bent my sled...just not sure where

[John Cambell]

I've bent my sub frame before. Bought new A arms and they were forever just slightly not lined up on both sides. Maybe it's the frame?

 

[driller]

so is it worth having the g&r braces in or not

 

[Caper11]

actually i was able to buy just the cast aluminum part rather than the whole module ($230 instead of $400), i was just out in the shop and slid the new cast part up in there and things dont line up as good as they should so it looks like a whole new module is the next step. thanks

Cool, that's good to know. so is it easier to replace the cast piece? Wondering about getting at the rivets while the s-module mounted.




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[BRP QSC]

It will most likely be the S module. Replace the module. Pull the G&R bracket and look at the aluminum between the lower control arm bolts (front to back) and you will see that it is in a S shape near the rear where the fingers spread out to the bolts that go into the E module tip the sled on its side to see this clearly. Its not hard to change Ya they should be straight.

Rich

 

[milton]

Sled for sale? Just curious

 

[Dooitorbust]

can i ask what makes you think that the s and the e modules are bent as well?

actually i was able to buy just the cast aluminum part rather than the whole module ($230 instead of $400), i was just out in the shop and slid the new cast part up in there and things dont line up as good as they should so it looks like a whole new module is the next step. thanks

If hit hard enough to take a tumble over the bars, there is a good chance those forces were transferred thru the E-mod as well. This is where the G&R brace debate starts. Some guys swear they save modules and bend A-arms, others say they transfer forces to the E-mod. It's really up to you

You're probably better to replace the whole thing. It might not look like its tweaked but there's a good chance it is. It's a little intimidating at first but it's not so bad. When you remove it, if you remove it, drill all appropriate rivets but use a sharp chisel and hammer on the upper structure. They'll break right off.
Drill out all your holes to 1/4" and use grande 8 bolts, washers and stover nuts. Cover everything with red loc-tite (get the sticks), bolt it up solid and never look back.

As long as the E-mod is straight you'll be good to go.

 

[Long_Track]

Measured this on my T3. If you aren't sure where I measured from on the plastic trim let me know and I'll try to find a picture to illustrate. Mine is not in a good place to take pictures right now.

 

[duck]

S-module is bent, one ski is further ahead than the other, buddy of mine just got his fixed last week after hitting a stump hidden under the snow, $2100 at Martin.

 

[BeachSled]

S-module is bent, one ski is further ahead than the other, buddy of mine just got his fixed last week after hitting a stump hidden under the snow, $2100 at Martin.

Tell me that price was for parts and labor?

 

[duck]

Tell me that price was for parts and labor?

yup, thats what he told me

 

[bingo1010]

after thinking about it i would say yes i will still use them, the cast piece broke and the s module bent, but i was still able to comfortably ride the thing that day and the next... realistically i could have left it till summer if i wanted. so i do believe it does add durablity to the frame. i guess i will know more tomorrow also after i get the new s module in there and see if it is bent further back. so it may cost me a little more to repair if the e module is bent($385) but for me the more important fact is that i didn't have a sled with one ski missing way back in some bowl.

so is it worth having the g&r braces in or not

 

[Dooitorbust]

S-module is bent, one ski is further ahead than the other, buddy of mine just got his fixed last week after hitting a stump hidden under the snow, $2100 at Martin.

Holy fawk...

 

[bingo1010]

it was no problem to pull the cast part off, prolly about 1/2 -3/4 hr. definetly easy to do

Cool, that's good to know. so is it easier to replace the cast piece? Wondering about getting at the rivets while the s-module mounted.




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[NeilV]

anybody ever try to pull theirs back straight instead of replacing it? tempted to hook on to mine with the come-along and see if it wont go back. just dont want to bend an a arm trying.

 

[brew_doo]

anybody ever try to pull theirs back straight instead of replacing it? tempted to hook on to mine with the come-along and see if it wont go back. just dont want to bend an a arm trying.

I may have tweaked an XP closer to straight with a tow rope and a pick up truck....

 

[Limbo]

anybody ever try to pull theirs back straight instead of replacing it? tempted to hook on to mine with the come-along and see if it wont go back. just dont want to bend an a arm trying.

If you straighten a bent piece it will never have the strength of a new piece

 

[captain extreme]

This is fairly common with alot of XM/XP's I have replaced around 6 S-Modules. Everyone has been pretty much the same thing, you can't notice the damage or what is bent untill the machine has been torn down. I don't do any fancy measuring back and forth, I just run a finger between the front of the shock and the top A-Arm, your finger shouldnt be able to slide past (depending size of fingers I Guess). If you can that side is likely bent. You have to ensure shocks are set the same and fully extented. This is always the first thing I tell people when buying a XP/XM, take a look at that, alot of the time its hard to notice untill you check that. found it works the best for quick check.

Know a couple people that have bought used sled using my theoury and they got the cost +labour off of the asking price, then came to my place and we changed out the S Mod and good as new for 400$

Mike