Anyone ever bought a sled in a crate? (ie: no $600 dealer PDI)

[sledhead5000]

Just curious if this is possible to do, or if anyone has done it before?

I've always had a problem with the extra/often hidden charge for PDI/set up fees, for anything, not just sleds.

Near as I can tell, it's pretty darn simple to do myself... and seeing as I normally strip the sled back down right after getting it to install more parts, it seems rather unnecessary. Only thing that jumps out at me as new/tricky would be bleeding the oil system...

A quick web search yielded two examples of what's involved with PDI (from Hardcoresledder forum):
1) Uncrate, unstrap, unbolt spindles and skis from crate. Set skis, cardboard tube, and handlebar pad to the side. Remove battery and fill with acid, get charging.
2) Grease spindle and steering area. Check front end bolts for tightness.
3) At this I put it on our fork lift so I can lift it to where the shocks are at eye level. Install shocks (come in the cardboard tube along with hardware). Washer and bolt on top and use neverseize (or similar) on bottom bolt.
4) Now install skis (they are marked on top which side they go on this year or at the end of the part # there is either an L for left or R for right). Use never sieze for bushing and bolt.
5)Pull of the center belly pan so as to check oil pump adjustment. Adjust as needed.
6) Now spring the rear suspension and grease it all good. The lower grease fitting on the rear arm is normally lose. 7mm deep socket on 1/4" drive tightens this up. Go through and check all bolts for tightness. Tighten track, I do until the top of the inner lugs are even with the bottom of the hyfax at the rubber bump stop. This normally is just about perfect. Leave rear axle slightly lose just in case you need to adjust it.
7) Let the sled down and fill oil tank up. Check chaincase fluid. Pop off the oil pump control rod from the throttle body lever (BE VERY CAREFUL, rod ends can break easily). After you do this pump will go to full open.
8) Raise sled back up and using 10mm wrench remove oil pump bleed screw and let a little oil run through then reinstall screw (very tight spot, leave screw just about to start in) Reinstall belly pan now
9) Lower sled, install belt, windshield, and mirrors. Adjust and tighten the handlebars, and then install hadlebar pad and wrap.
10) Mix 6 gallons of gas 50:1 and fill the tank. (Top off with straight gas after completely finished with setup)
11) Install battery and hook it up. Check coolant.
12) FIRE IT UP!!!! Let it run giving it gas on and off. I normally run it till the running boards get good heat into them.
13) Now reconnect the oil pump rod, check to make sure oil went down. Check coolant. Just give a good check over for anything. Check track alignment and adjust accordingly.
14) Clean her up and take picture for us

AND:
1 adjust handlebar tilt/pad 15 check drive belt
2 service the battery(if needed) 16 check ski adjustment
3 Install windshield 17 check chain case lubricant
4 install front shock absorbers 18 check /adjust headlight aim
5 install skis 19 check gas oil coolant hoses
6 check cooling system coolant levels for proper routing
7 check brake system 20 check electrical switches/lights
8 bleed oil-injection 21 check/adjust track tension
9 check engine oil level(4 strock) 22 check for fluid leaks
10 check vent hose 23 check decals
11 check carburetor, throttle and choke cable 24 test ride
12 tighten throttle cable swivel adapter jam nuts 25 clean polish
13 check oil injection cable jam nut 26 explain manual
14 check and adjust clutch offset 27 explain warranty
28 complete owner registration
29 complete dealer comment card
This is what AC expects every deal to do on every sled. The booklet explains every step so even the poorest dealer can do it.

 

[powder junkie]

Just curious if this is possible to do, or if anyone has done it before?

I've always had a problem with the extra/often hidden charge for PDI/set up fees, for anything, not just sleds.

Near as I can tell, it's pretty darn simple to do myself... and seeing as I normally strip the sled back down right after getting it to install more parts, it seems rather unnecessary. Only thing that jumps out at me as new/tricky would be bleeding the oil system...

A quick web search yielded two examples of what's involved with PDI (from Hardcoresledder forum):
1) Uncrate, unstrap, unbolt spindles and skis from crate. Set skis, cardboard tube, and handlebar pad to the side. Remove battery and fill with acid, get charging.
2) Grease spindle and steering area. Check front end bolts for tightness.
3) At this I put it on our fork lift so I can lift it to where the shocks are at eye level. Install shocks (come in the cardboard tube along with hardware). Washer and bolt on top and use neverseize (or similar) on bottom bolt.
4) Now install skis (they are marked on top which side they go on this year or at the end of the part # there is either an L for left or R for right). Use never sieze for bushing and bolt.
5)Pull of the center belly pan so as to check oil pump adjustment. Adjust as needed.
6) Now spring the rear suspension and grease it all good. The lower grease fitting on the rear arm is normally lose. 7mm deep socket on 1/4" drive tightens this up. Go through and check all bolts for tightness. Tighten track, I do until the top of the inner lugs are even with the bottom of the hyfax at the rubber bump stop. This normally is just about perfect. Leave rear axle slightly lose just in case you need to adjust it.
7) Let the sled down and fill oil tank up. Check chaincase fluid. Pop off the oil pump control rod from the throttle body lever (BE VERY CAREFUL, rod ends can break easily). After you do this pump will go to full open.
8) Raise sled back up and using 10mm wrench remove oil pump bleed screw and let a little oil run through then reinstall screw (very tight spot, leave screw just about to start in) Reinstall belly pan now
9) Lower sled, install belt, windshield, and mirrors. Adjust and tighten the handlebars, and then install hadlebar pad and wrap.
10) Mix 6 gallons of gas 50:1 and fill the tank. (Top off with straight gas after completely finished with setup)
11) Install battery and hook it up. Check coolant.
12) FIRE IT UP!!!! Let it run giving it gas on and off. I normally run it till the running boards get good heat into them.
13) Now reconnect the oil pump rod, check to make sure oil went down. Check coolant. Just give a good check over for anything. Check track alignment and adjust accordingly.
14) Clean her up and take picture for us

AND:
1 adjust handlebar tilt/pad 15 check drive belt
2 service the battery(if needed) 16 check ski adjustment
3 Install windshield 17 check chain case lubricant
4 install front shock absorbers 18 check /adjust headlight aim
5 install skis 19 check gas oil coolant hoses
6 check cooling system coolant levels for proper routing
7 check brake system 20 check electrical switches/lights
8 bleed oil-injection 21 check/adjust track tension
9 check engine oil level(4 strock) 22 check for fluid leaks
10 check vent hose 23 check decals
11 check carburetor, throttle and choke cable 24 test ride
12 tighten throttle cable swivel adapter jam nuts 25 clean polish
13 check oil injection cable jam nut 26 explain manual
14 check and adjust clutch offset 27 explain warranty
28 complete owner registration
29 complete dealer comment card
This is what AC expects every deal to do on every sled. The booklet explains every step so even the poorest dealer can do it.

ive asked my dealer b4 and he said take it home however u want but still gotta pay pdi

 

[Trukker]

I don't think a dealer will sell you a sled with out P.D.I . They would say it probably would void warranty and or liability . It's just usually an apprentice that rips the crate apart and throws it together .

 

[camsledhead]

Most dealers will say they have to build the unit because if something is wrong or broken it would come down to your word or the dealers....

 

[Summitric]

same as trying to purchase a vehicle or rv.... no way a dealer will sell without doing a pdi, to be certain everything is installed and adjusted properly and that nothing was broken during shipping or packaging. Legal reasons .......

 

[norona]

Yeah go down to the local volkswagon dealership and ask if you can pick up your new jetta in the crate from the ship, he will laugh and call the looney bin! We are a funny group, us sledders!

 

[Stickman70]

I understand the legal reasons for the dealer to do the PDI.
I just wish they would get someone other than the wash bay kid to do them.

 

[snopro]

Gonna have to program keys for the Doo's. Gonna need BUDS for that. All dealers are required by there dealer agreement to build and PDI the sled themselves for liability coverage. Anyone not following this is setting themselves down a slippery slope if something goes wrong. Our store has a PDI guy that only does this job. Our shop foreman will then check his work before it is cleaned and ready for delivery. Most responsible PDI people get it right all the time just from sheer repetition.

 

[Dutchman]

Don't know all the details any more, but many moons ago I bought 2 new in the crate. It was some end of season deal so they just wanted them gone. No special circumstances, still had warranty.

Here's a thread on Snowest, where the guy purchased one. Maybe he could give you more specifics.

New 14 Pro RMK still in the crate! - SnoWest Snowmobile Forum

 

[femme.fatale.]

We do not sell snowmobiles (or any unit) to customers without the PDI being done
Several reasons for this:
It will void your warranty. We could, in theory, sell you a crated snowmobile, but then you'd have ZERO warranty. Concealed crate damage does happen - if we discover it, we can claim warranty. If you discover it, you don't have warranty.

PDIs aren't really as simple as they sound just to touch on a few that you mentioned:
- unit needs to be uncrated
- any parts not on the unit in crate must be installed (windshields etc)
Our tech basically does a complete first service:
- check throttle free play/idle
- set ski alignment
- set track tension and alignment
- bleed oil pump (2 strokes)
- heat soak the pistons
- set belt deflection and offset
- grease the chassis
- verify operation of everything

These things would be difficult to do without the proper tools.

Our head tech does all our PDIs.

We (like most dealers) only charge $200 PDI - sounds like you must have freight and PDI combined to get the $600 total.

Having said that, anything is possible!

 

[T-team]

A dealer would have to be TOTALLY brain dead to do that.... I don't care WHO is getting it... And how good of a mechinic they are... THAT is just plain stupid. Someone did it last year I remember. There are SO many reasons why this is a terrible idea...

1. There are almost ALWAYS new software updates/programs/reflashes...... Customer wouldnt get those.
2.Without the proper laptops and programs (buds etc.etc.).... that would just be a total nightmare
3.Techs set up sometimes hundres or these sleds a year... they KNOW what to look for and the little issues to sort out
4.Customers do NOT have acsess to any of the proper material/updates that manufacturers send during the start of the season
5.If a customer sets up thier own sled... and the track comes off and kills the rider... or someone else..... You can pretty well say goodbye to that dealership.
6.I cant think of a single customer I have... or anybody on this website for that matter.... That could put a sled together with such precision and ease..... As a tech for ANY brand that sits and does it ALL DAY.... EVERY DAY. I dont care if you a jhonny super mechanic... wont happen. even the most gifted weekend warriors still come in and ask questions once in a while.
7. Why would you want to do that?? Personal satisfaction? Get it home and go over it with a fine tooth comb if you please.
8. If you don't trust the place to the point you want to build your own product.... Why would you buy there in the first place.

 

[T-team]

Just curious if this is possible to do, or if anyone has done it before?

I've always had a problem with the extra/often hidden charge for PDI/set up fees, for anything, not just sleds.

Near as I can tell, it's pretty darn simple to do myself... and seeing as I normally strip the sled back down right after getting it to install more parts, it seems rather unnecessary. Only thing that jumps out at me as new/tricky would be bleeding the oil system...

A quick web search yielded two examples of what's involved with PDI (from Hardcoresledder forum):
1) Uncrate, unstrap, unbolt spindles and skis from crate. Set skis, cardboard tube, and handlebar pad to the side. Remove battery and fill with acid, get charging.
2) Grease spindle and steering area. Check front end bolts for tightness.
3) At this I put it on our fork lift so I can lift it to where the shocks are at eye level. Install shocks (come in the cardboard tube along with hardware). Washer and bolt on top and use neverseize (or similar) on bottom bolt.
4) Now install skis (they are marked on top which side they go on this year or at the end of the part # there is either an L for left or R for right). Use never sieze for bushing and bolt.
5)Pull of the center belly pan so as to check oil pump adjustment. Adjust as needed.
6) Now spring the rear suspension and grease it all good. The lower grease fitting on the rear arm is normally lose. 7mm deep socket on 1/4" drive tightens this up. Go through and check all bolts for tightness. Tighten track, I do until the top of the inner lugs are even with the bottom of the hyfax at the rubber bump stop. This normally is just about perfect. Leave rear axle slightly lose just in case you need to adjust it.
7) Let the sled down and fill oil tank up. Check chaincase fluid. Pop off the oil pump control rod from the throttle body lever (BE VERY CAREFUL, rod ends can break easily). After you do this pump will go to full open.
8) Raise sled back up and using 10mm wrench remove oil pump bleed screw and let a little oil run through then reinstall screw (very tight spot, leave screw just about to start in) Reinstall belly pan now
9) Lower sled, install belt, windshield, and mirrors. Adjust and tighten the handlebars, and then install hadlebar pad and wrap.
10) Mix 6 gallons of gas 50:1 and fill the tank. (Top off with straight gas after completely finished with setup)
11) Install battery and hook it up. Check coolant.
12) FIRE IT UP!!!! Let it run giving it gas on and off. I normally run it till the running boards get good heat into them.
13) Now reconnect the oil pump rod, check to make sure oil went down. Check coolant. Just give a good check over for anything. Check track alignment and adjust accordingly.
14) Clean her up and take picture for us

AND:
1 adjust handlebar tilt/pad 15 check drive belt
2 service the battery(if needed) 16 check ski adjustment
3 Install windshield 17 check chain case lubricant
4 install front shock absorbers 18 check /adjust headlight aim
5 install skis 19 check gas oil coolant hoses
6 check cooling system coolant levels for proper routing
7 check brake system 20 check electrical switches/lights
8 bleed oil-injection 21 check/adjust track tension
9 check engine oil level(4 strock) 22 check for fluid leaks
10 check vent hose 23 check decals
11 check carburetor, throttle and choke cable 24 test ride
12 tighten throttle cable swivel adapter jam nuts 25 clean polish
13 check oil injection cable jam nut 26 explain manual
14 check and adjust clutch offset 27 explain warranty
28 complete owner registration
29 complete dealer comment card
This is what AC expects every deal to do on every sled. The booklet explains every step so even the poorest dealer can do it.

In short... I would say no. Unless you really wanted to put your own sled together for personal reasons (which still would never happen)... It would make no sense nor would it be feasble. The dealer would have to break open the crate to get at the programming aspect of it anyways... Other wise you would build it... And take it back and ask really nice for one of the techs to come work for free for a little bit... There lays your PDI charge.

 

[X-Treme]

A dealer would have to be TOTALLY brain dead to do that.... I don't care WHO is getting it... And how good of a mechinic they are... THAT is just plain stupid. Someone did it last year I remember. There are SO many reasons why this is a terrible idea...

1. There are almost ALWAYS new software updates/programs/reflashes...... Customer wouldnt get those.
2.Without the proper laptops and programs (buds etc.etc.).... that would just be a total nightmare
3.Techs set up sometimes hundres or these sleds a year... they KNOW what to look for and the little issues to sort out
4.Customers do NOT have acsess to any of the proper material/updates that manufacturers send during the start of the season
5.If a customer sets up thier own sled... and the track comes off and kills the rider... or someone else..... You can pretty well say goodbye to that dealership.
6.I cant think of a single customer I have... or anybody on this website for that matter.... That could put a sled together with such precision and ease..... As a tech for ANY brand that sits and does it ALL DAY.... EVERY DAY. I dont care if you a jhonny super mechanic... wont happen. even the most gifted weekend warriors still come in and ask questions once in a while.
7. Why would you want to do that?? Personal satisfaction? Get it home and go over it with a fine tooth comb if you please.
8. If you don't trust the place to the point you want to build your own product.... Why would you buy there in the first place.

Better be careful with THAT part of your statement. Don't forget some of the people that are on this site.

 

[snopro]

What about Maxwell?

 

[T-team]

Better be careful with THAT part of your statement. Don't forget some of the people that are on this site.

Yea well... If there is a weekend warrior around that can assemble a sled better than someone that does a hundred in a month he should be on Americas got talent. Not snow and mud. I'm not saying there isn't knowledgable people... In some cases more knowledgable... But at the end of the day.... If you do something over and over and over and over... You are going to be much better at it than someone who stabs at it once In a while when they want to service theirs. If PDI'ing a sled involved backing over it with a trailer I would get maxwell to do mine every year... Unfortunately there is a lot more to it.

 

[polarice]

we bought a brand new sno jet in 1974 that was still in the crate.... bought it from a dealer in Winnipeg that was closing ..... I think if memory serves we only had to put the skis on and some final adjustments

 

[T-team]

we bought a brand new sno jet in 1974 that was still in the crate.... bought it from a dealer in Winnipeg that was closing ..... I think if memory serves we only had to put the skis on and some final adjustments

Do NOT take offence to this... But I personally feel that the speeds achecivalbe to the current sleds are greater than said "1974 Sno Jet" bringing the risk of bodily harm up.

 

[polarice]

Do NOT take offence to this... But I personally feel that the speeds achecivalbe to the current sleds are greater than said "1974 Sno Jet" bringing the risk of bodily harm up.

lol when your eight you were happy it ran and you could go for 5 hours our moto ski we had at the time could beat the sno jet if we took the hood off

 

[Dutchman]

good point on the computer stuff. With todays electronics, that's one thing you don't get in the home garage

 

[0neoldfart]

As a licensed journeyman mechanic with a Red Seal, I would have no issues putting a sled (or quad) together out of a crate... but why would I want to? The cost associated for a proper PDI is minimal, and there are several dealers who don't have the "wash bay kid" assemble your new sled - I know my Cats are ready to go when they come from Bonnyville. My time is valuable to me, and paying someone's wages to inspect my new toy helps keep the dealership's doors open - a "win win" for both parties. Adding mods or suspension / clutching work? No problem for me, I have a shop manual for everything I own, and I usually do any "tweaks" in the off season - gives me something to do during break up, and keeps me from driving my wife nuts.
Not trying to stand on a soap box, but a good dealer will do a good PDI - so choose a good dealer and let the professionals do the work, you can always take it apart later if you choose to.