C3 belt drive questions

[M1ryguy]

Hey just checking if anyone has run one of these kits on their sled, I was thinking of putting one on my sidewinder for the obvious reason (weight) but also wondering how they are holding up? I don't need anymore belt blowing issues than what I had last year lol. I talked to specialty and they have guys running them in 600hp drag sleds without issues, they seem legit. Thanks

 

[kingcat162]

I'm running a tki belt drive on a boosted xm - 5000kms original belt - proper tension is crucial

 

[M1ryguy]

I'm running a tki belt drive on a boosted xm - 5000kms original belt - proper tension is crucial

Nice! Thats pretty damn good and on boost too. Ya I heard that proper tension is key, thanks alot

 

[kingcat162]

Nice! Thats pretty damn good and on boost too. Ya I heard that proper tension is key, thanks alot

Ya man - u gotta check belt tension when everything is hot/warm cuz the sprockets expand - and I've only heard of people having issues if u slam on the brakes hard like in mid air if your jumping - it can shred the belt or the sprockets depending

 

[M1ryguy]

Also wondering what gear ratio to run as well. My stock gearing is 2.33 and the options are 2.33, 2.42, 2.52, 2.63. my sled is tuned so I should probably gear up I would think?

 

[Teth-Air]

Also wondering what gear ratio to run as well. My stock gearing is 2.33 and the options are 2.33, 2.42, 2.52, 2.63. my sled is tuned so I should probably gear up I would think?

Why would you want to gear up? You should gear down. Going with a higher ratio or lower gearing will make the sleds top speed slower but most sledding out west is in the mountains. If top speed on the lake is your thing then okay gear up. Keep in mind the 4 stroke sleds lose their reverse with the belt drive kits.

 

[Lunch_Box]

It will work just fine Ryan, buddy put on his sled last season and no issues (Evo stage 4, exhaust,...). He went with basically stock gearing and was happy with it. I plan one adding one with season as well.

 

[M1ryguy]

It will work just fine Ryan, buddy put on his sled last season and no issues (Evo stage 4, exhaust,...). He went with basically stock gearing and was happy with it. I plan one adding one with season as well.

Ok right on, I texted you last night I knew you had some experience with it lol, you doing the C3 or TKI?

 

[M1ryguy]

Why would you want to gear up? You should gear down. Going with a higher ratio or lower gearing will make the sleds top speed slower but most sledding out west is in the mountains. If top speed on the lake is your thing then okay gear up. Keep in mind the 4 stroke sleds lose their reverse with the belt drive kits.

Figured with the extra horsepower it could pull a taller gear ratio, am I wrong on this are guys gearing them down? I only ride mountains

 

[Lunch_Box]

Ok right on, I texted you last night I knew you had some experience with it lol, you doing the C3 or TKI?

Im over in Angola so would be why I didn't get the text. Im on whatsapp if you have it. C3, support local and if you need help they are there. They were great with assistance when needed for my buddy.

As for gearing, the belt drive is so much more efficient you will gain significant throttle response on factory ratio. Ill ask him if he would have changed the gearing after a season riding on it.

 

[M1ryguy]

Im over in Angola so would be why I didn't get the text. Im on whatsapp if you have it. C3, support local and if you need help they are there. They were great with assistance when needed for my buddy.

As for gearing, the belt drive is so much more efficient you will gain significant throttle response on factory ratio. Ill ask him if he would have changed the gearing after a season riding on it.

Ok right on thanks Kris, if you don't mind asking him about the gearing and I will order, I'll be doing a C3 also.

 

[Modman]

Figured with the extra horsepower it could pull a taller gear ratio, am I wrong on this are guys gearing them down? I only ride mountains

by "Tuned" what do you mean? If you've got a jacked way up, maybe a marginally taller gear but keep in mind that when starting out in loose snow, taller gearing works against you since it wants to spin the track at higher RPM too early, like starting out or picking your way through the trees at slower speeds. You just wind up with a trench digger because it shovels too much out the back before you get moving. Easiest way to tell if you need more or less gearing is to sharpie your clutches and watch your track speeds on the hill. If you need more info on how to do that, shoot me a PM. Most stock gearing is tall enough to give you the top end you need on the hill for climbing, but balances the slow speed riding and deep snow starts. If all you're doing is racing straight up the bowls, sure, go a bit taller. If you are doing technical riding, more gearing is not going to help much since you're probably not using what you have. If you can hold 60 mph to 70 mph track speed on the hill, you should be fine.

 

[M1ryguy]

Ya makes sense thanks for the info, you now made the decision even harder lol really I ride trees the most so maybe going with stock ratio or even going down a bit would work, I ordered the kit today so I better make a decision

 

[007sevens]

I have a C3 Belt drive on a 240hp Hm Turbo. It works flawless. Belt tension is critical. The pulley will heat and expand and blow the belt. It almost looks way to loose cold.

 

[M1ryguy]

I have a C3 Belt drive on a 240hp Hm Turbo. It works flawless. Belt tension is critical. The pulley will heat and expand and blow the belt. It almost looks way to loose cold.

So how loose are you setting the tension? Just waiting on my kit right now I’m sure there’s some instructions in there.

 

[007sevens]

Its been awhile, I think tension is a 1/2" deflection. I set it to tight on the initial test and didn't make it more then a few miles before it snapped. It looks and feels incredibly loose during set up. Once warmed up its tighter but not so tight it doesn't deflect. running 240hp through it and have never stripped a tooth on the belt. I had a couple failures with the polaris OEM belts.

My suggestion is to check it as you get heat into the pulleys ad don't allow it it get so tight that it wont deflect. The belt will not stretch.

 

[M1ryguy]

Its been awhile, I think tension is a 1/2" deflection. I set it to tight on the initial test and didn't make it more then a few miles before it snapped. It looks and feels incredibly loose during set up. Once warmed up its tighter but not so tight it doesn't deflect. running 240hp through it and have never stripped a tooth on the belt. I had a couple failures with the polaris OEM belts.

My suggestion is to check it as you get heat into the pulleys ad don't allow it it get so tight that it wont deflect. The belt will not stretch.

Right on, thanks for the info!

 

[0neoldfart]

I ran a C3 drive on a M1100T that was equipped with an EVO BC285 Turbo Kit for a few years, no belt issues. Mine was also geared 2.42:1 with 8 tooth drivers, I personally preferred it to the 2.33:1 ratio, worked well.

 

[oler1234]

Im over in Angola so would be why I didn't get the text. Im on whatsapp if you have it. C3, support local and if you need help they are there. They were great with assistance when needed for my buddy.

As for gearing, the belt drive is so much more efficient you will gain significant throttle response on factory ratio. Ill ask him if he would have changed the gearing after a season riding on it.

fake news... sorry.

do some research, chain drive... especially lubricated with a hyvo is the most efficient. only a couple of brands that have this setup.

efficiencies are based chain/belt RPM. in lower speed situations the chain is more efficient. most people riding out west will be in the low chain/belt RPM area.

 

[Levithan]

Not fake news.
I have one and i can tell you from experience, the throttle response is hugely improved.
Belt drive's are way more efficient than chain drives, less rotating mass is huegly more efficent.
If you could make a chain drive have the same rotating mass as a belt drive you may have an argument but since that's not possible drive for drive there is no argument.
Way easier to fix a broken belt than a broken chain or tensioner on the hill as well.