Anyone an rv tech on here !?

S.W.A.T.

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What's up? I'm sure all the TV people here someone must be able to at least help you wreck it more
 

09 arctic cat m8

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Well here’s my story, got a 5th wheel and my water pump crapped out in July so I installed a new one but this one says recommend slow blow fuse on it but I just wired it like my old one was, an it works, so than I added in a powered jack motor to the landing gear it also works good, but ever since this my 30amp fuse on my positive side battery line keeps blowing when I’m hooked to my generator when I’m not it don’t matter lights on and water pump it pops it and I’m getting sick of it!?? Any ideas
 

S.W.A.T.

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Well here’s my story, got a 5th wheel and my water pump crapped out in July so I installed a new one but this one says recommend slow blow fuse on it but I just wired it like my old one was, an it works, so than I added in a powered jack motor to the landing gear it also works good, but ever since this my 30amp fuse on my positive side battery line keeps blowing when I’m hooked to my generator when I’m not it don’t matter lights on and water pump it pops it and I’m getting sick of it!?? Any ideas

Double check all connections for loose wires or bad contacts.
 

ferniesnow

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I'm not an RV tech. I have had a big learning curve in the last 3 years and just about every trip there is another chapter written in my book of experiences. There is a great tech at Snowy Peaks RV out of Fernie/Hosmer by the name of Steve Hill who helps me out immensely.

I definitely feel your pain. Good luck.
 

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Well here’s my story, got a 5th wheel and my water pump crapped out in July so I installed a new one but this one says recommend slow blow fuse on it but I just wired it like my old one was, an it works, so than I added in a powered jack motor to the landing gear it also works good, but ever since this my 30amp fuse on my positive side battery line keeps blowing when I’m hooked to my generator when I’m not it don’t matter lights on and water pump it pops it and I’m getting sick of it!?? Any ideas
I've seen power jacks draw too many amps because of a poor ground back to the battery (low voltage under load will cause higher amps). I used a booster cable from the jack body right to the battery negative to test. The 12v body ground on many RVs is not solid enough for the new 30 amp load and needs to be fixed or cleaned.
 

Caper11

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Well here’s my story, got a 5th wheel and my water pump crapped out in July so I installed a new one but this one says recommend slow blow fuse on it but I just wired it like my old one was, an it works, so than I added in a powered jack motor to the landing gear it also works good, but ever since this my 30amp fuse on my positive side battery line keeps blowing when I’m hooked to my generator when I’m not it don’t matter lights on and water pump it pops it and I’m getting sick of it!?? Any ideas

Im not quite understanding, but your 30 amp blows on your battery supply to the trailer the moment you start your generator??? Or when you use your power jack while hooked up to the generator?

Have you tried working backwards and disconnecting the powerjack, than try the generator. Unhook the waterpump than try the generator??.
Does the fuse blow when hooked up to shorepower, or is it only when using the generator.

How old is the trailer??? Will the converter supply 12v power to the trailer with the batteries disconnected?
 

Tchetek

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Agree. Don’t really understand when it’s blowing. Kinda a long sentence there. ....

Dc amp meter would make trouble shooting a lot easier.
 

kimrick

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Im not quite understanding, but your 30 amp blows on your battery supply to the trailer the moment you start your generator??? Or when you use your power jack while hooked up to the generator?

Have you tried working backwards and disconnecting the powerjack, than try the generator. Unhook the waterpump than try the generator??.
Does the fuse blow when hooked up to shorepower, or is it only when using the generator.

How old is the trailer??? Will the converter supply 12v power to the trailer with the batteries disconnected?


I too would like to give assistance but need some of the answers also. Confused.

Lets start with this;

Does pump and lights work off battery only? No gen or Shore power (hooked to house plug in.)
 

09 arctic cat m8

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Sooo.... I’ve owned this trailer for 5years its always had a small glass inline fuse, never had problems with it,on shore power battery power or generator until July when my water crapped out, so now I put in the same brand of of pump but it’s a bit bigger and says it’s recommended I have a slow blow fuse, never did that wired it the same as my old pump, as it worked, so I never used the trailer till then, and I installed a jack motor for my front landing gear, wired it separately, so took it out August long and nothing works fuse is blown so I install another one worked for alittle had the generator running off and on, fuse blown again, so I wired in a chip fuse with holder lastbight while winterize it pump running than I got done everything went black except for one light on the exterior of my trailer, chip fuse blown so I’m at ya head scratching stand still guys
 

LBZ

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Well here’s my story, got a 5th wheel and my water pump crapped out in July so I installed a new one but this one says recommend slow blow fuse on it but I just wired it like my old one was, an it works, so than I added in a powered jack motor to the landing gear it also works good, but ever since this my 30amp fuse on my positive side battery line keeps blowing when I’m hooked to my generator when I’m not it don’t matter lights on and water pump it pops it and I’m getting sick of it!?? Any ideas

By the sounds of things you’ve added electrical load to a trailer that’s exceeding what it was designed to handle.

But for starters I would clean all your cable ends and check them over good. Tighten all connectors all the way back to your main fuse box as these can come loose. Had a ground in my fuse box dick me around in my old trailer.

Barring that I suggest going out and getting a slow blow fuse as suggested by the pump people and put in place of the existing 30amp.

Reason it doesn’t matter if your plugged in or on generator is because that’s the a/c volt side. Everything from the battery to pretty much everything in your trailer including your water pump and probably most of your lights if not all is DC volts.
 
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Tchetek

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Sooo.... I’ve owned this trailer for 5years its always had a small glass inline fuse, never had problems with it,on shore power battery power or generator until July when my water crapped out, so now I put in the same brand of of pump but it’s a bit bigger and says it’s recommended I have a slow blow fuse, never did that wired it the same as my old pump, as it worked, so I never used the trailer till then, and I installed a jack motor for my front landing gear, wired it separately, so took it out August long and nothing works fuse is blown so I install another one worked for alittle had the generator running off and on, fuse blown again, so I wired in a chip fuse with holder lastbight while winterize it pump running than I got done everything went black except for one light on the exterior of my trailer, chip fuse blown so I’m at ya head scratching stand still guys

So you used the pump for the whole winterization, Then the fuse blew later?


Did you use the jack?
 

Caper11

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Humm interesting, you mentioned the power jack is wired separate, im assuming you wired it direct to the battery and it has its own fuse. If so that can be eliminated.

The water pump now has me curious, did you try the old pump on a 12v battery to see if it still worked? From your last explanation, you mentioned even tho you blew the fuse, and 1 exterior light still worked. Im leaning towards that everything you did is not related to your original problem, if your actually blowing the main 30amp you shouldn’t have any power at all, that 30amp will blow when the batterys are hooked up backwards.
In your opinion is this problem getting worse, (faster).
Do you happen to know what type of converter is in the trailer? Im thinking its possible that there is a issue with the converter/power distribution system.

Do you have a multimeter to check for amp draw?
 

kimrick

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So you installed 2 new components.
Isolate (disconnect) both and try running all other things (EG: fridge, lights, furnace) If no issues hook up 1 at a time to see which one is causing you grief.
Just because it is new does not mean it is electrically sound.

You can also disconnect your battery and run your pump and jacks without the battery connected as the converter will supply the power.
If that works you can then install a different battery to prove the battery is damaged. (dead cell, shorted internally) A battery load checker works well if you have one.
If everything works with battery disconnected - bad battery
If you still have problems with battery disconnected - Bad or damaged converter or shorted wires somewhere.

Let us know what happens when you try above suggestions.
 
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Caper11

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So you installed 2 new components.
Isolate (disconnect) both and try running all other things (EG: fridge, lights, furnace) If no issues hook up 1 at a time to see which one is causing you grief.
Just because it is new does not mean it is electrically sound.

You can also disconnect your battery and run your pump and jacks without the battery connected as the converter will supply the power.
If that works you can then install a different battery to prove the battery is damaged. (dead cell, shorted internally) A battery load checker works well if you have one.
If everything works with battery disconnected - bad battery
If you still have problems with battery disconnected - Bad or damaged converter or shorted wires somewhere.

Let us know what happens when you try above suggestions.

Not all converters will supply power with the batteries disconnected. Thats why I asked about the style of converter, but it does sound like is a non progressive charge converter since its using a glass tube fuse.
 
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