Building a garage-shop , need help

Frosty19

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What’s everyone running for slope? We’ve built a few shops now and I keep going steeper and steeper I hate water sitting in the floor. One contractor wouldn’t go as steep as I wanted said my toolboxes would be rolling around etc lol whatever

Standard is usually 1/4" per foot (2%) and I would think with a nice finish and sealer it should run water relatively well.
Can go steeper (every 1/8" would be 1%) but I don't know at what point stuff starts rolling away from you lol
 

mareshow

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I know a plumber who does a lot of in floor heat installs and he says he would never put it in a shop. The cost is astronomical and the maintenance on the boiler is a pain in the ass. He said radiant tube heaters all the way. I plan on doing radiant tube heaters and a wood-burning stove in my shop, but the stove is going to be a big one capable of heating 3000 square feet. That being said, my house has in floor heat through the whole thing and it is phenomenal. I don't know if I could do without again
Your plumber friend obviously doesn't understand how to set up a boiler correctly if the maintenance is a PITA. Radiant works exactly the same as infloor only inverse, the difference being operating cost and comfort. Yes the initial capital cost of infloor is higher but the operating cost is the lowest. I do a lot of boilers every year on that premise. I have some 10,000 sq ft homes that have lower utility bills than some 2500 sq ft homes. And considering that utilities go up an average of 7% per year, operating cost should be a bigger thought than it usually is.

I'm building a house soon with an attached shop, and I'm going in floor all the way. For the doors opening and closing that isn't much of a concern for me but if it were you could put in an air curtain or unit heater to offset that initial chill.


It can be, depends on glycol strength.
Glycol usually doesn't freeze, it jells up or may become slushy depending on percentage. We recently had a customer of ours slab freeze due to it being disconnected by the owner (whoops haha) and surprisingly it didn't break anything, only caused the pipe to swell a bit near the header. Glycol doesn't expand as much as water so thats what saved him. no leaks in the slab either.
 

ctd

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and what's the problem?
The problem is the OP, this is the guy that will remove the seals from a roller bearing & re pack it. Frugal is re defined LOL.

You & I need to talk in the future, I've a bigger shop in the back of my mind & need some real life/world expertise what way to go.
 

Cyle

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Standard is usually 1/4" per foot (2%) and I would think with a nice finish and sealer it should run water relatively well.
Can go steeper (every 1/8" would be 1%) but I don't know at what point stuff starts rolling away from you lol

1% is less slope then 2%, you've got it backwards.

2% is standard for outside concrete, and is way too much inside unless it's a wash bay, it is not a good idea for anyone using it for working on.

1% absolutely tops. The best way to avoid puddles and having a lot of slope is a trench drain so water doesn't have to run as far. Ditch the small 18x18 drain in the middle of the bay where you have it sloping from all sides, it's a pain in the ass and doesn't drain as well. In a 30x30 let's say, have 30' of trench drain in the middle and you'll need very little slope.
 

tex78

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Have you priced out going ICF's?
I'm just getting started on planning a build almost identical to your specs. Curious to see how this pans out.
No I haven't

Was told if ground is good, and tubes done right , there is not much benefit to a insulated footing

Other than all the extra concrete to do them , just about does the hole shop floor
 

greenthumb

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No I haven't

Was told if ground is good, and tubes done right , there is not much benefit to a insulated footing

Other than all the extra concrete to do them , just about does the hole shop floor
I'm talking for all the exterior walls.
 

ferniesnow

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Standard is usually 1/4" per foot (2%) and I would think with a nice finish and sealer it should run water relatively well.
Can go steeper (every 1/8" would be 1%) but I don't know at what point stuff starts rolling away from you lol
That's quite steep. That would be 10" on a 40' long building. Tool chests will definitely roll toward the low end. I've had a 3" slope over 28' and in the present garage there is a 2" slope over 20'. I would be inclined to not have it slope toward the doors as they will freeze to the floor. A trench drain would be my preference with both ends of the floor sloping away from the doors.

A good concrete dude could make a flat spot for work bench, tool chests, etc on one end of the building and drain it away from there. They could even give you a flat spot in the middle of a long wall (for the same purpose) and drain it away from it. You wouldn't get any water on either one if the concrete dude was good at what he does.
 

ferniesnow

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How big of a pad are they allowing you to have Geoff without footings down to the frost line? Some places only allow 20x30, etc. and the small slabs can be done with a thickening along the perimeter and that is much cheaper. Find out what they require for footings/frost wall for your 40x40 building.
 

Cyle

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I'm talking for all the exterior walls.

If he is on a budget and probably not wanting to shell out coin for in floor why the hell would he even consider ICF? It would be almost as bad as just burning money to use ICF for all exterior walls on a shop. If you want it really well insulated just go to 2x8. And for the gradebeam again ICF is a waste. Just glue the styrofoam on the wall after.
 

tex78

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How big of a pad are they allowing you to have Geoff without footings down to the frost line? Some places only allow 20x30, etc. and the small slabs can be done with a thickening along the perimeter and that is much cheaper. Find out what they require for footings/frost wall for your 40x40 building.
That I don't know

Was just a talk I had with the metal buildings guy
 

JayT

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Your plumber friend obviously doesn't understand how to set up a boiler correctly if the maintenance is a PITA. Radiant works exactly the same as infloor only inverse, the difference being operating cost and comfort. Yes the initial capital cost of infloor is higher but the operating cost is the lowest. I do a lot of boilers every year on that premise. I have some 10,000 sq ft homes that have lower utility bills than some 2500 sq ft homes. And considering that utilities go up an average of 7% per year, operating cost should be a bigger thought than it usually is.

I'm building a house soon with an attached shop, and I'm going in floor all the way. For the doors opening and closing that isn't much of a concern for me but if it were you could put in an air curtain or unit heater to offset that initial chill.



Glycol usually doesn't freeze, it jells up or may become slushy depending on percentage. We recently had a customer of ours slab freeze due to it being disconnected by the owner (whoops haha) and surprisingly it didn't break anything, only caused the pipe to swell a bit near the header. Glycol doesn't expand as much as water so thats what saved him. no leaks in the slab either.
From what I remember about our conversation I think he had mentioned that the boilers themselves are just unreliable. Especially compared to tube heaters. I'm not sure what Brand they install but they seem to have constant problems with them.
I have an NTI Combi boiler in my house and it's been running flawlessly for two and a half years now. Just the regular maintenance every year and that's it. Personally I wouldn't want my boiler to go out and suddenly I have no heat my shop and I don't know it cuz I'm not in there for three or four days when it's -40. Tube heaters are simple and reliable. Just my thoughts
 

Frosty19

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Yes I was saying for every 1/8" you add its 1% more, could've worded mine better.
And yes, I wouldnt say to slope a shop that size in one run or even slope the whole floor. You can slope it where you'll have snow/water to drain(s) or wherever you want to stop water, but a lot of it can be flat IMO
A smooth floor will run at 1/8", but I've seen people go to 3/16" if you're doing epoxy or textured coatings etc
 

greenthumb

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If he is on a budget and probably not wanting to shell out coin for in floor why the hell would he even consider ICF? It would be almost as bad as just burning money to use ICF for all exterior walls on a shop. If you want it really well insulated just go to 2x8. And for the gradebeam again ICF is a waste. Just glue the styrofoam on the wall after.
Not necessarily. Contractors proficient with icf's and that have the equipment can significantly reduce labour costs. Factor in inflated lumber prices, and the gap may not be as much as you think. People that have built in this area in the past year have gone this direction more that usual. I'm not saying it will be cheaper, just something to consider, especially if you like the other advantages to icf's.

A rough calculation on my planned 36'x48' @ 20' walls comes out to $25k for materials only.
 

pano-dude

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From what I remember about our conversation I think he had mentioned that the boilers themselves are just unreliable. Especially compared to tube heaters. I'm not sure what Brand they install but they seem to have constant problems with them.
I have an NTI Combi boiler in my house and it's been running flawlessly for two and a half years now. Just the regular maintenance every year and that's it. Personally I wouldn't want my boiler to go out and suddenly I have no heat my shop and I don't know it cuz I'm not in there for three or four days when it's -40. Tube heaters are simple and reliable. Just my thoughts
NTI are pretty reliable, I maintain a couple of them and an bunch of IBC boilers.
Boilers typically don't just quit, they fail from lack of service.
New igniter, flame sensor and a burner clean annually is all it takes.
Most of mine are for domestic hot water so they get lots of hours, the slab and parkade heat systems see way less operation. Have a few Teledyne Laars for pools and hot tubs, heat exchanger vacuum, burner clean and ignition parts.
There are some duds out there for boilers, Lochinvar for example.
A simple alarm 🚨 on the outside of the shop signalled by low temp or boiler fault would let you know if there is an issue.
 

S.W.A.T.

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Once you have infloor heat you would never consider anything else. Neighbor walked through my place this spring went to his contractor and changed his house plans to accommodate it. Says the best thing he ever did.

Buddy has it in his 60x40, nice and toasty with the thermostat at 12 to 15. Don't actually need it higher especially if your laying on the floor lots.
 

Tchetek

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What’s everyone running for slope? We’ve built a few shops now and I keep going steeper and steeper I hate water sitting in the floor. One contractor wouldn’t go as steep as I wanted said my toolboxes would be rolling around etc lol whatever
I learned the hard way on mine trusting my concrete guy. 🤦. On my dads we we made a point of good slope.

No puddles is harder than it looks. We did about 2 inches over 10-15 feet where it really counted in my dads.

I’ve slowly been fixing mine over 10 years with grinding and later filler in the courners to not have puddles. Fawking gong show.
 

summit889

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It's possibly going to be a shop I work out of

So thought of in floor , but the recovery time , compared to hot air blowing is off


Plus if you keep the shop pad warm , and don't let it get cold then it makes a big difference
I just built a shop. First one with in floor. Will never do anything else. Recovery time is fine once the slab is stabilized. We open 12x14’ doors many times a day and it never gets behind.
 
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