Need to be schooled on turbos

[kingcat162]

I’ve never used ether on this sled lol, i feel I misstyped something?

Ahhh ok - that's good - glad it was a typo

 

[gdhillon]

It's getting rid of the ethanol that can predetonate/knock .
If you are 94 e free then going to 91 e free would be a step backwards.

ah I see, My bad I should have clarified it was 94 non e in my OP.

So running straight AV should also keep me safe from detonating?

 

[kingcat162]

I used to run 100% av gas also - till I tried this

 

[gdhillon]

What is that? 114?

 

[kingcat162]

What is that? 114?

Race fuel concentrate you add to the Chevron

 

[gdhillon]

Never heard of it, better then straight av?

i like the lubricating idea

 

[gdhillon]

Suppose I could take a look at the reeds, how big of a pain is it to get to them with a turbo?

Should I go boyesen rage cage since it’s modded/turbo’d ?

 

[kingcat162]

Suppose I could take a look at the reeds, how big of a pain is it to get to them with a turbo?

Should I go boyesen rage cage since it’s modded/turbo’d ?

I had to lose the stock cages on my xm - they couldn't handle the boost - can be a chore to take the airbox out on a boosted machine for sure - but once that's out it's not bad

 

[kingcat162]

The straight av for me on my sled gave me horrendous bottom end - now Chevron with shellbourne and it's a thousand times better on the bottom

 

[gdhillon]

Yea mines a dog up the trail as well, usually detonated at anything above 6200rpm

Went out yesterday, at 6k ft: afr 12.5, 5# 8350 rpm. My mech says he wants to say 8-8100...I did some googling, looks like the 800 happy place is 8250. Unfortunately I’m not sure what exactly is in it for weights as they are dalton adjustable that came with the used turbo kit. It does have the venom orange prim spring 165/310 iirc and a kurts helix. I’m not too worried about changing stuff with clutches at this point because they both have over 3k miles, I’ll be rebuilding them over summer and then I’ll have a decent baseline for next season

Is 8350 k okay to rev at? With spring/hero in riding I don’t really feel the need to run more then 5#

edit: can straight avy be run without any extra oil in the fuel tank(my Oiler is turned up and I have the vented brp oil cap on it)

 

[ABMax24]

Yea mines a dog up the trail as well, usually detonated at anything above 6200rpm

Went out yesterday, at 6k ft: afr 12.5, 5# 8350 rpm. My mech says he wants to say 8-8100...I did some googling, looks like the 800 happy place is 8250. Unfortunately I’m not sure what exactly is in it for weights as they are dalton adjustable that came with the used turbo kit. It does have the venom orange prim spring 165/310 iirc and a kurts helix. I’m not too worried about changing stuff with clutches at this point because they both have over 3k miles, I’ll be rebuilding them over summer and then I’ll have a decent baseline for next season

Is 8350 k okay to rev at? With spring/hero in riding I don’t really feel the need to run more then 5#

edit: can straight avy be run without any extra oil in the fuel tank(my Oiler is turned up and I have the vented brp oil cap on it)

How does that silber kit work to add extra fuel? I believe it injects extra fuel into the throttle bodies which then washes the oil out from the bottom end, I lost a crank that way. In my case I now run the oil pump maxed out and add like 80:1 mix to the fuel. Between my oil pump and extra oil in the tank I'm running around 33:1 overall. I'd rather foul a plug from oil than seize the crank and top end again.

 

[gdhillon]

New problem.
My mech determined the turbo oil pump failed, so in eagerness to ride I purchased a facet 12v fuel pump from PA. He worked his magic and got it to work however it was quite the task;
We bench tested the pump it worked fine at 12v, however the sled only puts out 9.8 iirc at an idle so the pump didn’t do anything until the idle was brought up a bit, when the pump starts working and idle is brought up I get ‘675’ I believe it is...DC voltage issue.
So I ran it anyway for a bit today and kept checking my turbo oil reservoir to make sure fluid was moving. That part was good however I still get the CEL and battery light flashing... now my idle randomly will ‘have up at 2k’ from time to time. My mech gave me some options on what he can do, 1) I purchase the oil pump meant for this application (he said they are fairly pricey)
2) he routs the sleds internal oil pump to circulate the turbo oil and then I’d have to mix gas/oil....this is my least favourite b/c I’m not a huge fan on always having to mix
3) add e start and run the facet of that battery


Ive thrown more money then I want at this sled already, what would you guys do in my situation?


A separate issue is I am in need of a 40-60 #fuel pressure regulator...the one I currently has is leaning the sled out at around 6k before boost and causing it to detonate or fall on its face sorta deal

....have I mentioned how much I love past me for deciding to turbo my sled :/ lol

 

[lilduke]

I'd sell the POS and get a stock sled and then enjoy riding it.

 

[Lund]

i'd sell the pos and get a stock sled and then enjoy riding it.

exactly

 

[gdhillon]

I'd sell the POS and get a stock sled and then enjoy riding it.

Cant sell a pos to someone in good faith, that’s bad juju

 

[lilduke]

Cant sell a pos to someone in good faith, that’s bad juju

all you have to do is tell the truth about it and price accordingly......

 

[kingcat162]

New problem.
My mech determined the turbo oil pump failed, so in eagerness to ride I purchased a facet 12v fuel pump from PA. He worked his magic and got it to work however it was quite the task;
We bench tested the pump it worked fine at 12v, however the sled only puts out 9.8 iirc at an idle so the pump didn’t do anything until the idle was brought up a bit, when the pump starts working and idle is brought up I get ‘675’ I believe it is...DC voltage issue.
So I ran it anyway for a bit today and kept checking my turbo oil reservoir to make sure fluid was moving. That part was good however I still get the CEL and battery light flashing... now my idle randomly will ‘have up at 2k’ from time to time. My mech gave me some options on what he can do, 1) I purchase the oil pump meant for this application (he said they are fairly pricey)
2) he routs the sleds internal oil pump to circulate the turbo oil and then I’d have to mix gas/oil....this is my least favourite b/c I’m not a huge fan on always having to mix
3) add e start and run the facet of that battery


Ive thrown more money then I want at this sled already, what would you guys do in my situation?


A separate issue is I am in need of a 40-60 #fuel pressure regulator...the one I currently has is leaning the sled out at around 6k before boost and causing it to detonate or fall on its face sorta deal

....have I mentioned how much I love past me for deciding to turbo my sled :/ lol

This is the fuel pump I have on my kit pumping oil - works great - I think the key to any turbo oiling system is an open loop system - not a dead headed system - also running a good oil in the reservoir - like the oil I posted a pic of above - at idle even with a low voltage it will still pump a bit - as long as the centre cartridge is full of oil it will be fine - crank on the throttle and voltage will go up and so will the pump - everything will be good - also changing the oil in the reservoir every 500kms or so is key

 

[gdhillon]

all you have to do is tell the truth about it and price accordingly......

Sooo you mean pay someone to take my sled lol. I’m not selling it man, i don’t give up that easy. Just looking for opinions preferably on the three options listed

Appreciate your input though

 

[ABMax24]

New problem.
My mech determined the turbo oil pump failed, so in eagerness to ride I purchased a facet 12v fuel pump from PA. He worked his magic and got it to work however it was quite the task;
We bench tested the pump it worked fine at 12v, however the sled only puts out 9.8 iirc at an idle so the pump didn’t do anything until the idle was brought up a bit, when the pump starts working and idle is brought up I get ‘675’ I believe it is...DC voltage issue.
So I ran it anyway for a bit today and kept checking my turbo oil reservoir to make sure fluid was moving. That part was good however I still get the CEL and battery light flashing... now my idle randomly will ‘have up at 2k’ from time to time. My mech gave me some options on what he can do, 1) I purchase the oil pump meant for this application (he said they are fairly pricey)
2) he routs the sleds internal oil pump to circulate the turbo oil and then I’d have to mix gas/oil....this is my least favourite b/c I’m not a huge fan on always having to mix
3) add e start and run the facet of that battery


Ive thrown more money then I want at this sled already, what would you guys do in my situation?


A separate issue is I am in need of a 40-60 #fuel pressure regulator...the one I currently has is leaning the sled out at around 6k before boost and causing it to detonate or fall on its face sorta deal

....have I mentioned how much I love past me for deciding to turbo my sled :/ lol

First off you had better find the right electric oil pump and put it on. If the oil pump is pulling that much power that it is pulling the voltage down enough to throw codes you are likely to fry something. Adding electric start likely won't solve this, if the pump pulls that much power the sled probably won't keep the battery charged. I'm still a believer that you might have other electrical gremlins as well though.

Second, I really question how your mechanic will lubricate the turbo with the stock oil pump that requires you to mix fuel. The turbo kits that do this (MTNTK) run the oil through the turbo and back to the engine so the oil still does the same thing it just takes a longer path. You cannot delete the oil pump or oil systems on these engines, there is no way to get oil into the bottom end from mixing fuel (except through your auxiliary injectors from the turbo). IMO mixing fuel on these turbos is a must anyway, it helps add extra lube to the top end and adds a little extra to the bottom end while on boost with the auxiliary injectors firing.

Third, you probably want to get a rising rate fuel pressure regulator for your sled. What it does is add fuel pressure at a 1:1 ratio with increasing boost pressure. Whats happening now is as you get to boost your effective fuel pressure decreases, if you make 40 psi of fuel pressure at 8 psi boost you effectively only have 32 psi of fuel pressure. You need a rising rate regulator to get you 48 psi on boost to get you back to 40 psi effective pressure.

It's possibly going to be a long road ahead to get this running right, piecing a kit together is difficult and expensive when you have to pay someone to fix it for you.

 

[gdhillon]

This is the fuel pump I have on my kit pumping oil - works great - I think the key to any turbo oiling system is an open loop system - not a dead headed system - also running a good oil in the reservoir - like the oil I posted a pic of above - at idle even with a low voltage it will still pump a bit - as long as the centre cartridge is full of oil it will be fine - crank on the throttle and voltage will go up and so will the pump - everything will be good - also changing the oil in the reservoir every 500kms or so is key

There was a facet one at pa that looked like yours I decided to go with the larger one, but same deal I suppose.
Can you give me a run through of your wiring setup?