Bent xm boards

schiermnultra

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what to do when you bend a board on an xm? can you buy the outer edge rail as a part or hackem off completely and put something aftermarket on?
 

adamg

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bust, do the aftermarket boards replace the factory tube/pipes that go over the footwell and support the front outer edge of the factory board?
 

teeroy

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put air frames on and call it a day. they are unreal.
agreed. best purchase I've made for my XP. I've banana'd the boards on every sled I've ever owned, I weigh 200 without gear. you'll break your ankles before you bend airframes
 

neilsleder

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I built my own air frame style for my xp, m1000,m7, and a buddies 2012 proclimb and I am having a hard time not building them for my xm. The xm boards work good but not like the air frame ones.
 

adamg

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I have this post saved in my archives, might be of interest to you guys in market for aftermarket boards.
SnoWest Snowmobile Forum - View Single Post - xm runing board meets a stump

And if anyone has any tips on what to do about a bent muffler-side footwell pipe / board support I'd appreciate it. Looks like it is available as the RH Stirrup. Not quite sure what the "Dart" piece shown on the breakdown is, some kind of fastener?
 
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Newmanater90

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I bought the TSS boards. I checked them out at the edmonton sled show and compared them from the skinz and found them much better quality and stiffer but at $100 more
 

shoppingcart111

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Custom modified B&M boards

qsjlt1.jpg
 

Newmanater90

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Well i finally got my TSS boards back from powder coaters and installed but a little disappointed. I bought them from the Edmonton sled show and they were wrapped up and i dropped them off at Cyclone powder coaters to be painted. I got home and started cutting the old boards off installed one then went to do the other side and noticed the second boards was 3 1/2" longer then the first!!!! Talk about bad luck. What would you guys do in this situation. I needed to ride so i installed the wrong board anyway but do you think i should call TSS and b*tch? Or are they going to say its my fault cause i never took them out of the wrapper to check them out before i sent them to get powder coated?
 

Nitrobkr

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I wouldn't call them and b*tch. I would call them and explain the situation. It's an honest mistake on both sides. I am sure they will send you the right one and maybe you can make a compromise on each paying half the powder coating, or something like that. ?.


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Sleeper700

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I have this post saved in my archives, might be of interest to you guys in market for aftermarket boards.
SnoWest Snowmobile Forum - View Single Post - xm runing board meets a stump

And if anyone has any tips on what to do about a bent muffler-side footwell pipe / board support I'd appreciate it. Looks like it is available as the RH Stirrup. Not quite sure what the "Dart" piece shown on the breakdown is, some kind of fastener?

I just installed a new RH Stirrup on my 08 on Saturday. The tab that is welded to the tube at the top of the stirrup broke, so it wasn't connected to the tunnel anymore. I had to drill out the rivets on the old one that hold the rubber strap and the muffler spring holder (I think this is what they were referring to as the "Dart"). I got some Stavex and some pop rivets (all 3/16"), and that was all I needed. Drilling out a couple of the rivets was tricky, but I got it done.
 

adamg

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Thanks. I bought an air riveter last weekend to replace my damaged front bellypan and front bumper, so the 3/16 rivets don't bother me any more. BTW tip I had from a buddy was to use a chisel and hammer to shear/cut off the head on rivets, it works better than drilling them, especially if rivets are in a piece you are disposing of.

The big question to me about the RH stirrup change is, do I have to drop the drive shaft and skid? Looks like it to get at the rivets at the top of the stirrup.
 

Sleeper700

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I didn't. There is a rivet and a bolt on the top of the tunnel. Drilling the rivet was tricky, but the bolt dropping out was when I swore. I taped the bolt to a coat hanger and was able to fish it up through the hole again. When I tightened the nut, the bolt/washer bit hard enough to stay. Otherwise an allen key would have been tricky to get up there.

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