Xm fuel line problem
- Thread starter Caper11
- Start date
teeroy
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someone posted that it has happened with a pull start too. so it must be an issue with both
Summiteer
Active VIP Member
too bad all that chit is plastic. probably not much left for evidence...... driveshaft clamp doesn't seem quite so serious...... 
Crappy deal Tyson.
Crappy deal Tyson.
snopro
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Summiteer
Active VIP Member
Chitty, that many more to fix.
teeroy
Active VIP Member
and what was the difference you saw, the fuel pump nipple on some? what created the clearance that others don't have?
snopro
Active VIP Member
I think it is the oetiker clamp and the direction it is sitting on the hose. I personally think my sled is a candidate for a fix. Lol.
Yeah all that's left is a couple pieces of the rear suspension and the block but it looks cracked. I'm not supposed to touch it until a fire investigator sees it and it was smothered by a snowbank so you can't see much now
- Thread starter
- #129
Caper11
Active VIP Member
Wow shitty!! But I'm curious how this happened, I've been around a sled that broke its fuel line, how did this happen in the garage? I'm not judging just curious.
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teeroy
Active VIP Member
read on....
- Thread starter
- #131
Caper11
Active VIP Member
Opps looks like I missed a page. I have a photo of another xm in flames I was wondering on the ignition source.
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teeroy
Active VIP Member
me too. gotta be something almost red hot to make gasoline vapours combust, or a spark...
Circled-Mistake
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Heres the research I have done on two sleds that we have currently in our stable.... BOTH are 2013 XM 800 etecs with electric... the on ly difference is MINE (VIN 228) has a recoil added in as well (Which does nothing IMO on saving the fuel line whatsoever...)
Heres my vin
Heres a pic to give you an idea on how large the tip of my "Special measuring device" is...
Heres a pic of my "Special measuring device" with an attempt to show you the distance between the backside of the oil tank and the OITKER CLAMP final crimp that is made due to the crimping process on the hose... By the picture I only have around 4mm MAX room between tank and clamp... BTW the Fuel line fitting does have about 3mm movement in and out on the return nipple, this is normal and mine upon time of picture was pushed all the way toward FUEL TANK... IF it was pulled out TOWARD OIL TANK I would have less than 2mm Clearance....
Here is a pic of the distance between the shall we call it "Fuel Sender Unit Assembly" and the backside of the oil tank in a different orientation..... still not much more than 10mm MAX room of allowable movement IF there was any....
Here is the final pic that I have taken... This one shows the distance between the FRONT WALL of the FUEL TANK and the REAR WALL of the OIL TANK..... 40mm or 4cm MAX room allowed... This pic was given just to show you all how much room there is total from tank to tank... next post will have pics of the next snowmobile I researched....
Stay tuned.....
Heres my vin
Heres a pic to give you an idea on how large the tip of my "Special measuring device" is...
Heres a pic of my "Special measuring device" with an attempt to show you the distance between the backside of the oil tank and the OITKER CLAMP final crimp that is made due to the crimping process on the hose... By the picture I only have around 4mm MAX room between tank and clamp... BTW the Fuel line fitting does have about 3mm movement in and out on the return nipple, this is normal and mine upon time of picture was pushed all the way toward FUEL TANK... IF it was pulled out TOWARD OIL TANK I would have less than 2mm Clearance....
Here is a pic of the distance between the shall we call it "Fuel Sender Unit Assembly" and the backside of the oil tank in a different orientation..... still not much more than 10mm MAX room of allowable movement IF there was any....
Here is the final pic that I have taken... This one shows the distance between the FRONT WALL of the FUEL TANK and the REAR WALL of the OIL TANK..... 40mm or 4cm MAX room allowed... This pic was given just to show you all how much room there is total from tank to tank... next post will have pics of the next snowmobile I researched....Stay tuned.....
LBZ
Active VIP Member
I do it the same way out of the old Powerstroke LOL!
Probably wouldn't doo it if it was in my lifted dmax though-that could spell disaster! Plus the carbides are hard on the tailgate!
LBZ
Active VIP Member
Awesome pics. Thanks!!Heres the research I have done on two sleds that we have currently in our stable.... BOTH are 2013 XM 800 etecs with electric... the on ly difference is MINE (VIN 228) has a recoil added in as well (Which does nothing IMO on saving the fuel line whatsoever...)
View attachment 147322Heres my vin
View attachment 147323Heres a pic to give you an idea on how large the tip of my "Special measuring device" is...
View attachment 147324Heres a pic of my "Special measuring device" with an attempt to show you the distance between the backside of the oil tank and the OITKER CLAMP final crimp that is made due to the crimping process on the hose... By the picture I only have around 4mm MAX room between tank and clamp... BTW the Fuel line fitting does have about 3mm movement in and out on the return nipple, this is normal and mine upon time of picture was pushed all the way toward FUEL TANK... IF it was pulled out TOWARD OIL TANK I would have less than 2mm Clearance....
View attachment 147325Here is a pic of the distance between the shall we call it "Fuel Sender Unit Assembly" and the backside of the oil tank in a different orientation..... still not much more than 10mm MAX room of allowable movement IF there was any....
View attachment 147326Here is the final pic that I have taken... This one shows the distance between the FRONT WALL of the FUEL TANK and the REAR WALL of the OIL TANK..... 40mm or 4cm MAX room allowed... This pic was given just to show you all how much room there is total from tank to tank... next post will have pics of the next snowmobile I researched....
Stay tuned.....
My VIN ends in 283. I'm gonna have a look next time I have it out of the truck and see what the orientation of my clamp is. It is a pull start only unit.
I'd like to see a pic of a 2012 and how it's set-up. Like Maxwell said, this wasn't a problem on the '12's.
Circled-Mistake
Active VIP Member
Heres the VIN of another sled in our Stable.... NOTICE that there is only 67 NUMBERS difference in the vin.... Keep this in mind as you continue to look at the pics....
Heres a pic to give you an idea on how large the tip of my "Special measuring device" is...
NOW Notice the LARGE difference in Clearance between the OITKER clamp final crimp and the REAR WALL of the OIL TANK.... Hard to see but I would be safe to say that there is AT LEAST 4mm MORE CLEARANCE on this sled than mine.... This pic shows the "Special Measuring Device" cleanly and easily fitting between the OIL TANK and the OITKER CLAMP final crimp, whereas on my sled the "Special Measuring Device" wouldn't even fit in between the Clamp and the wall of the tank.... AGAIN this fitting is pushed all the way towards the FUEL TANK...
Here is a pic of the distance between the shall we call it "Fuel Sender Unit Assembly" and the backside of the oil tank in a different orientation.....With this pic you can see a DRAMATIC DIFFERENCE in the CLEARANCE.. Almost DOUBLE what the first sled had...... Notice too in leau-of all this fuel line shennanigans we installed half of a sponge Hockey puck between the "Fuel Sender Unit Assembly" and the OIL TANK, possibly creating a cushion for future movement if there is any..... BUT IF you also notice that the Wall of the FUEL TANK itself is actually CONCAVED, whereas on the first sled the tank was BULGED outwards toward the OIL TANK, taking up much needed room for the fittings... And no I do not credit the sponge Hockey Puck for that, yes maybe it moved the tank a bit but NO WAY did it make the tank deform like it is.... I myself think its a molding issue from the Factory that has made the tank, whether its over-pressurizing the tanks on the Blow-Mold I do not know.... BUT I do know that I want the ROOM and CLEARANCE that this sled has!!!!!!!!
Here is the last pic for the post... This one AGAIN shows a 4mm PLUS CLEARANCE GAIN between the wall of the FUEL TANK and the OIL TANK..... Take note of the FUEL SENDER ASSEMBLY NUT, and how it is angled inward TOWARD the FUEL TANK on the lower end of the nut... SHOWING the deep CONCAVE that is present in the tank..... Not that it matters but this could very well be affecting the accuracy of the fuel level gauge... Not that I'm trying to bring up more issues but it could be affected.....BTW I will mention that the FIRST SLED HAS E-START AND RECOIL, THE SECOND SLED HAS E-START ONLY..... Food for thought the RECOIL CUP DOES NOTHING.....
I decided to take these pics and share them with the Snow and Mud nation because I was wanting to find an answer as to what needs to be done... Here is the list....
1) OITKER clamp on RETURN LINE on FUEL SENDER ASSEMBLY needs to be relocated and "Clocked" so the final crimp bulge is facing outwards towards the side panel versus facing the OIL TANK, GREATLY ADVANCING the clearance...
2)QUALITY CONTROL OF THE FUEL TANK MOLDING PROCESS!!!!! This is the major factor in my OPINION... After taking 30+ pictures and looking over them, taking measurements in as many spots as I can, this I think is the main culprit..... The molding process has to be checked out, the Process of Plastic welding the FUEL SENDER ASSEMBLY has to be cleaner (not sticking so far out of the tank, more of a FLUSH,FLATTER finish) and the general cleanliness of the build.....
When all is said and done, BRP NEEDS TO FIX THE ISSUE AND REPAIR OR RESEARCH A FIX FOR THE ONES OUT THERE WITH THE ISSUES PRESENT!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I know my sled will not move unless a remedy has been offered as a product recall...
Why should I have to modify, possibly void warranties, just because of poor quality control??? Shouldn't be up to the general public to fix what now has been deemed a SEVERE issue that needs to be remedied ASAP!!!!
I AM AND ALWAYS WILL BE A DOO FAN, in no way am I trying to stain the company, I am just taking it into my own hands to make my point of view seen, and make it as EASY AS POSSIBLE for others to see as well.....
Hope this helps out......
Cheers and thanks for viewing....
Comment as you choose, no-one else wanted to show pics of the issue, just burning sleds and fuel pissing out everywhere, lets show and solve the problem before that happens..... MUCH MORE EFFICIENT!!!!!
teeroy
Active VIP Member
but that's a spark, they contain quite a bit of juice, anywhere from 5,000 volts to 50,000 volts just from static electricity like they show in the video. you almost have to heat metal to the point it is red hot before it will ignite gasoline fumes. I've never seen a two stroke exhaust get red hot like a 4 stroke, the headpipe on my 450x will glow red. with a stock insulated exhaust system I just can't see it getting hot enough to start a fire, maybe in the lean midrange if that still exists and it sprays on the joint between the pipe and can, but something is doing it fo sho...
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teeroy
Active VIP Member
tru dat....mine ripped the tailgate cap off after a few times of doing that.
teeroy
Active VIP Member
Awesome detective work Circled Mistake, very nicely done! I think you have nailed it square on the head with your diagnosis.
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