C3 Powersports Synchrodrive

[big_vernster]

Wondering if anyone has tried/tested out the aftermarket synchrodrive setup on the pros. How are they holding up? Any extended belt life? Easy belt changes? Also wondering if anyone has a turbo setup with the synchrodrive, and if it holds up better, went through four belts last season hoping the C3 solves the problem...

 

[tavis43]

I have it on mine and after switching over I have only blown one belt. That was my fault as I had it to tight .this will be my second season on it. Blew to many expensive Polaris belts

 

[big_vernster]

Yeah the C3 belts are a lot cheaper. In theory should pay for itself over time. Tired of spending $200+ on polaris belts, not to mention the pain in the ass of changing them in the mountains.

 

[4x4racing]

I have one on a turbo pro only broke one belt last season but I head it too tight and on a large drop changing out belts isn't a big deal

 

[0neoldfart]

Have a C3 Syncrodrive on my wife's 2013 Pro RMK with a 660 kit, one on my 2013 285hp M1100T, and one on the backup 2013 M800 with Jaws pipe. No issues, no blown belts. Setting the correct tension is critical, once done they are pretty much bulletproof. Good product, well thought out. You may have to deal with fitment issues depending on who's turbo kit you're running (call and see if they've installed one on your model).

 

[+SLEDWRECKS+]

Have one on my 11 Pro w/ Boost. I've broken one as well, but I had twisted it when removing my broken drive shaft so it was my own doing.
They are quite strong when tensioned properly, I snapped the drive shaft off and the belt held ! But must check tension on it every ride when breaking in a new belt. Keep an eye on the bottom bolt as it likes to back out a bit too. Easy belt change for a stocker, or just have to remove the down pipe to replace belt with a turbo setup.

 

[Teth-Air]

If you are looking at these, also consider the TKI drive. I run on 2 sleds and all I can say is wow. These sleds really benefit from being geared down. If you ride hard you ARE pulling strings on the clutch belt. Gearing down pretty much eliminates this and you certainly pay for the belt drive kit with the savings in clutch belts. There are other reasons to do this too, smoother and way more reliable than stock. Rolls easier too.

 

[big_vernster]

I went with the C3, with my turbo set up I'll have to do a few minor modifications so that it will fit. Wish I would have known about the TKI drive first, no mods required with that kit. Hope it works as good as everyone says!

 

[samsquatch47]

So what's different about a TKI belt drive that doesn't require mods for a turbo? What mods are you guys having to do to a C3 for a turbo? I run the C3 with oil delete on my 12 M8 with a TSS turbo. No mods were necessary... Just put it on and ride.

 

[0neoldfart]

So what's different about a TKI belt drive that doesn't require mods for a turbo? What mods are you guys having to do to a C3 for a turbo? I run the C3 with oil delete on my 12 M8 with a TSS turbo. No mods were necessary... Just put it on and ride.

It may not require modification, depending on turbo outlet location and muffler. I know I had to relocate the battery (slightly) on my wife's Pro to accomodate the tensioner that C3 provides. Both Proclimbs were a straightforward bolt on product. There is mention on SW that the TKI's plastic oil tank can have clearance issues with SOME mufflers on the Proclimb, so do your homework and ask if your muffler or turbo setup will fit. One thing to mention on the Proclimb: the C3 unit comes with mounts and new bearings, I believe the TKI unit only comes with bearings. C3 has had these on the snow since late 2012, the TKI is a fairly new product (at least for the Proclimb).

 

[sledhead9825]

I have a 2013 Boost-it Pro. The TKI belt drive went in, without any modifications. The critical part is setting the tension when the sled is warm,the sleds chassis grows a lot . Same belt all year and looks like new. Very happy with it,and the guys at Teth-air are great to deal with.

 

[007sevens]

Have a C3 installed on a Pro with a HM 240 kit. No issues with proper tension. Blew the first one because it was to tight. The gears expand when heated, its that tension that breaks them. When installing them run it with about 3/4 inch deflection and check it regularly as you warm the gears up. It should have about 1/4 inch deflection after the gears have expanded fully.

 

[big_vernster]

All good info guys, thanks. Sounds like the biggest thing is getting the tension right

 

[Teth-Air]

Most guys think that the tensioner is the magical thing to these belt drives compared to stock, well it is and it isn't. Firstly you do need a tensioner but success is not all about tension. The fact that the after market belts wrap around the top pulley and contact at least 3/4 of the pulley at all times compared to the stocker that contacts less than half of the pulley at all times. It is easy to understand that the failures usually occur at the top pulley and if the pulley has more "hold" on the belt it will less likely slip and strip. You can then also run the belt a bit looser than stock and this makes the sled roll much easier than the with stock QuickDrive.

Now you consider gearing,

Stock Pro 2.09:1
Stock 15 Cat 2.62:1 (so I hear, it could still be 2.52:1 on some models)
Stock Doo 2.52:1

You can see that the Pro's are geared for the lake and not for the mountains. Polaris has great clutching stock but we pulled strings on the clutch belt on our 600 and 800"s in stock form. These belts are up to $220 each and we were only getting 300-500 km's on them. Once geared, the Pro's are easier to gently pull up a sled ramp or sneak out of a stuck without spinning the track so much. I think guys that load on a sled deck will know what I am talking about. In the stock form if you try walking the sled up a deck it can easily be flipped off the ramp if your too hard on the throttle. Try that with a Doo, you can walk it up very controllably.

We tried Dayco and Carlisle clutch belts, both worked okay but the Dayco ran hard and rough while the Carlisle exploded and took out my foot well.

As soon as we geared the Pro down to 2.25 and 2.42(on the 600) the clutch belts started lasting much longer and the primary clutch was much cooler.

This told us that the belt was slipping in the primary and at low speeds, in the trees, the belt would sit low in the primary clutch where there was a small diameter and very little in contact with the belt. By gearing down, at the same speed the belt would ride higher and have more contact with the clutch faces.

The belt drive was paid for in the first season with the reduction of clutch belts bought. Additionally we switched to the Cat 048 belt ($125) as it is soft and sticky and lasts as long as the Poo stock belt.

Finally we installed Carl's Clutching and had the primary's machined and balanced by Carl's and the sleds felt like they had 10 more HP while running super smooth. Carl's actually machines the face of the clutch to match the belt angle and sets the correct spacing to accept the belt prior to spin balancing them. I am told that the stock clutch has an angle on the face that does not match the belt as this makes engagement smoother for the trail riders. I have not measured the angles myself but if true, this non-match in angles will also allow more slippage in the primary clutch.

These easy changes really make the Pro much more fun, easier to ride and increase reliability.

I have a 14, 800 163 and just traded the 13, 600 155 for another 800 163 now that I am more confident in the 800 Liberty motors. This one I am deviating from the Carl's standard clutching a bit as it will get 2.42 gearing, a different primary spring and a different helix. These changes are to load the machine a bit more and get a bit more track speed.

The top pulley in the one picture is without the hard anodizing, but they all get anodized black. Tom has now also lightened up the tensioner a bit in the newer kits ad has also added tensioning bolt which makes it really easy to adjust.

Chris

 

[TDR]

Anyone else have experiences to share from this season? I just had the pleasure of changing my first belt in my trailer this weekend. What a PITA. How Polaris came up with that setup I'll never understand. End up way back and that sucker blows and you have a serious issue on your hands. Chopper time. Both my Pros are getting changed before next season.

 

[007sevens]

Anyone else have experiences to share from this season? I just had the pleasure of changing my first belt in my trailer this weekend. What a PITA. How Polaris came up with that setup I'll never understand. End up way back and that sucker blows and you have a serious issue on your hands. Chopper time. Both my Pros are getting changed before next season.

Use your secondary spacer as a guide.

 

[TDR]

I had the tools but getting the gear onto the spline was a 2 man job under ideal conditions. Never again.

 

[+SLEDWRECKS+]

We change many stock belts without removing the bottom gear. Just need someone to spin the track as the other walks the belt on with the sled on its side.
I run a C3 on mine, and have only been through one belt (twisted the belt bad trying to remove a snapped drive shaft) to only have it blow the belt 100 meters from where the shaft was replaced. But atleast the spare C3 belt is only $ 100.00

 

[TDR]

So you change the belt with both gears on and just walk the lower one on?

 

[big_vernster]

Yeah it's happened to me probably 4 times. Thankfully i had two guys to help every time. Two guys to force the pulleys/belt back on and one guy to spin the track. Everyone had bloody knuckles at the end and it took a lot of tries and frustration. Even with using the polaris tools to slide it on. Reason enough to get an aftermarket setup IMO