T3 Clutching Mods

[lilduke]

Well I have quite a few miles on my T3 and am thinking about rebuilding the clutches and maybe changing it up a bit.

Its working pretty good,, but Id like it to get up to 8000rpm a lil quicker.


I am wondering what other have done? and why exactly you did these mods?? and what did it accomplish???


Thanks Dan

 

[mountainsledmania]

give deano at mad motorsports a call.... I think he's got it figured out as far as clutching and gearing.

 

[lilduke]

give deano at mad motorsports a call.... I think he's got it figured out as far as clutching and gearing.

No thanks, ill clutch it myself. Id like to hear what other are doing though.

Cheers Dan

 

[straight-a-way]

I added 2 grams per pin and changed to 160 380 pro spring pulls better same start as original 160 350 try it

 

[Caper11]

What's your current setup Dan ?


And did you mean you want to come up with your own setup or install clutch kit components?


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[lilduke]

What's your current setup Dan ?


And did you mean you want to come up with your own setup or install clutch kit components?


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Stock Clutching right now. Not sure what I want to do yet. I just don't want to here "get this kit" or "talk to this guy"

I want to here what people are doing to their clutches exactly and why.

ie What Spring, what Ramps, what weights,what helix, maybe you did an after market or race primary? Shock wave helix?

Just want to hear what people are doing and why and in the most technical detail possible.

I would love to here from Dynamo Joe or Deano or any other clutching wizards.

Thanks Dan

 

[Caper11]

Other than the slow spooling to max rpm is there anything else your wanting out of a clutch setup that the stock setup is not doing for you? Ie poor track speed,rpm recovery when cycling the throttle. Engine braking?


I have used different gearing pinweight and primary spring this year alone, last year I played with different ramps.





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[lilduke]

Other than the slow spooling to max rpm is there anything else your wanting out of a clutch setup that the stock setup is not doing for you? Ie poor track speed,rpm recovery when cycling the throttle. Engine braking?


I have used different gearing pinweight and primary spring this year alone, last year I played with different ramps.





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Faster spooling is the only thing I'm looking for. But I'm more just interested in what other people are trying on their T3's and what Its doing for them.

 

[oler1234]

2014 with 3"here and it moves pretty good

130/290 spring
stock pin weight
dj mtn ramps
stock secondary setup
20/51 gearing
clicker 1 at 6500-7500ft

2013 setup in our group with 3"
130/350 spring
414 ramps
1mm oversize rollers and no pin weight
stock secondary setup
21/51 gearing
clicker 2 at 6500ft

 

[mountainsledmania]

2014 with 3"here and it moves pretty good

130/290 spring
stock pin weight
dj mtn ramps
stock secondary setup
20/51 gearing
clicker 1 at 6500-7500ft

2013 setup in our group with 3"
130/350 spring
414 ramps
1mm oversize rollers and no pin weight
stock secondary setup
21/51 gearing
clicker 2 at 6500ft

does anyone here know what going from a 51 (which is stock believe) to a 45 ? or say 49 ?

 

[oler1234]

You will gain more top end changing to a smaller bottom sprocket. So that snap you feel down in low rpm and lower mph will be less. You will also increase the dog leg in the chain, going to a 45 you will most definitely need a new chain. 49 you won't and 47 is a maybe.

 

[Caper11]

does anyone here know what going from a 51 (which is stock believe) to a 45 ? or say 49 ?

Keeping the top gear as a constant, changing your bottom gear from a bigger 51, to a 49 makes sled go faster, and you lose alittle bottom end grunt, and possibly track speed staying power. The idea is to keep your desired gear ratio and use the largest diameter gear set. For example 21/51= 2.43/1, and 20/49= 2.45/1. The 21/51 gear set is the more desirable of the two.

You can change gearing as long as the current clutching will work with it.


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[mountainsledmania]

Keeping the top gear as a constant, changing your bottom gear from a bigger 51, to a 49 makes sled go faster, and you lose alittle bottom end grunt, and possibly track speed staying power. The idea is to keep your desired gear ratio and use the largest diameter gear set. For example 21/51= 2.43/1, and 20/49= 2.45/1. The 21/51 gear set is the more desirable of the two.

You can change gearing as long as the current clutching will work with it.


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how does ur roosterbuilt kit work? what top gear comes with their kit?

 

[Caper11]

how does ur roosterbuilt kit work? what top gear comes with their kit?

I'm really happy with the RB, been running the kits for some time now, The things that I mentioned about the engine braking, and the track speed when cycling the throttle, is something that improved over the stock setup. Maintains rpm a lot better now with the different ramps offered in the kit.
Clutch temps are lower I can change my clickers without the need to wear gloves and I'm running 21/51 gearing.

Some guys I know that have the same sled are running lower gearing, depends on the size of the rider and track length.

I installed a RB BB kit in my brothers 872 and he's happier with the results over the team setup he was running.





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[Caper11]

Faster spooling is the only thing I'm looking for. But I'm more just interested in what other people are trying on their T3's and what Its doing for them.

Dan you have wondering about this faster spooling rpm's, the t3 163 I rode spooled the rpm's pretty nice to 8000 but I was only in 1ft of pow.

When you say this, do you mean on and off the throttle?

Is this something you notice all the time, or only when you're in the deep stuff?

I remember you asking about gearing awhile back but can't recall what way you geared?




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[lilduke]

Dan you have wondering about this faster spooling rpm's, the t3 163 I rode spooled the rpm's pretty nice to 8000 but I was only in 1ft of pow.

When you say this, do you mean on and off the throttle?

Is this something you notice all the time, or only when you're in the deep stuff?

I remember you asking about gearing awhile back but can't recall what way you geared?




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Yeah basically when Im off/on the throttle I want it to get to 8000RPM a bit quicker.
It works fine as is, but I want it better.

I'm geared 19/51 for the deep snow, but I might gear back up to 21/51 for more top speed in the snow we have now.

Thanks for the responses BTW. This isn't supposed to be just about me either, think of this as a T3 clutching thread.


Cheers Dan

 

[800HMX]

The load on the sled changes with many factors and engine power changes mostly with elevation. To get the rpm up quick, you need to increase the initial angle of the helix. To hold rpm while climbing, reduced the helix angle. Spring force (initial and final) plus ramp angle and pin weight all contribute to shifting characteristics -so many combinations. What helix is in the t3 (straight 40?). As the helix is the load sensing component of the system, the helix angle needs to reflect the changing load conditions throughout the shift curve. There is a lot to be gained by clutching this sled properly.

 

[Caper11]

Yeah basically when Im off/on the throttle I want it to get to 8000RPM a bit quicker.
It works fine as is, but I want it better.

I'm geared 19/51 for the deep snow, but I might gear back up to 21/51 for more top speed in the snow we have now.

Thanks for the responses BTW. This isn't supposed to be just about me either, think of this as a T3 clutching thread.


Cheers Dan

I don't have a t3 but that may change after my ckmp trip next weekend with the 16's lol I'm happy to help tho.

I found there was room for improvement with the stock t3 clutching. Found the backshiftng lazy, on and off the throttle, even on my 13 that basically had the same clutching with different ramps. I didn't ride it stock for long before it got changed. I thought the stock clutching worked very well if you punched it and did not let off but get off the throttle and get into it again, well you know.


I'm not a fan of the the st40 helix and the sec spring that doo offers. The 438 ramp feels buzzy to me at altitude. With the t3 setup

For me I like a multi angle and a stiffer sec spring to quicken the backshift, In the secondary. My thumb is now connected to the track. It sound like you are looking for the same.


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[bingo1010]

What ramps does rooster send out in their kits?

 

[deaner]

I thought the stock clutching was great until I rode my XM with roosterbuilt clutching. I have never been a big fan of "kits", but Paul knows his stuff and is just a great guy. If you dont like it he will make it right. Why buy a bunch of parts and time trying things out when you can just buy a kit that works.