bought a turbo I'm clueless m1000

[568charlie]

Hey guys I just bought a 08 m1000 with a boondocker race gas turbo running 10-12 lbs boost has a afr gauge boondocker controller ebc push to pass get gauges the hole 9 yards well been riding my hole life thought I was a bad @$$ until now haha well here's my Q&A this is my first turbo sled what fuel should I be using what should my egts afr be running at I don't wanna pop a motor lol I'm using Shaffer oil and vp110 but vp 110 is 11.50 a gal here so is there a better fuel mix to run ? Thanks for any of your guys wisdom you want to share with me

 

[moto5151]

You have a few options, and if you do a little digging you can find alot of helpful tips. I'm not familiar with the boondocker controller, however I've had and still ride a turbo sled. First things first, fuel is the most important. You can run straight race fuel for your setup. You can also run straight av gas (cheaper) which is what I used to do on my last turbo. Or you can turn boost down, and mix 50/50 av/premium. I currently mix and run 7psi with my boost-it setup. But it's intercooled. Your afr readings are very important to know, and will help you tune for every situation. Generally speaking, afr readings will be around 14-15 at idle. 14-16 at slow cruise speeds. And 11.9-12.3 at wot.
It's not so important to have it tuned to to the decimal while cruising. But it is at full throttle (wot). A few decimals will be the difference between it being lean and slobbering rich. The lower lower the afr value = more fuel (rich). Higher the value = lean fuel
When first setting my turbo fuel settings I always made it fat with fuel. First tunning idle, then cruise, then wot. Remember that it can take a few seconds for the afr to accurately read and may jump around a bit. I find a common thing new turbo guys do is adjust fuel settings when something doesn't feel right. Once these things are set, very little adjustment is needed. It's usually something else causing you grief. So have a good look before adjusting. And remember to have all the numbers written down with you, so you can always go back. I hope this all helps. And if anyone finds I'm inaccurate, please feel free to chime in. I'm no expert. Enjoy

 

[174mcx]

I've never had a cat, although I have some turbo time.... Keep in mind that leaded fuel which most race fuel is will coat the a/f sensor in lead and not let it read properly, change them out if they seem to be sticking around a certain number no matter what you do. Consider how much riding you do in a year to decide on fuel, if your going to burn 500L you save a minimal amount in the long run to use anything but straight race when you consider the hotel room and meals to ride that 500L worth of fuel.

 

[568charlie]

My sled is intercooled as well I'm at 17.6 afr at idle and 12. Something wot egt 850 degree F has garbage throttle response from idle till about 3psi of boost to

 

[568charlie]

So av 100ll is safe at 10psi at 10k altitude?

 

[moto5151]

Yes av is safe at that altitude. Here's the tricky thing with afr readings, sometimes a rich situation can give you a lean reading on the gauge at idle. I think its the way the unburnt fuel is messing with the sensor. Anyway, try adding fuel at the rpm that your clutching engages, see if it becomes a little more responsive. Remember to add and subtract fuel in small quantities. If it worsens, lean it out a bit. I'm thinking it's over fueling at initial throttle. Keep in mind, no turbo will be perfect if your going from a dead stop to full throttle.

 

[568charlie]

Ok sweet that answers a ton of questions for me

 

[new24stroke]

My m1000 has always read way lean at idle.

 

[Merc63]

Stoichiometric for pump gas is 14.7:1. At 17.6:1 you are way way lean.

Leaded race fuel will kill an O2 sensor I about 10hours of use.

Do you have knock detection? You will lose boost as you climb in elevation some.

When you say the throttle response is garbage, what does the afr tell you? You are most likely too rich or lean causing it to run ****ty. Watch your rpm and throttle position when it doesn't run good to see if you need more or less fuel, maybe setup a go pro to record the gauges, then check after a pull.

You should probably do some reading on how efi systems function.

 

[freeflorider]

The m1000 does not have a knock sensor so be careful you can kill it. I ran 10-12 lbs on my twisted r/g kit straight avy 100ll and had know problems at 6000ft+. 12.7 a/f is max. At idle or short burps up the trail your a/f will be all over the place 15-17-12 whatever...I would only be concerned at wot and making boost on a hill. You need a load on the sled before you'll see any solid numbers to go off of. leaded fuel will screw your a/f sensor after time but never had many problems with avy gas, just pack a spare and your covered off. They stick on lean or higher numbers I found so your running lean or the sensor is pooched.
Keep in mind a turbos don't make boost till there a load...aka spooling up. keep the a/f numbers in check and add or subtract fuel as needed at altittude.

 

[HPCrazy]

Which 02 sensor is failing, the one for the ecu or for the a/f gauge? I have been running AV/94 10lbs for two years on the same sensors with no issues. Just want to know what sensor to have a spare.

 

[Modman]

The M1000 has a lean spot in the stock fuel map at about 5800 RPM, don't hang out there with the RPM too long. Your AFR readings should be 14 idle, 12 mid range, 11ish WOT. I wouldn't go too high on the AFR's (or too high on the EGTs either), the bigger pistons in the large displacement motors like the M1000 need lots of fuel to keep those big domes cool, you can't run it too lean for too long or you risk a hot spot and pre-ignition.... then it goes BOOM. Leaded gas will plug the sensor, as others have said, rely on your plugs and piston wash to guide you. You can't be at 12 AFR and EGTs of 850, that's what EGTs read at like a 1/4 throttle. Something isn't reading correct, they should be 1200 at WOT.

If you are having problems with the sled being laggy with poor throttle response down low, you need to turn down the boost and learn to ride it. You can't ride a turbo like a regular sled, the more boost you have, the longer it takes to spool up. If you are used to a stock sled, it will take some time to get used to the lag in the throttle by comparison, especially if its a race gas kit with no intercooler pushing around 11 lbs.