the last guy did

Yup!, I'm wondering what's in that chaincase also...

I thought the 04 revs with a 144' had 10 tooth drivers (your old round ones) and the ones in your picture are 8 tooth, that's a pretty large "gear down" if your just changing the lug depth and not the track length.

The fact it happened right after the track change and seeing these drivers tells me it's a setup issue.

 

[~Rowdy~]

Yup!, I'm wondering what's in that chaincase also...

I thought the 04 revs with a 144' had 10 tooth drivers (your old round ones) and the ones in your picture are 8 tooth, that's a pretty large "gear down" if your just changing the lug depth and not the track length.

The fact it happened right after the track change and seeing these drivers tells me it's a setup issue.

No idea. Had some pro help with the track and drivers so I'd have to assume otherwise. My sled's always been a 151, the old track was wrong, and the drivers would have been to. I won't rule anything out considering the JA that sold it to me. Yep, all that was changed was the drivers, put in an anti stab kit, new custom made limiters and new track with different pitch and larger paddles. I had no idea that would affect the clutching. One buddy told me I should probably buy new gear and chain for my chain case this summer. Could that be it? Ir maybe it was just the difference in snow?

 

[maxwell]

If the track came from a 2001 it would only have been 15 inch wide aswell

 

[~Rowdy~]

If the track came from a 2001 it would only have been 15 inch wide aswell

That is correct. I was not in the least surprised when I found this out that the guy sold me the sled with the wrong track on it.

 

[maxwell]

Correct setup should hold rated rpm in all snow conditions and temp. Up or down one clicker would be the only change you should have to make

 

[~Rowdy~]

*sigh* well, I'll get it sorted one way or another. It's gonna have to wait until after May long. No point in tearing her down now.

Thanks again guys. Appreciate all the info. Learning so much. Making my head spin all this info...or were those the drinks I had last night...either way, thanks. I better get some work done 2.5hrs left. I'll keep this thread up after May long. Glad I didn't just go out and buy a clutch kit!

 

[Modman]

peace

 

[fatguy1]

OMG..... you guys are going to have her spending thousands of dollars on phantom problems that don't even exist. let's not over-complicate this whole thing.

She changed the track so she has a little more bite, the last time she rode it was sunny and hot, her motor was hot and she was at 7500-8000 ft above sea level......pretty sure that combination is going to cause a drop in HP, meaning the need to clicker up. That's the whole point of clickers on the TRA, because you can't change the ramps/weights externally like on any of the other 3 brands. A drop in RPM at elevation on a hot day does not mean she needs a compression check, or that her reeds are screwed, or that she needs her clutch rebuilt. That's just throwing money at a non-existent problem.

Stock tach could be out a little, and I wouldn't run that motor over 7900 rpm, since that is where it makes peak torque, but that's just me. No counterbalance shaft on that 800....

Slow down buddy, don't lump everyone posting on this issue as "you guys"...

I'm just trying to gather some factual data as are some others, I agree with your high elevation/hot weather statement and have seen a large rpm drop on my own sled due to this issue, however it wasn't a 1000 rpm. IMHO I think it's a combination of her new setup and the snow/temp/elevation, but would like to know more facts and compression would be one that could rule out any engine issues (Her engines pretty new for issues already)

 

[maxwell]

were talking about 1000rpm here modman.

im not saying go replace everything. but there are certain maintenance items that need to be addressed every so many miles you know this. ( set 2 springs on a table one new one and one with 2000 miles on it ).

also its never a bad idea to know whats in your sled. drivers/gearing etc.

i ride all season from -30 to +20 ive never seen a 1000rpm drop simply because of temperature and elevation change maybe 100 rpm. other issues....yes.

all im suggesting is find out how your sled is setup.

and inspect/clean change certain parts and go from there. ( both springs, buttons, helix slider cams,) inspect rollers,ramps, spring cup bushings for proper tolerance.

any sled with any track should hold 8000rpm on clicker 4/5 at 8000ft regardless of temperature.

being on clicker 6 and "almost" being at the rated rpm is not correct.

 

[fatguy1]

were talking about 1000rpm here modman.

im not saying go replace everything. but there are certain maintenance items that need to be addressed every so many miles you know this. ( set 2 springs on a table one new one and one with 2000 miles on it ).

also its never a bad idea to know whats in your sled. drivers/gearing etc.

i ride all season from -30 to +20 ive never seen a 1000rpm drop simply because of temperature and elevation change maybe 100 rpm. other issues....yes.

all im suggesting is find out how your sled is setup.

and inspect/clean change certain parts and go from there. ( both springs, buttons, helix slider cams,) inspect rollers,ramps, spring cup bushings for proper tolerance.

any sled with any track should hold 8000rpm on clicker 4/5 at 8000ft regardless of temperature.

Yeah, what he said:d:d:d

 

[maxwell]

maybe i should actually read the thread now that im not on my phone