Recently cleaned clutches and belt. How do you properly check the rpm? While doing a hill climb or just in a straight line. Does it matter? How long do hold it to try and get the rpms up. clickers are at 3 riding in valemount
Never hitting 7900rpm
- Thread starter uglyfugly
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slededjr
Active VIP Member
You want your max rpm while loaded the hardest. For example if you are on clicker 4 in the steep and deep and hitting 7900-8000, you'll probably only need clicker 2 for on the trail. That's the great thing about tea clickers. Make sure belt isn't too lose or it won't shift properly and cause you to not rev. If it is, try #4 and see how it revs.
MK4TDI
Active VIP Member
Yes sir, full load while climbing as slededjr said. My first trip out west when my XM was new I couldn't get more than 7700 sometimes 7800 regardless of clicker.
When I got home I had a look at the rave valves and found that the positioning sensor bolts and backed out a bit. I tightened those back up so the sensor was seated properly. Hadn't problem making the correct rpm after that.
Belt deflection is also important. Rule of thumb there is the bottom "valley" of the ribs on-the-top of the belt should be level with the top/outside of the secondary sheeves.
I would say after about 5-7 seconds in a hard pull/full load with consistent snow would give you an accurate reading of where your rpms are.
If your track is really tight it may have an impact on the rpms, but that is a bit of a stretch.
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When I got home I had a look at the rave valves and found that the positioning sensor bolts and backed out a bit. I tightened those back up so the sensor was seated properly. Hadn't problem making the correct rpm after that.
Belt deflection is also important. Rule of thumb there is the bottom "valley" of the ribs on-the-top of the belt should be level with the top/outside of the secondary sheeves.
I would say after about 5-7 seconds in a hard pull/full load with consistent snow would give you an accurate reading of where your rpms are.
If your track is really tight it may have an impact on the rpms, but that is a bit of a stretch.
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Summitizer
Active VIP Member
Play with your clickers and I always change out my primary spring every year. They do sag....good luck
slededjr
Active VIP Member
Arms are prone to sticking on pins also. Take out and polish the gold coating off of the pins. She'll be mint.
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treeboy
Active VIP Member
Clean clutches an maintained can way out a lot of problems. Lots of people forget about changing their springs, I change mine before every start of a season and rebuild my clutches too. Also clean the valves and check there operation.
MK4TDI
Active VIP Member
Few days later but here it is.
Spring are an excellent idea too, I usually do mine every 700 miles. Or at the beginning of every season.
And those rave valves can get pretty gummed up too. Took mine apart after the dealer charged me $250 to clean/test the raves to find this.
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PS94
Active VIP Member
How many KMS on them gooey raves?
MK4TDI
Active VIP Member
Be about 2000 miles on the sled, but the dealer was allegedly in there 250 miles before that to clean them.
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Caper11
Active VIP Member
Belt looks low in the secondary. Plus when was the last time the primary had a overhaul? 2000miles it time for a maintenance kit if it hasn't had one.
If your intakes are plugged with snow you will loose rpm.
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If your intakes are plugged with snow you will loose rpm.
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