Building a garage-shop , need help

tex78

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I just built a shop. First one with in floor. Will never do anything else. Recovery time is fine once the slab is stabilized. We open 12x14’ doors many times a day and it never gets behind.
Ya I seen your post there
 

SUMMIT TREE

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I wouldn’t hesitate to do my shop in ICF after doing my own house. If you have a good local guy who is helpful and can supply everything is handy.
If you plan the shop foot print to use full blocks with no cutting you could easily set all blocks in a day or two once footings were done. It may seem intimidating but its super easy. You can even take DIY courses to help you out. Then when it came time to pour, We hired a guy who was knowledgeable in vibrating to make sure there was no hollow spots and knew what to do in a blow out situation. Sounds scary, not too bad if your prepared. Then Bam. In one step you have a standing shop. Outside is sheathed and water proofed wall is insulated and vapour barriers done, inside is ready for finishing tin or drywall or whatever. Slap on a roof blow in some insulation and shes ready for heat.
As a reference I was quoted 50G to have a guy do an ICF Basement including the finished floor. My house is 1700 ish square feet.
I did icf myself to the roof, bought everything from one supplier in Bonnyville, all supply’s concrete, pumper truck, rebar he even parked a big 40’van with all our supplies in it while we worked on it. My bill was 32K. I don’t really think this is a super accurate number as the guy didn’t keep very good notes and may have kind winged a few items Pretty sure it was in my favour though.

Anyway, building a rectangle out of ICF would be phuck all.
 

t300

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This thread could pass the sled deck on a halfton thread. Guys are passionate about their shop heat!!!

Hahaha. Shop and garage both have infloor heat, kept around 13c. Been opening doors in this Manitoba -30c all week. 5 mins later it’s fine. Would never build without floor heat. Thread derail continue!
 

Caper11

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Hahaha. Shop and garage both have infloor heat, kept around 13c. Been opening doors in this Manitoba -30c all week. 5 mins later it’s fine. Would never build without floor heat. Thread derail continue!

Not enough info, how long does the boiler run after the door is opened, does the boiler work off a wall thermostat or floor sensors? How the system is designed is important.
 

Pistonbroke

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Having been involved with all kinds of buildings in agriculture and farm shops throughout my years, I would rank my shop heat choices in this order:

1. Infloor heating. Nothing melts off snow packed vehicles faster - Puddles dry the fastest and comfortable if you need to be rolling around on the floor. Near silent operation.

2. Radiant tube heater - also a good puddle dryer when used with a littleAir circulation, and does work as a poor man’s heated slab. The radiant warms eveything that it “sees”, including your concrete. Very quiet when running, and simple install.

3. Forced air. Good air movement but cold slab. Boo. Loud.

4. Pellet stove - expensive fuel, always have to bring home pallets of pellets and reload them. PITA in my opinion

If I ever get to do it again - I’m going in floor no matter what it costs.
 
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lilduke

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Totally. I think tex should build the ultimate heated slab, then he wont even need to spend any $ on walls or a roof.

Just put up a pop up tent on the slab.
Still be on budget.
 

pistoncontracting

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Might be a little late to the party, but just went through nearly the same thing.

Due to permitting, went with the largest allowable rubber stamp.

32x32, 16' ceiling Intergrity built pole shed.
Single overhead door, two man doors.
Spray foam insulated.

An electrician did most of the wiring.

We will be around $85k.

Started the build past summer.


Only thing I would do different, is stay away from Integrity.
Fit and finish was very disappointing. Had to come back multiple times, and will be coming back again as the cheapest doors they could possibly install were clearly not installed properly.

Any questions, feel free 🙂

And good luck, your going to need it.
 

drew562

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Might be a little late to the party, but just went through nearly the same thing.

Due to permitting, went with the largest allowable rubber stamp.

32x32, 16' ceiling Intergrity built pole shed.
Single overhead door, two man doors.
Spray foam insulated.

An electrician did most of the wiring.

We will be around $85k.

Started the build past summer.


Only thing I would do different, is stay away from Integrity.
Fit and finish was very disappointing. Had to come back multiple times, and will be coming back again as the cheapest doors they could possibly install were clearly not installed properly.

Any questions, feel free 🙂

And good luck, your going to need it.
We have a radiant 30 foot heater in our shop. I can put eight frozen sleds in there. Thermostat set at 16°. One overhead fan running on low and by morning the floor is bone dry. Obviously in floor heating would be best. But radiant tube heaters are efficient and cheap. This last weekend was in the -30s and I can leave the door open for 10 minutes and the building would fully recover heat within 10 minutes of the door being closed. It heats all the objects in the room which helps keep the building warm Longer.
 

sethier

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30x30 attached garage with in floor heat and floor drain. With the in floor heat it seems a lot of the water evaporates before it drips from vehicles or reaches the drain. Humidity in garage skyrockets and all that moisture condensates on cold objects, mainly door handles, locks and most notably OH doors. Have had issues with condensation freezing OH doors down as the moisture hits the door and runs down to the floor where there isn’t enough heat or there’s a gap between the bottom of the door and the floor. A warm pad dries puddles quicker but that moisture is going somewhere.
 

Frosty19

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A good idea with any type of heat where you plan to have sitting water or melting snow is a humidity controlled fan ir two venting to the outside.
 

Caper11

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A good idea with any type of heat where you plan to have sitting water or melting snow is a humidity controlled fan ir two venting to the outside.

Yep, I have a big problem with condensation, I have to use a dehumidifier or my door and windows will just be dripping.
My heating guy said he also has the same issue he put forced air in his garage with his infloor.
 

sethier

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Yep, I have a big problem with condensation, I have to use a dehumidifier or my door and windows will just be dripping.
My heating guy said he also has the same issue he put forced air in his garage with his infloor.

Yeah that’s what I do as well. Exhaust fans work also but have had them freeze up after sitting awhile and condensation permeating into them, along with the intake. Maybe they were just a garbage setup but I’m searching for a more permanent solution than the little portable dehumidifier that I have now.
 

sledneck__11

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We got a 50x80 shop infloor heat didnt really even notice the gas bill go up much doors are always opened and closed they told us we needed to have a recovery heat source and we didnt agree and were happy we didnt waste of money in 10 mins shop is back to same temp plus with youe feet always warm we keep our shop at 15 otherwise its to hot boiler all the way, were looking at takin out the one wal to make it 50x150 and will be doing a larger boiler to handle hole shop our neighbours went radiant heat and they said biggest regret they had with there shop
 

Cdnfireman

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I’ve been doing a bunch of research into this as well as I’m looking at building a shop this coming year, so thanks to all for your real life experience in owning buildings with the different systems….from what I’ve found, the system that is the most cost effective and takes advantage of the best qualities would be a radiant tube heater with paddle fans to circulate the warmth and speed the evaporation of any meltwater that a floor drain system doesn’t carry away. I’m thinking that’s the way I’ll go with a wood burning forced air furnace to supplement.
Heating and insulation and Some kind of moisture control have to complement each other, and there‘s quite a bit of information out there about how conventional attic ventilation with vented soffits and roof venting might not be the way to go. There’s thoughts and theories that going to a “hot roof” system with mechanical dehumidification is a much better way to go in our climate.
Anybody out there done it this way or have experience with it? With heating costs going nowhere but up trying to gain the best efficiency is smart.
 

niner

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I’ve been doing a bunch of research into this as well as I’m looking at building a shop this coming year, so thanks to all for your real life experience in owning buildings with the different systems….from what I’ve found, the system that is the most cost effective and takes advantage of the best qualities would be a radiant tube heater with paddle fans to circulate the warmth and speed the evaporation of any meltwater that a floor drain system doesn’t carry away. I’m thinking that’s the way I’ll go with a wood burning forced air furnace to supplement.
Heating and insulation and Some kind of moisture control have to complement each other, and there‘s quite a bit of information out there about how conventional attic ventilation with vented soffits and roof venting might not be the way to go. There’s thoughts and theories that going to a “hot roof” system with mechanical dehumidification is a much better way to go in our climate.
Anybody out there done it this way or have experience with it? With heating costs going nowhere but up trying to gain the best efficiency is smart.
849AFC10-6A34-44E2-B10B-72DF6C30B49D.jpeg
AABD4936-8E6F-4981-8564-7061036A8427.jpeg

I think it’s important to properly vent your attic…
 

Frosty19

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.....Heating and insulation and Some kind of moisture control have to complement each other, and there‘s quite a bit of information out there about how conventional attic ventilation with vented soffits and roof venting might not be the way to go. There’s thoughts and theories that going to a “hot roof” system with mechanical dehumidification is a much better way to go in our climate.
Anybody out there done it this way or have experience with it? With heating costs going nowhere but up trying to gain the best efficiency is smart.
I haven't looked a lot into the hot roof system, but offsetting the cost of a vented raised heel truss with blown in attic insulation would take a lot of efficiency in the way hot roofs are constructed.
Lots of times it's layers and layers of rigid insulation or spray foam (which also loses benefits vs. cost after certain thickness) to gain a certain r value determined by your climate or the building energy code
Another option for that type of roof is SIP type systems which are also not cheap.
An R50 or R60 blown in attic should be pretty efficient and to upgrade blown in to better values isn't overly expensive the last time I checked into it.
 

tex78

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Might be a little late to the party, but just went through nearly the same thing.

Due to permitting, went with the largest allowable rubber stamp.

32x32, 16' ceiling Intergrity built pole shed.
Single overhead door, two man doors.
Spray foam insulated.

An electrician did most of the wiring.

We will be around $85k.

Started the build past summer.


Only thing I would do different, is stay away from Integrity.
Fit and finish was very disappointing. Had to come back multiple times, and will be coming back again as the cheapest doors they could possibly install were clearly not installed properly.

Any questions, feel free

And good luck, your going to need it.
And that's one of the company's I gota a quote from
 
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