T3 stock suspension tuning

Luke The Drifter

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After my first ride this year, I'm starting to think my suspension needs some love. As much as I'd love to have a full Fox, Elka, or Raptor shock setup, I'm not about to dump 4k into a sled thats worth maybe 7k on a good day. So with that said, what have you guys found works for a stock suspension setup? Currently I'm 195lbs, probably 220-230lbs in full gear. I'll admit that I'm a little ignorant when it comes to suspension tuning, simply because I thought the stock setup was "good enough" and I haven't played with it a whole lot. When I first got my T3 new, I found it was trenching horribly, ended up having to turn the rear springs up to #5 on the blocks and pulling the limiter strap in one hole. I'm starting to think that my springs are sagged out since I had major issues with trenching yesterday on the mountain. I'm looking to get a set of the fatboy springs with a set of the teflon spacers (who sells those on here btw?) My T3 currently has 2000kms on it, not much compared to most but its still a 5y/o sled on original springs.

So with that said, list your suspension settings for the conditions what you found works or didn't work?
 

kingcat162

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After my first ride this year, I'm starting to think my suspension needs some love. As much as I'd love to have a full Fox, Elka, or Raptor shock setup, I'm not about to dump 4k into a sled thats worth maybe 7k on a good day. So with that said, what have you guys found works for a stock suspension setup? Currently I'm 195lbs, probably 220-230lbs in full gear. I'll admit that I'm a little ignorant when it comes to suspension tuning, simply because I thought the stock setup was "good enough" and I haven't played with it a whole lot. When I first got my T3 new, I found it was trenching horribly, ended up having to turn the rear springs up to #5 on the blocks and pulling the limiter strap in one hole. I'm starting to think that my springs are sagged out since I had major issues with trenching yesterday on the mountain. I'm looking to get a set of the fatboy springs with a set of the teflon spacers (who sells those on here btw?) My T3 currently has 2000kms on it, not much compared to most but its still a 5y/o sled on original springs.

So with that said, list your suspension settings for the conditions what you found works or didn't work?
Alot of it can be clutching and gearing too - I wasn't a fan of the stock anything on the sled so I changed everything now it's awesome - I would do the Fatboy springs torsion spacers and get the quick release sway bar disconnect play with clutching a little bit and gear it down a bit from stock
 

skegpro

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After my first ride this year, I'm starting to think my suspension needs some love. As much as I'd love to have a full Fox, Elka, or Raptor shock setup, I'm not about to dump 4k into a sled thats worth maybe 7k on a good day. So with that said, what have you guys found works for a stock suspension setup? Currently I'm 195lbs, probably 220-230lbs in full gear. I'll admit that I'm a little ignorant when it comes to suspension tuning, simply because I thought the stock setup was "good enough" and I haven't played with it a whole lot. When I first got my T3 new, I found it was trenching horribly, ended up having to turn the rear springs up to #5 on the blocks and pulling the limiter strap in one hole. I'm starting to think that my springs are sagged out since I had major issues with trenching yesterday on the mountain. I'm looking to get a set of the fatboy springs with a set of the teflon spacers (who sells those on here btw?) My T3 currently has 2000kms on it, not much compared to most but its still a 5y/o sled on original springs.

So with that said, list your suspension settings for the conditions what you found works or didn't work?
Best upgrade for a t3 is the torsion spring delete and rear shock.

Carbon sled make one with a fox float.

Redline makes one with a raptor.

And there are a few others.

It was a night and day difference for me.

Some guys like those torsion spring bushing's and the fat boy spring outta the tundra.
 

gofast89

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I run a ‘15 154 x that I was able to turn into a 154 t3 on the cheap side. I run stock suspension and brackets. Front skid shock spring loosened right off so I can wiggle the spring by hand sitting flat on the shop floor. Rear springs are set at #2. Limiter strap tightened up 1 hole if I remember right. Sway bar in place and front shocks set at 2

I am about the same weight as you and I have stock gearing with some clutching changes and this set up got rid of my trenching issue and allows the machine to lift well
Sled has 5000km and I am now looking at replacing front shocks to something aftermarket since I cant seem to keep my front left from going dead. Be the second one now in that mileage
 

Jsymes

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Torsion spring delete kit from Z bros made a world of difference on my G4 last year, running it again this year. Way stiffer and no sag. Helped a lot with trenching and made it easier to hop around on a side hill. Its fairly reasonable price wise and comes with basic to advance shocks; whichever you choose.
 
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Luke The Drifter

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Thanks for the info guys. I do know that my clutches need to be rebuilt. I'm currently toying with the idea of going to a shop like specialty and getting some pieces from them or if I should keep the stock setup in it and rebuild it that way. What gearing were you running?
 

Jsymes

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Thanks for the info guys. I do know that my clutches need to be rebuilt. I'm currently toying with the idea of going to a shop like specialty and getting some pieces from them or if I should keep the stock setup in it and rebuild it that way. What gearing were you running?
I wouldn't touch the gearing
 

Luke The Drifter

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Fair enough. I’ll start with the springs and spacers with the clutch rebuild. I don’t want to make to make too many changes and have the sled not run/ride worth a crap. Been there done that with a mod sled, spent more time farting around trying to tune it than I did riding for a season.
 

Jsymes

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Definitely a good place to start. I'm sure you'll be surprised with what that does alone.
 
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Luke The Drifter

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Definitely a good place to start. I'm sure you'll be surprised with what that does alone.

Well that plan got put to the back burner real quick. I went to pull my primary bolt out and I’m pretty sure the crankshaft threads came with it... I put my borescope down there and I have some threads left but I won’t know for sure until I get a puller and pop the primary off.
 

MK4TDI

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Well that plan got put to the back burner real quick. I went to pull my primary bolt out and I’m pretty sure the crankshaft threads came with it... I put my borescope down there and I have some threads left but I won’t know for sure until I get a puller and pop the primary off.
The puller doesnt thread into the crank, it threads into the clutch. I've had that happen before, used the water trick to pop the clutch off then used a thread chaser with lots of cutting oil on crank, havent had an issue in 2800 miles.
 

Luke The Drifter

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The puller doesnt thread into the crank, it threads into the clutch. I've had that happen before, used the water trick to pop the clutch off then used a thread chaser with lots of cutting oil on crank, havent had an issue in 2800 miles.

Gotcha. I’ve only used the water method as well with no issues. Either way I have to get the primary off to inspect the crank snub and replace the bolt. The threads on it are toast.
 

MK4TDI

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Gotcha. I’ve only used the water method as well with no issues. Either way I have to get the primary off to inspect the crank snub and replace the bolt. The threads on it are toast.
Yessir. Mine did the same thing. Not sure if it over tightened it somehow with my torque wrench or I forgot to clean the water out of the end of the crank snub from the last time I pulled the clutch and it froze.

Either way made a mess of the bolt and threads in the crank, to the point I thought I was going to be buying a new crank... But I was able to save them with a set up stubby thread chasers and a lot of patience.

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Luke The Drifter

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Yessir. Mine did the same thing. Not sure if it over tightened it somehow with my torque wrench or I forgot to clean the water out of the end of the crank snub from the last time I pulled the clutch and it froze.

Either way made a mess of the bolt and threads in the crank, to the point I thought I was going to be buying a new crank... But I was able to save them with a set up stubby thread chasers and a lot of patience.

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Mine is pretty much identical to yours lol. Either I over-tightened the bolt or the threads weren't clean enough when I installed it last time. I'll be picking up a set of the thread chasers here today.
 

deaner

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Honestly at your size I would start with the bushings first before you put big boy springs in. You will be amazed at how much difference they make. If thats not enough, then do the springs. Another thing I have found is the doo suspension is really sensitive to not being greased enough. Works MUCH better when everything is greased often and moving freely
 

Luke The Drifter

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Thanks for the spring bushings Troy. I got them installed the other night and its pretty wild how much stiffer the skid is now.

Also managed to salvage my the threads in my crankshaft with a thread chaser. The primary is rebuilt now, just have to get the secondary apart.
 

timmus

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Hey I sent u a pm a few days ago haven't heard back not sure if you received or just the holidays
 

146ev

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Torsion spring delete kit from Z bros made a world of difference on my G4 last year, running it again this year. Way stiffer and no sag. Helped a lot with trenching and made it easier to hop around on a side hill. Its fairly reasonable price wise and comes with basic to advance shocks; whichever you choose.

I'm looking to add this set up to my sled that began life as a 146 SP and now is a 154 but still with the garbage SP shocks when you did the delete did you also replace the front track shock with one of theirs as well?
 
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