T3 Clutching Mods

lilduke

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I thought the stock clutching was great until I rode my XM with roosterbuilt clutching. I have never been a big fan of "kits", but Paul knows his stuff and is just a great guy. If you dont like it he will make it right. Why buy a bunch of parts and time trying things out when you can just buy a kit that works.

I here you Deaner and I might even go that route. But not everyone(me) is looking for the same thing and I have lots of time to test chit out in the mountains:beer:
 

deaner

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I here you Deaner and I might even go that route. But not everyone(me) is looking for the same thing and I have lots of time to test chit out in the mountains:beer:

The nice thing about Paul is he will tailor the kit to what you need. In the end you dont end up paying any more than you would for the parts anyways. And I dont have any special arrangement with him. Pay full retail like everyone else. Just like giving credit to good companies.
 

lilduke

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The nice thing about Paul is he will tailor the kit to what you need. In the end you dont end up paying any more than you would for the parts anyways. And I dont have any special arrangement with him. Pay full retail like everyone else. Just like giving credit to good companies.

Thanks for your input and I will definitely keep RB in mind:beer:
 

800HMX

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The etec pulls really strong off the bottom and you really need to load it up until it won't pull rpm. 412 ramps won't work with the stock helix (stall the shift). Can you find a set of 415 ramps and a violet secondary spring. Maybe a 130/360 primary (160/360 -purple/purple I think with 413 ramps). Something like 15g to start. These are common parts to try to keep the stock helix (expensive part). The best would be to find a QR-2 helix from DJ. Big angle off the start and super shallow at shift out.
 

800HMX

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The Dynamo Joe kit is very good and the best add on to the sled money can buy (shocks and skis too). I have ran, installed and tuned many of these kits back for at least 10 yrs. One key is the helix, with multiple angles to position the right helix angle with load/speed. A simple 40 straight angle just isn't good enough. Gearing the sled down too much helps with mechanical reduction but pushes the roller too far down the ramp.
 

800HMX

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I will be in Revy in a couple weeks. If there is any snow, you can take mine for a ride. Take a few good pulls and see what you think.
 

lilduke

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I will be in Revy in a couple weeks. If there is any snow, you can take mine for a ride. Take a few good pulls and see what you think.

That'd be great! And there will be plenty of snow:beer:
 

mountainsledmania

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I'm really happy with the RB, been running the kits for some time now, The things that I mentioned about the engine braking, and the track speed when cycling the throttle, is something that improved over the stock setup. Maintains rpm a lot better now with the different ramps offered in the kit.
Clutch temps are lower I can change my clickers without the need to wear gloves and I'm running 21/51 gearing.

Some guys I know that have the same sled are running lower gearing, depends on the size of the rider and track length.

I installed a RB BB kit in my brothers 872 and he's happier with the results over the team setup he was running.

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yea i have the team set up in my 872 rite now and im not impressed either, to change my clickers if i touch my primary it fawkin hot, and it seems like there more go go juice there then what clutching is giving me. thanx for the info dude.
 

bingo1010

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i have a joe kit (both springs and helix) in my 174 with the factory 438 ramps and it works good, definetly nice backshift, but i find i have a lot of heat in my clutches as well, and to me that means lost horsepower to the track. i have talked with joe lots and he has been very good to deal with so would recommend him as well. with that being said...i am the tinkering kind and am always looking for some more, i am pulling 19.5 gr of weight (clicker 3)at vale and mcbide elevations where joe says i should be a few grams less so i find this thread good as well. when i last talked to paul probably close to 2 months ago he said they were still working on their stuff for the t3. i guess i should give a call and see if they have it finalized.
 

800HMX

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i have a joe kit (both springs and helix) in my 174 with the factory 438 ramps and it works good, definetly nice backshift, but i find i have a lot of heat in my clutches as well, and to me that means lost horsepower to the track. i have talked with joe lots and he has been very good to deal with so would recommend him as well. with that being said...i am the tinkering kind and am always looking for some more, i am pulling 19.5 gr of weight (clicker 3)at vale and mcbide elevations where joe says i should be a few grams less so i find this thread good as well. when i last talked to paul probably close to 2 months ago he said they were still working on their stuff for the t3. i guess i should give a call and see if they have it finalized.

I think Joe and Paul are both stand up guys. I have worked with Joe for the past several years so that's where I am coming from. A challenge with the etec is the massive torque out of the hole. If you don't load the sled up enough you will over rev, the sled will pull timing back and just loss of performance. Joe built his kits to use as many of the stock parts as possible (keep costs down). Ask Joe if he still has some of his BB ramps available. They might work better than the 438's. I think the old 441 ramps with his helix might be better than the 438 ramps as well. The 438 ramps are a compromise to work with the 40 helix, soft secondary spring and the 3" track. The clutching setup between a ptec and etec plus the 3" track are all different because the track load is much different between the 3" and the 2.5 or 2.25 track. The etec makes so much power down low (almost BB like - or more than most BB's actually).

Joe (Paul too) have been building kits for 3" 174/163 sleds for years now. Just because you reach rpm with the stock setup and don't burn off belts, doesn't mean in any way you are getting the most out of the clutching. My simple 2013 ptec is properly clutched (only performance mod) and will absolutely run away from any stock etec. It's just clutching. The differences are really apparent when someone who can actually "ride" gets on the sled vs me! The
 

Caper11

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I think Joe and Paul are both stand up guys. I have worked with Joe for the past several years so that's where I am coming from. A challenge with the etec is the massive torque out of the hole. If you don't load the sled up enough you will over rev, the sled will pull timing back and just loss of performance. Joe built his kits to use as many of the stock parts as possible (keep costs down). Ask Joe if he still has some of his BB ramps available. They might work better than the 438's. I think the old 441 ramps with his helix might be better than the 438 ramps as well. The 438 ramps are a compromise to work with the 40 helix, soft secondary spring and the 3" track. The clutching setup between a ptec and etec plus the 3" track are all different because the track load is much different between the 3" and the 2.5 or 2.25 track. The etec makes so much power down low (almost BB like - or more than most BB's actually).

Joe (Paul too) have been building kits for 3" 174/163 sleds for years now. Just because you reach rpm with the stock setup and don't burn off belts, doesn't mean in any way you are getting the most out of the clutching. My simple 2013 ptec is properly clutched (only performance mod) and will absolutely run away from any stock etec. It's just clutching. The differences are really apparent when someone who can actually "ride" gets on the sled vs me! The

Agreed!! Well said. I miss my 800r.


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