freeflorider
Active VIP Member
Could you install a traditional block heater? If time isn’t a big deal a small gen set plug it in and wait an hour. Not sure what kinda cold your dealing with.
The traditional block heater port is right beside the lower hose for the circulatory one. Threads into the oil cooler. Which is still almost impossible to get to due to the ROPS support and hydrostatic tank.Could you install a traditional block heater? If time isn’t a big deal a small gen set plug it in and wait an hour. Not sure what kinda cold you’re dealing with.
Uncle wieners is where I got mine. That’s what this one is, is a diesel air heater. I mounted the EGR cooler off my duramax to act as a coolant heater. The version I got has the 4 smaller outputs that I’ll be routing the hot air to be blowing on the hydrostatic pumps since they both turn when the engine is spinning It’s direct coupled. The other two will go to the engine block/into the cabin. The controller has a timer which is why I was hoping to get it working so I can get it to turn on at like 3am and run for 4 hours before I go fire it up. Instead of just wasting fuel. Even though it doesn’t even burn 1l an hour.Crazy alternative idea. Since I was just seeing these on Vevor website at like $150, cheap like borche.
Use a cheap chinese diesel fired heater just blowing warm air into the engine bay with a tarp over it.
Like not built in , just set there for overnight kinda thing. You set it up at night, and it just runs till morning. May even be able to set it on a timer somehow maybe? Not sure.
That sounds like a decent idea, but I’m afraid no water pump on my unit, and both of the lines for heater core are at the same level so I don’t think it would be very productive. Just convection will be causing the circulation. I was going to install 2 T’s into the heater core line so that the water pump will still have a direct line for the coolant to go through to the heater core so hopefully it just bypasses the EGR cooler. But then when the diesel heaters going it will still want to pull the coolant from the line before. I guess having a Y would be better.What I have had to do when I worked up north and a customer ( in the middle of January) needed a wabasto installed I would t into the heater lines and put 2 ball valves in the lines one on the heater core line after the wabasto t so it would only circulate through the block and one ball valve on the wabasto output line so that when the machine is running it will not circulate the coolant just through the wabasto and not the heater,,,, I was quick and it worked and I didnt have to freeze my hands off for long periods of time,,, Had to do this on a lot of equipment that people didn't think they would need.... LOL
If anyone finds this thread looking to put a coolant heater on their 3306, after trying to make the circulatory heater on the heater core lines in both directions, the heater core won’t let the coolant go through. Im assuming the heater valve only gets water through under pressure. There was no reason for it not to go through.View attachment 275494Heres a decent pic of a heater install. Most should have these same ports. Probably 1/2” NPT. So in these pics I assume they put a 1/2 to 1” swedge to use larger hose.
I highly recommend the EGR cooler route. You can usually find them cheap if not for free, and they’re very reliable. The exhaust on a diesel heater doesn’t get to the same temperatures as the EGT’s on my truck that’s for sure. 1,300 degrees vs 750 degrees. You can use convection to circulate the coolant up to a radiator or even heat transfer plates on the floor. The only issue with that would be circulating if you went with transfer plates. My only through the on the long exhaust pipes is that it definitely gets hot enough to melt your sled gear, I have my EGR cooler directly below my heater with only 8-10” of exposed exhaust pipe. The EGR cooler body itself (other than the flanges) doesn’t get hot enough to melt your hand let alone your gear.Nice ! Good to see you gotter beat.
I always thought that it seemed wasteful to pump hot exhaust outside, so I was going to try to make some sort of heat capture method before the exhaust exited the trailer. Either run it thru a length of corrugated exhaust flex inside another tube with a fan blowing air over it, or something like that to capture as much heat as possible.
I didn’t want to take any power from the two batteries in series. I didn’t want one battery to drain and get undercharged or the other overcharged. I just bought the batteries two weeks ago.Good Job!!!
The only thing you might have trouble with is your fuel line might suck air after a while from the top side if your one way valve isn't working perfectly,,,, I've had it happen
YaI didn’t want to take any power from the two batteries in series. I didn’t want one battery to drain and get undercharged or the other overcharged. I just bought the batteries two weeks ago.
I ended up buying a deep cycle battery to replace that aux battery I put on.
I will say that the timer system on that diesel air heater is garbage. You set it for how many hour timer you want it to kick on. So I set it for 10 hours, and I show up to the machine the next morning and the heater wasn’t on. The timer still showed 1 hour 57 minutes left on it. And it was over 12 hours after I set the timer. Cheap Chinese junk doesn’t like the -20 weather. The clock kept time though which is frustrating.
It gave me an E-10 code which is “a combination of errors”Ya
That will tick you off
Check to see if it is getting diesel, because the way it is set up it might get some air, most times you have to run a line right to the diesel tank ,, also check the battery if its low the unit will shut down
You could also pop one of these on
Amazon product ASIN B0875PJ7FK
It gave me an E-10 code which is “a combination of errors”
Then it gave me an E-04, which was a fuel pump issue. The fuel pump was stuck so I beat on it with a wrench and then it started ticking.
Low voltage code came up once when I manually started it. So that’s what drove me to put on the deep cycle battery.
someone had mentioned using a solar charge controller. But I wasn’t sure if it could handle the 28v the alternator puts out.
BEST thing I have read all week!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! LOLThe fuel pump was stuck so I beat on it with a wrench and then it started ticking.