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Clean clutches an maintained can way out a lot of problems. Lots of people forget about changing their springs, I change mine before every start of a season and rebuild my clutches too. Also clean the valves and check there operation.

It's pretty hard to beat touring at kootenay pass, sledding we are still hitting rocks an buried logs. Hopefully the next few days fix that. Also a lot of alder bashing right now too. We just are not getting as much snow that north of us is having this year. But at least I can ride out from my...

I'd be checking the tolerance on the crank first before I'd do anything. There were a lot of 08 with out of spec cranks or close to out. You might be better off buying a short block.

You always can add some oil in your fuel tank or do a oil injection delete. I always add a bit in with my gas on my mod sled.

Learn the track chainsaw. Tip your machine on its side, start spinning your track, slowly stand the machine up right the track will dig it self in the snow tossing snow up to the cooler. Works awesome, been doing it for years. Just don't do it in the middle of the trail, get on the side.

Check out sled were racing http://2koolperformance.ca/sled_werx/index.htm really good with their pricing an it's in Canada too what is another bonus. They got the gnr braces.

What you doing as a proper warm up? On my p tek I would wait till I started to feel heat at the rear exchanger and I got over 12,000 Kms on the last motor with nothing done to it other than valve cleaning an ISO grease the pto and keeping the clutches in good shape. Someone did tell me once...

I have the 36 front an the flex edge track on my 08 mod an it's a world of difference playing on the mts in the trees. Even the girl friend says it was nicer, and her sled was a bone stock 08.

It is crazy how many don't wear it.

Hands down the best kill switch is the stock one. I run the switch upside down an always where my teather. Seen way to many sled re start upside down from not pulling the teather/key. I hate where doo put the start switch.

Another maintenance tip drain the old gas out and put fresh stuff in. Even if you put stabilizer in, just not worth it to burn down a piston or worse for what a fresh tank of fuel cost. I won't fire up any sled at my shop without fresh fuel in it.

What year of sled? Clutching does help a lot, but if you add in some gearing with clutching its a full wake up. Two best changes you can do IMO. DJ does make a good kit, as do many others.

I have over 25000 km's on my c3 belt drive on my 860 mod sled. Got it after blowing up two case an a few chains. It was more for piece of mind, rather blow a belt than another chain case again or bending another drive axle. And yes it was set up right, both myself an my mechanic think it was...

What brand of shock is in the easy ride you got? Pending what it is would depend where I would send it.

I wouldn't buy anything from terra alps. They have ripped off too many people an even people that makes some off his parts with his name on it. Just bad business.

I don't think belt drive is more trouble, I've broke a few chains an cases. The one nice thing about belt drive is you blow a belt toss the spare on an keep riding, can't do that with a regular chain case.

I got rsi risers on one sled an Cfr's on another. I think the Cfr's are a nicer product.

Skegpro you have pretty much answered your own question, if you rode it that long that hot the fluid went out your over flow. If your over heating chainsaw the track into the snow an toss snow on top of the cooler but leave your sled running for a bit so the coolant can circulate threw the motor...

Still looking for someone to ride with this Saturday that knows revy good or better than me.

I got one from a sp summit