I decided to do this because I like to modify stuff, especially when I can save myself some cash. I picked up a '13 XM last yr after a few years away from sledding and I've only ridden it locally ( last year ) so unfortunately I don't have a ride report or much basis of comparison yet, but I'll have a chance to compare to stock next week in McBride!! Can't wait.
First you need to remove the hood ( youtube if you havent done it before ) so you can see what youre up against. Now slide the hood back on and picture the post being ahead by 2". It seems like a lot, I almost stopped there. Nobody likes a coward, so I pressed on. Grab the heat gun and start warming up the plastic. This took me at least 20 mins with the gun, starting slowly and finally holding the thing almost against the plastic. I used a piece of pipe to press down the warm plastic where you figure the steering post will line up. Test fit and continue to mould it as required.
Now, the only other DIY I could find had a guy adding his brackets to the outside of the existing brackets, but I was thinking it would be hard to get the plastice to line up after because of where those 2 allen bolts go on the dash. So, I decided I could put the brackets up the inside. You need to re-route the harness from in front of the steering post to behind it.
You will use the forward factory hole as the rear hole for the post support block. But as you see, You need to make some room for the brackets you build.
This is what the brackets I built look like. Vise, hammer, drill, grinder. Keep in mind you need to fit the plastics back on so you can't leave too much extra material.
Slip the bushing out of the block and cut it down by the width of both your new brackets. I just pressed the plastic block against the grinder to make the profile I wanted to allow the new bracket. Be careful not to take too much off and go right through.
At first I figured I could keep the middle part of this piece intact, but it didn't work. Doesnt really matter in the end.
Test fit. You need an extra bolt to go through one of the holes, and make a spacer for it so you can tighten it up without crushing anything.
Side View. You will want to leave a little less material forward of the front bolt. The gauges end up right against mine.
Now you just need to cut out and shape the console to accomodate the new post position.
Another view.
Good luck! Remember to run the cables etc nicely so they have room to move.
First you need to remove the hood ( youtube if you havent done it before ) so you can see what youre up against. Now slide the hood back on and picture the post being ahead by 2". It seems like a lot, I almost stopped there. Nobody likes a coward, so I pressed on. Grab the heat gun and start warming up the plastic. This took me at least 20 mins with the gun, starting slowly and finally holding the thing almost against the plastic. I used a piece of pipe to press down the warm plastic where you figure the steering post will line up. Test fit and continue to mould it as required.
Now, the only other DIY I could find had a guy adding his brackets to the outside of the existing brackets, but I was thinking it would be hard to get the plastice to line up after because of where those 2 allen bolts go on the dash. So, I decided I could put the brackets up the inside. You need to re-route the harness from in front of the steering post to behind it.
You will use the forward factory hole as the rear hole for the post support block. But as you see, You need to make some room for the brackets you build.
This is what the brackets I built look like. Vise, hammer, drill, grinder. Keep in mind you need to fit the plastics back on so you can't leave too much extra material.
Slip the bushing out of the block and cut it down by the width of both your new brackets. I just pressed the plastic block against the grinder to make the profile I wanted to allow the new bracket. Be careful not to take too much off and go right through.
At first I figured I could keep the middle part of this piece intact, but it didn't work. Doesnt really matter in the end.
Test fit. You need an extra bolt to go through one of the holes, and make a spacer for it so you can tighten it up without crushing anything.
Side View. You will want to leave a little less material forward of the front bolt. The gauges end up right against mine.
Now you just need to cut out and shape the console to accomodate the new post position.
Another view.
Good luck! Remember to run the cables etc nicely so they have room to move.
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I'm going to borrow your idea, great pics!��
