Building a garage-shop , need help

[Toyboy]

My experience has been without any additional heat sources if you're working on anything say 15' up it's cold as hell with only in-floor. Or bring in something and try working up high right away, almost might as well try and do it outside because it's just as cold. But if someone was only working on sleds all the time they'd have a totally different opinion on in floor. It's true it wouldn't take much of a heater to cure that, but to put in a heater 1/4 the size vs just heat with a bigger one only isn't that much, and in a 3000 sq/ft shop you can be out $30k easy putting in floor, that's a lot of coin for the minor benefit. Now if you were just able to rig up in floor yourself with a water heater like people use to do then it's not going to be insanely priced and maybe it makes sense.

I'm guessing the temp was set for 5deg or it wasn't installed correctly. I've seen a few setups that don't work because they are operated in correctly. In floor must have continuous circulation to be effective zone valve don't work. And they aren't the best at 5 deg. But if your working in the shop constantly they work awesome at 15-20deg.

 

[Caper11]

I do not like my infloor heat in my garage. My house yes, but I did not design the system so it’s not how I would do it.

Depending on how the system is designed, imo floor temp sensors are a must over using a wall thermostat, and flow meters installed on every supply branch.

Negatives to having infloor heat without floor sensors.
Open the garage door at -20/-30 especially if you bring a cold vehicle or sled in and the recovery time is much higher without a second source of heat.
The condensation from a vehicle melting is a huge issue, especially if the vehicle is in and out lots during a day.
I have a dehumidifier I’m my garage, and it’s extremely important to have a property poured pad that actually drains to the floor drain.
If you spend a lot of time in work boots on a floor with infloor heat it actually gets uncomfortable to work in.

It’s a big expense, but imo infloor heat in a garage and shop should not be the main source of heat, the floor should be heated up enough to take the chill out of it, and the main source of heat should come from a forced air or radiant tube heater.

 

[Cyle]

I'm guessing the temp was set for 5deg or it wasn't installed correctly. I've seen a few setups that don't work because they are operated in correctly. In floor must have continuous circulation to be effective zone valve don't work. And they aren't the best at 5 deg. But if your working in the shop constantly they work awesome at 15-20deg.

Not sure, but I was getting to work in a buddies shop for basically nothing so I wasn't complaining but it was awful. I tried to bring a piece of equipment in probably -25 and door was hardly open and I had to leave to let it warm back up was too cold to work, and still had to wear a jacket for up high stuff as air was cold even the next day. I am assuming the temp was low, but really 15-20c the gas bill is going to be insanely pricey. I keep my shop at 10c it's perfect to work in a t-shirt, anything warmer is too hot.

 

[Toyboy]

Not sure, but I was getting to work in a buddies shop for basically nothing so I wasn't complaining but it was awful. I tried to bring a piece of equipment in probably -25 and door was hardly open and I had to leave to let it warm back up was too cold to work, and still had to wear a jacket for up high stuff as air was cold even the next day. I am assuming the temp was low, but really 15-20c the gas bill is going to be insanely pricey. I keep my shop at 10c it's perfect to work in a t-shirt, anything warmer is too hot.

I guess the height at which your working might change things. I'm usually crawling under not climbing on top. I keep the glycol return from the infloor set for 20deg. Shop is 12-20 deg depending on outside temp. I also have a gas unit heater if needed and ceiling fans. I find vehicles warm up way faster with infloor heat and my floor has 2" of slope to the drain so water and humidity aren't an issue. I did put in a small bathroom exhaust fan but that was for smoking reasons.

 

[Toyboy]

I guess the height at which your working might change things. I'm usually crawling under not climbing on top. I keep the glycol return from the infloor set for 20deg. Shop is 12-20 deg depending on outside temp. I also have a gas unit heater if needed and ceiling fans. I find vehicles warm up way faster with infloor heat and my floor has 2" of slope to the drain so water and humidity aren't an issue. I did put in a small bathroom exhaust fan but that was for smoking reasons.

The gas bill is determined by insulation under the slab and in the building. Underslab 2" minimum imho

 

[Frosty19]

Volume, temperature differential and air changes per hour will determine what type of heat will work better for the type of space. What works for one person won't work for another. Before shelling out money I would recommend researching the options.
When pricing something out it's probably more "this package includes the lowest initial cost heating option" and anything above that costs more initially but may cost less or work better in the long run.

With floor heat, invest more in underslab insulation, and with other heat you'll gain more with attic insulation. If you're on a budget it's a give and take

 

[pano-dude]

In-floor heating is for houses and people with "shops" who 90% never work in them but love telling everyone they have in-floor heat. No offence to anyone with it, it's just become this thing that people like to brag about with so many, compared to actually being a benefit. Visit ANY shop who works on chit everyday and virtually none have it and couldn't careless about it. Why? It's expensive as chit and you still need another heat source, only you can downsize it but the cost won't be much different. Yea if you want to go with both it will be awesome but the cost won't. Add in the fact that you better hope at -40 it doesn't crap out or the lines will break and now you're fawked. The floor drying faster? With a properly sloped floor and air movement it will dry in no time.

Theres this stuff called glycol.....
Also a phenomenon out there that heat rises...

 

[tex78]

Open a 18'x18' door at -30 for 5 minutes bringing stuff in/out and tell me how warm it is in there with in floor heat. Air will be ice cold for hours, not to mention better hope you got no water anywhere close to a door or it will freeze. If you want to spend a fortune it's a great addition to other heating, but as a stand alone heat source it's awful. How much does it heat 12' up on a mezzanine? Zero. How much does it heat if the piece of equipment you're working on is 15' in the air? Yea it's going to be ice cold up there.

There is a reason virtually no mechanic light or HD have heated floors.

Unless the don't have a hoist lol



And yes I agree , the recovery time is my concern

A auto shop door can open and close 30 times in a day

 

[Cyle]

Theres this stuff called glycol.....
Also a phenomenon out there that heat rises...

You do realize glycol freezes right? Almost had someone as bright as you who didn't know that and they nearly got a $50k bill because they let a heater run out of diesel over christmas and didn't think it would freeze at -40C.

 

[tex78]

Volume, temperature differential and air changes per hour will determine what type of heat will work better for the type of space. What works for one person won't work for another. Before shelling out money I would recommend researching the options.
When pricing something out it's probably more "this package includes the lowest initial cost heating option" and anything above that costs more initially but may cost less or work better in the long run.

With floor heat, invest more in underslab insulation, and with other heat you'll gain more with attic insulation. If you're on a budget it's a give and take

Good advice



Keep it coming guys lol




I do have a old wood boiler that used to heat the garage and house at one time


Haven't even opened the door on it and was going to take it out when it warms up

Guess I better look at it as I do have some wood to burn , and still have a bunch of trees I could cut down for a few years

Mabe go with that and a radiant overhead propane , as the cost of gas and wrecking some of the yard to ditch a line up to the shop, wife might be pissed about that lol

 

[ABMax24]

Nothing wrong with radiant tubes, poor mans infloor heat. Infrared from the tubes hits the concrete, warms the concrete, voila infloor heat.

Seriously though, every shop I've ever worked in was heated with radiant tubes, works good and relatively low cost.

I'd do a cost breakdown on propane vs natural gas though, I'm skeptical propane could be cheaper, and it pays carbon tax too. Natural gas will be a little cheaper on carbon tax for the same BTU's.

 

[niner]

Another added expense with doing floor heat is you have to get a concrete pump when you pour the floor or get a bunch of guys to run wheelbarrows. Need a 14’ door to get a concrete truck in. We had a customer do floor heat in his 400’ chicken barn and said he would never do it again. With the floor insulated the ground underneath the slab holds no heat. In between cycles that barn cools off the quickest. His other barns hold the heat in the buildings way longer. The heat only goes into the ground a certain depth and stays there as heat rises. You get the same thermal ground heat with a traditional overhead heater with fans pushing the heat down.

 

[lilduke]

Just get it all. In floor, forced air gas, wood pellets. When youre on a budget dont cheap out of heat in the okanogan. Dont want to have to wear a sweater now. Lmao

 

[JayT]

Theres this stuff called glycol.....
Also a phenomenon out there that heat rises...

Interesting fact, heat does not rise. Hot air rises. Heat radiates

 

[S.W.A.T.]

Wouldn't consider anything but infloor heat. EVERYTHING is warm so the recovery is quick and the heat doesn't need to be high, especially in a shop. Plus the system takes up minimal space. I would look into see what other options are available besides wood boiler, used oil maybe? Is coal still available? We have the outdoor boiler for the house and its big enough for the shop we plan to start next spring, probably 60x80. The boiler will heat it as well but also looking for a used oil system for backup.

 

[lilduke]

In floor is a Waste of money tex. Lol

Just get one of these, youll be hot as you ever want to be... turn it up to 30 and work in ur fkin underwear if you want

You Dont need to spend a bunch..

 

[pano-dude]

I know a plumber who does a lot of in floor heat installs and he says he would never put it in a shop. The cost is astronomical and the maintenance on the boiler is a pain in the ass. He said radiant tube heaters all the way. I plan on d

You do realize glycol freezes right? Almost had someone as bright as you who didn't know that and they nearly got a $50k bill because they let a heater run out of diesel over christmas and didn't think it would freeze at -40C.

That's why you test your glycol strength, it's called seasonal maintenance.

 

[ferniesnow]

So going back to the hoist. What is the problem with a hoist and in-floor heat? You don't need a sump with a hoist these days and technically, it is not a problem putting the 4 legs on a properly designed floor with in-floor heat.

 

[lilduke]

Id be more worried about air conditioning. Youre going to spend most the time sweating your bag off in there im thinking.

 

[Beer Slayer]

So going back to the hoist. What is the problem with a hoist and in-floor heat? You don't need a sump with a hoist these days and technically, it is not a problem putting the 4 legs on a properly designed floor with in-floor heat.

My brother has in-floor heating and hoists in his shop at work, loves it!
Just need to know where the plumbing is for anchoring the hoist.

We have the similar version of the HEAT STAR heater in my shop and brothers garage, great heat...really noisy fan.

The shop at work has tube radiant heaters (3, in 10,000 sq ft), also works mint! BUT, ceiling height is important.
With sixteen foot ceilings you have to be careful where you put 13'-6" 5th wheel trailers so they don't melt awnings/roofs/AC units etc.