Stronger cat chain?

RXN

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Is there an aftermarket or stronger/better chain that I can go to?
Reason I'm asking, and maybe I've got my information mixed up,

I just picked up a 2019 M8000.
I was told these come with an Aluminum gear. The reason for the Aluminum gear is because of a slight "shaft wobble/twist" the Aluminum takes the wear. Which as in one of the other threads on here shows, Aluminum gobs from the chain case.

So I ordered a steel gear. But from what I understand, running the steel gear transfers the forces to the chain, which leads to breaking chains.

Easiest solution for either set up is really to pop the case cover yearly, and do a good inspection. But should I miss something, or neglect looking, Is there a better aftermarket chain i guy could switch to?

thanks
 

snochuk

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Is there an aftermarket or stronger/better chain that I can go to?
Reason I'm asking, and maybe I've got my information mixed up,

I just picked up a 2019 M8000.
I was told these come with an Aluminum gear. The reason for the Aluminum gear is because of a slight "shaft wobble/twist" the Aluminum takes the wear. Which as in one of the other threads on here shows, Aluminum gobs from the chain case.

So I ordered a steel gear. But from what I understand, running the steel gear transfers the forces to the chain, which leads to breaking chains.

Easiest solution for either set up is really to pop the case cover yearly, and do a good inspection. But should I miss something, or neglect looking, Is there a better aftermarket chain i guy could switch to?

thanks

For maintenance ease I say you nailed it.
Makes sense on the aluminum gear.

I am lazy so put on a belt drive.
 
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tmo1620

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I’ve had real good luck with Venom products, never had an issue with their chain
 

Clode

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popping hyvo chains? lots of guys running the steel gears this is the first i hear of it
 

pfi572

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Hyvo chain usually doesn’t give much for trouble? If that’s what Cat has ?
 

Clode

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mine has a hyvo chain, I left the factory tensioner in also, I suspect people are putting the manual tensioner in and setting it to tight, just a thought
 

snochuk

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You have the belt drive on your sled?

Yes I put a belt drive on it.
First trip to the mountains coming up this weekend.
Test ran almost two tanks of gas though it in 2.5-3' snow in "hilly" terrain but the real test is 5 days away.
No issues but want some real snow and terrain.
Now back to the best non rubber chain.
 

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snowcannon

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Hyvo chain usually doesn’t give much for trouble? If that’s what Cat has ?
I read on arcticchat that unlike older manual tensioners which were set 1/2 turn loose from finger tight, on a proclimb it should be 1.5 turns loose.
 

pfi572

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I read on arcticchat that unlike older manual tensioners which were set 1/2 turn loose from finger tight, on a proclimb it should be 1.5 turns loose.

That seems loose . IMO.
On other sleds I have always just went finger tight and move secondary back and forth to make sure it wasn’t to loose.
 

Allseasons

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When I installed the drop and roll, I went back to aluminum bottom gear. I’ve changed oil already after 7 days of riding. Wasn’t that bad.
Also, as far as I’m aware, there isn’t a stronger chain out there. I tried to order an upgrade, but it wasn’t available for the longer chain case yet.
I don’t know guys, I like maintenance. After every multi day trip, my hood comes off, check wiring, frame pieces, coolant level and hoses, power valves come out and cleaned. Pre checks daily of my clutch and belt after every ride. I “hope”, to never be that guy under the chopper, from a lack of maintenance standpoint. A little bit of effort in a heated shop, could save my life in the backcountry. Long story short, crack the chaincase open yearly. Its a great excuse to piss around on your sled and drink a few beers
 

tmo1620

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When I installed the drop and roll, I went back to aluminum bottom gear. I’ve changed oil already after 7 days of riding. Wasn’t that bad.
Also, as far as I’m aware, there isn’t a stronger chain out there. I tried to order an upgrade, but it wasn’t available for the longer chain case yet.
I don’t know guys, I like maintenance. After every multi day trip, my hood comes off, check wiring, frame pieces, coolant level and hoses, power valves come out and cleaned. Pre checks daily of my clutch and belt after every ride. I “hope”, to never be that guy under the chopper, from a lack of maintenance standpoint. A little bit of effort in a heated shop, could save my life in the backcountry. Long story short, crack the chaincase open yearly. Its a great excuse to piss around on your sled and drink a few beers

I’d still rather go belt drive, drink the beers and not get silver oil all over the damn place. No worries on cracking the case on hard hit either. Those aluminum gears are garbage, mine was completely shot after 1800 km, so having to change that out every year or more plus 2-3 oil changes and checks a year on it..... not sure how much your time is worth but after a year I pretty much payed for that belt drive, also in turn get a proper oil tank and better tree riding performance as the throttle response is much better
 

mountianguy

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I am pretty sure they used the aluminum gear to reduce rotating weight. When i installed the manual tensioner i was told not to tighten it to tight, backed off one turn. As far as a stronger chain there was a 15 wide compared to the standard 13, not sure if it still available.
 
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Allseasons

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It is, but for 17 and older, non Mtn cat. Nothing for the longer chain case as of last October
 

bgraff1

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TKI belt drive and forget about it. no oil to change, no gears/chain to wear out, no grenading the chain case if anything fails and of course the benefit of lighter weight and less rotating mass. with a belt drive your buying efficiency, reliability and peace of mind. wont have a sled without one
 
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