Anybody else ever had a clutch shoot off the crank?

[Zar]

I would have but on Arctic Cats the puller threads are larger than the clutch bolt threads into the crank stub (you don't thread the clutch retainer bolt through the clutch threads and then into the crank stub like a ski doo - the AC clutch retainer bolt just slides right through the puller thread area in the clutch and then threads into the crank stub). You would have to use the puller to force the water out of the clutch taper instead. This was going to be the next option if it didn't come off when it did.

Snowtech magazine had a tip a few years ago - to use ordinary bearing grease and partially fill the stub hole and then turn in the puller bolt. Same idea as the water trick and the tape but your don't have to tilt the machine or use teflon tape. I never tried it but it makes sense. ( this is a good thread and posts )

 

[Modman]

Snowtech magazine had a tip a few years ago - to use ordinary bearing grease and partially fill the stub hole and then turn in the puller bolt. Same idea as the water trick and the tape but your don't have to tilt the machine or use teflon tape. I never tried it but it makes sense. ( this is a good thread and posts )

Yeah but grease gets all messy and then you have to worry about torque on the bolt because a greased bolt will need less torque than an ungreased bolt (wet vs dry torque specs). If you put lube on your head bolts and then torque them to a dry torque spec (instead of a wet torque spec) you will strip the threads out of the cylinder casting. Might not strip out a crank stub as easy but it could happen to the bolt also. Also you risk torquing it on good and tight and then not getting it off if the grease dries out.

Water is good because the compressibility of water is very low. At almost 6,000 PSI, water will only compress 1.8%, which is nothing. Water is nice and easy to clean up also. Water actually compresses less than most fluids but it cannot be run in hydraulic systems since it would cause the metals parts to rust.

 

[Zar]

Yeah but grease gets all messy and then you have to worry about torque on the bolt because a greased bolt will need less torque than an ungreased bolt (wet vs dry torque specs). If you put lube on your head bolts and then torque them to a dry torque spec (instead of a wet torque spec) you will strip the threads out of the cylinder casting. Might not strip out a crank stub as easy but it could happen to the bolt also. Also you risk torquing it on good and tight and then not getting it off if the grease dries out.

Water is good because the compressibility of water is very low. At almost 6,000 PSI, water will only compress 1.8%, which is nothing. Water is nice and easy to clean up also. Water actually compresses less than most fluids but it cannot be run in hydraulic systems since it would cause the metals parts to rust.

True- I would only use the grease to remove the clutch. Once the clutch is removed then remove the grease (i.e brake cleaner etc). Bolt torque translates into bolt tension and bolt tension is what matters. A lubed bolt means that less torque is lost due to thread friction and less galling of threads. I agree - I would remove the grease for assembly and that is more work to clean up than water but you don't have to tilt the machine and tape the threads.

Cheers