Blown Engine on 04 Summit 800

[maxwell]

ya its hard to say really you dont want to overheat it but so you cant hold your hand on it for more than a few seconds i would say..

 

[~Rowdy~]

And wtf is a heat exchanger...laugh if you want...but keep in mind I just started sledding last year... lol

So cycke it 3 times in the shop. To tell if it's hot I...

 

[kimrick]

Warm it up. Hand on the exchanger... Let it cool, burp it..

Give it a short ride, recheck coolant>

As Maxwell said. Ride it but just stay cool on the throttle.

I do not mean do not give er! But do not do any long pulls.....

 

[imdoo'n]

Hey, lookin' good. I'll give u my 0.02 as well

Heat cycling....A must !!! at least 3 times. Run untill operating to high temp, shut down until completely cool.

100:1 min in first tank, mineral or synthetic....the argument is effin rhetorical now days.....no synthetic on break in is about 20 yr old oil technology....BS !! RUN WHAT YOU WANT TO RUN

Drive it the way you are going to drive it on break in.....just don't hold it to the bar for an extended period for the first tank.............after that to the bar '''till you reach the top.

And again for the longevity of your bottom end plaese heat cycle it 3 times

Ultimately, you'll do what you want, all I can offer is my expierience, I hauilt many many motors for myself and friend in everything from rods to toys, and this is what consistently works for me.

Good luck with start up........your doin' great

how does the 3 cycle heating affect the bottom end, i'm asking to understand, running the motor to check for leaks is good, and you can use any oil you like, but from what i've read and seen rings do not seal with synthetic oil. the moto man article backs up his opinions with race track results.

 

[heavy d]

My sled is polaris....................easy....hahaha..........but serious ly, start it let it run until you know its operating temp, I touch the heat exchanger under the rear of the sleds tailight to see that its warm if it is...shut it off , let it completely cool like others have said, "good time for checking for leaks and such, maybe even re- torqing your clutch (this should be done 3 times as well):d

 

[heavy d]

imdooin' run outta beer and on the wiskey tonight

 

[polarice]

how does the 3 cycle heating affect the bottom end, i'm asking to understand, running the motor to check for leaks is good, and you can use any oil you like, but from what i've read and seen rings do not seal with synthetic oil. the moto man article backs up his opinions with race track results.

yeah i really dont see the positive reward of doing such

 

[heavy d]

you gotta torque wrench Rowdy ? If not I can bring one in tommorow , gotta be in the city tommorow evenin

 

[imdoo'n]

imdooin' run outta beer and on the wiskey tonight

no just asking a serious question, other than checking for leaks and fluid levels, how does 3 cycleing your motor make the bottom end last longer? if that is just something you do that is ok just asking.

 

[imdoo'n]

rowdy you can break in your motor anyway you'd like, read the motoman article, i ask you why are some motors more powerful than others. ask a few racers out there what they do. to me heat cycling a motor maybe 190 deg F does dick all, has no effect on metal in any way, to check nut torque, leaks and fluids yes, otherwise i see no reason.

 

[kimrick]

rowdy you can break in your motor anyway you'd like, read the motoman article, i ask you why are some motors more powerful than others. ask a few racers out there what they do. to me heat cycling a motor maybe 190 deg F does dick all, has no effect on metal in any way, to check nut torque, leaks and fluids yes, otherwise i see no reason.

Amazing!

Turbo prop engines,,,, vehicles,,,,, we do not run them in?

Absolutely we do with heat temp sensors and tell tale strips.

Most important to see if hot spots or poor factory parts are installed. Better to stop early and replace things rather than blow the heck out of everthing and start over.....

Imdooin has a big billfold obviosly!!!

Just kiddin Imdooinn. Bogger made me dooo it!

 

[maxwell]

head bolt torque - 21 ft/lbs retorque after first ride. very important.

thats about the only torque you need to know thanks to a shortblock already being done

 

[heavy d]

no just asking a serious question, other than checking for leaks and fluid levels, how does 3 cycleing your motor make the bottom end last longer? if that is just something you do that is ok just asking.

The reason for this simply is the fact that the different metals in the engine heat up at different rates. The idea (which I believe to be a solid one) is to bring an engine to temp, shut it down, and let the heat "soak" into the crank, cyl walls, head etc. You would be amazed how much of a temp diff there is on the crank, comared to a cyliner wall, or ring to cyl wall after a short warm up period.
The heat soak process lets everything come to the same temp during the cooling and helps better "seat" the rings. I also believe that the heat/cooling helps run in the crank and all associated bearings.

Do what you like, don't matter to me. But out of curiosity, if nothing else google it up, and see what you find. I'm actually suprised ski-doo wouldn't have that as a condition of warrenty

 

[imdoo'n]

Amazing!

Turbo prop engines,,,, vehicles,,,,, we do not run them in?

Absolutely we do with heat temp sensors and tell tale strips.

Most important to see if hot spots or poor factory parts are installed. Better to stop early and replace things rather than blow the heck out of everthing and start over.....

Imdooin has a big billfold obviosly!!!

Just kiddin Imdooinn. Bogger made me dooo it!

i agree with you to check and make sure everything is tight, fluids are full, and everything is working properly.

 

[imdoo'n]

The reason for this simply is the fact that the different metals in the engine heat up at different rates. The idea (which I believe to be a solid one) is to bring an engine to temp, shut it down, and let the heat "soak" into the crank, cyl walls, head etc. You would be amazed how much of a temp diff there is on the crank, comared to a cyliner wall, or ring to cyl wall after a short warm up period.
The heat soak process lets everything come to the same temp during the cooling and helps better "seat" the rings. I also believe that the heat/cooling helps run in the crank and all associated bearings.

Do what you like, don't matter to me. But out of curiosity, if nothing else google it up, and see what you find. I'm actually suprised ski-doo wouldn't have that as a condition of warrenty

yes i agree that metals heat up at different rates and there is a lot of different aluminum and steels in a motor. pistons will definitely become one with a cylinder wall if not warmed up.

 

[fatguy1]

And wtf is a heat exchanger...laugh if you want...but keep in mind I just started sledding last year... lol

So cycke it 3 times in the shop. To tell if it's hot I...

Ok, Ok, the heat exchanger is part of the tunnel located at the rear of your sled. look under the snow flap in the top of the tunnel you will see a bunch of little fins all running lengthways towards the front of the sled.

You don't have to put your hand under the flap to feel it, simply put your hand on top of it where you would strap on your spare gas or a tunnel bag. you will feel it when it starts to pass coolant.

This is to be done in the shop before she hits the snow. I just let it idle and then blip the throttle every once and while nothing past 4000 rpm. Put your hand on the heat exchanger every 60 seconds and as soon as the themostat opens you will feel the heat difference.

 

[Bill Daley]

I'm not going to get into arguements here as I don't really know much about snow machines but heat cycling is important.We used to race go-carts and when the motors were built even those we used to start and let them heat up 3 or 4 times before running on a track.We also used to put oil in the first tank of gas at a 50/1 ratio.

 

[POWDERSLUT]

basically ride for 10 mins then hit the kill switch,let it cool down...repeat a few times

 

[heavy d]

You know what ? Truth be told, heat cycling/soaking, is often confused with heat "treating". Now days, these parts are made and technology has let the manufacturers "heat treat" the parts to tempuratures far exceeding any normal running condition. So I can understand that some may say that it is not neccisary these days, because of the quality control of parts, and the technology used to manufacture them.
In my opinion, a crank still grows when it heats up at a different rate than the bearings/races, piston/rings, and maybe it is an old way of thinking but for the time it takes to "releive" these parts, and have them "run in" properly, is well worth it to my piece of mind...........and in my opinion, it don't hurt the bank account any.
So I guess what I'm sayin' is maybe I'm wrong, and you don't need to do a 3 time heat soak........but I guarentee that I will do it to every engine I own

 

[imdoo'n]

if you read the article the 3 heat cycle is used to dyno break in a motor, due to extreme heat in dyno pulls. everyone has a method, not much reasoning for methods, but you decide. i'm telling you what i have been doing and have also given reasons why. vary the throttle, make sure it is warm before riding, have fun. opinions are like azz h---, most are full off shheeet and have no factual basis.