Badass69
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Or you end up with a mess like that.
This is why you change your oil and do regular maintenance kids......
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Or you end up with a mess like that.
muzbomb
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What is that from and WHY!!!!!
pipes
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yikes. the Guys on Truck U would suggest adding some of that magic ch!t in a bottle to clean this up. Some how I don't think that would work,
deucesdeuces
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Got Sluge?
xsyourride
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Ya and the dealer tells me to go 12,000km before changing my oil on my new truck on the first oil change!!
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Badass69
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That engine pictured above though... Yeah. It's seized which makes sense when all the oil in it is the consistency of jello. I am going to take apart the bottom end when I get a second and see how destroyed the crank is..... and my guess the block. The cylinders look really good actually with zero ridge and no funny wear but I am thinking the seizing is at least one main spinning in which case that block is probably trash. Maybe it was just rod bearings that let go.. hard to say. It had around 260000 km on it supposedly...... and saw what.... maybe one oil change in that time frame I am guessing. Just lost oil pressure and locked up one day...lol.
For $100 it was a great deal though. The heads and intake manifold on it are worth at least 4 times that much and that is all I bought it for anyway.
For $100 it was a great deal though. The heads and intake manifold on it are worth at least 4 times that much and that is all I bought it for anyway.
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snopro
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5000 kms for me for my truck and SUV. Dad always told me an oil change is cheaper than a motor job. I'm same with my farm equipment. 100 hours instead of 250. To much dust and the diesel now is crap.
AreWeThereYet
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You guys doing mileage are basing an oil change interval on frame and wear components- u-joints, brakes, etc. I base my oil changes off engine HOURS, 150-200hours and I change oil and filter and send in an oil sample. You could idle 2hrs a day that's not being accounted for in mileage.
teeroy
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2 "premium advertiser" spots on this page....so fawking annoying. RK must be buying a new sled
GYMBRAT
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LOL, I know of a Bodybuilding board that makes a TON on their advertising and the 4 owners drive Bentleys! haha no BS.
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Bogger
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teeroy
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lexy
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Pawel
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"Think with your dipstick Jimmy" method should of been used here lol
Antifreeze seeping into the oil will cause the oil to thicken and destroy the bearings. Had that happen to a Grand Am bout 7 years ago(oil sample indicated antifreeze). Had to replace the whole transmission my Kenworth last year because the oil cooler started leaking antifreeze into the tranny. Shop said every load bearing surface inside was pitted and nothing was salvagable but the case, OUCH!
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Badass69
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No glycol present in this one. I am well versed with milk shakes...... My girlfriends current car was that way due to the previous owner neglecting to change intake gaskets. Common GM 3.1/3.4/3.8 and 4.3/5.0/5.7 Vortec thing... cheap ass plastic intake gaskets that allow the rubber impregnation to break away from the carrier and cause a massive leak.
LS engines have dry intake manifolds and this ones head gaskets were also fine( multi layer steel on these). Cylinder heads are perfect almost..... even the guides and valves show minimal wear. Stainless exhaust valves and steel intakes in this particular setup of the 243 casting. I still haven't touched the bottom end cause I just haven't had time.
LS engines have dry intake manifolds and this ones head gaskets were also fine( multi layer steel on these). Cylinder heads are perfect almost..... even the guides and valves show minimal wear. Stainless exhaust valves and steel intakes in this particular setup of the 243 casting. I still haven't touched the bottom end cause I just haven't had time.
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KawisakiRider
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jpgmtech
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Looks familiar! We have had a rash of Gen IV 5.3's fail in the last year. All can be traced to lube issues. My theory is that cold climate operation, particularly condensation, is not computed well enough in the oil life monitor algorithm. We get lots of brown sludge buildup with some black in the affected engines.
Yours definitely looks like severe lack of maintenance, it's the only way you would get that much black sludge develop.
Otherwise, the LS engine is probably the best domestic V8 engine built!
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Badass69
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Yup, by far easiest to build and make ridiculous power with especially with some boost. An iron block and crank can take around 1000 hp reliably... Even the stock LS2 style rods will hold together to somewhere up there too.
And it's funny..... this engine was considered utterly worthless because..... it was a 4.8 ( LY2 from an 07 GMT900). Odd considering that both the 243/799 cathedral is quite popular as is the 87 mm intake manifold that every GMT900 4.8 and 5.3 engine now have, lol. It's only a good enough setup with a junk cam to be rated at 395 HP on the Trailblazer SS 6.0 liter LS2 and all. Oh well, makes for cheap parts for me. Not that I need any of it anymore really as I have decided to just turbocharge the LQ4 in my truck instead.
And it's funny..... this engine was considered utterly worthless because..... it was a 4.8 ( LY2 from an 07 GMT900). Odd considering that both the 243/799 cathedral is quite popular as is the 87 mm intake manifold that every GMT900 4.8 and 5.3 engine now have, lol. It's only a good enough setup with a junk cam to be rated at 395 HP on the Trailblazer SS 6.0 liter LS2 and all. Oh well, makes for cheap parts for me. Not that I need any of it anymore really as I have decided to just turbocharge the LQ4 in my truck instead.
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